Engine turns over but will not crank
SOURCE: Chevy truck running rough 150,000 miles
Find out why the engine light is coming on, it is the info u probably need to fix the running rough problem. Most auto parts stores will read the codes stored in your trucks computer for free, write them down, and ask what they mean and how to correct the problem. If u need more info, return to this site w/ codes for further help.
SOURCE: 2005 chevy silverado won;t start.
i had the same problem, and it turned out the coil pack was moulding inside wich stopped the spark all together, i ended up changing my coil pack and putting on new wires because the ends connected to the coil were very corroded and that cures the not running part just fine
enjoy
SOURCE: 1999 1500 Chevy Silverado - microchip for anti-theft?
Document ID# 803013
1999 Chevrolet Chevy K Silverado - 4WD
Security Lamp Illuminated on the IP, Engine Stalls, No Start, DTC B2960
(Security System Sensor Data Incorrect but Valid) Set (Inspect and
Repair Cause of DTC B2960)
1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup and Utility Models (Silverado,
Sierra, Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL)
This bulletin is being revised to add information on inspecting for
electrical intermittent conditions and important connector C201
tightening steps. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-08-56-002
(Section 08 -- Body and Accessories).
Condition
Some customers may comment on the following conditions. These symptoms
may be intermittent.
• Security lamp illuminates while driving. The Security lamp may be
On or Off when the customer brings the vehicle to the service facility.
• The engine cranks but will not start and the Security lamp is
flashing.
• The engine starts then stalls and the Security lamp is flashing.
Cause
Condition(s) may be due to an incorrect Passlock™ sensor voltage
received by the body control module (BCM) from the Passlock™ sensor due
to the following conditions. Most intermittent conditions are caused by
faulty electrical connections or wiring.
• A 7 ohm variation in the sensor ground circuit wiring, circuit
1057
• A 100 ohm variation in the Passlock™ sensor signal wiring circuit,
circuit 1836
Inspect for the following items:
• Broken wiring inside the insulation.
• A poor connection between the male and female terminal at the
connector. Refer to Testing for Proper Terminal Contact under Testing
for Intermittent and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems for the specific
procedure.
• A poor terminal to wire connection. Some conditions that fall
under this description include poor crimps, poor solder joints, crimping
over the wire insulation instead of the wire itself, and corrosion in
the wire to terminal contact area.
• Wire insulation that is rubbed through. This causes an
intermittent short as the bare area touches other wiring or parts of the
vehicle.
• A poor connection between the male and female terminal at a
connector. This poor connection may be the result of contamination or
deformation.
- Contamination may be caused by the connector halves being
improperly connected. A missing or damaged connector seal, damage to the
connector itself, or exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt can
also cause contamination. Contamination, usually in the underhood or
underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion, causing an open
circuit or intermittently open circuit.
• Separate the connector halves.
• Visually inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination may result in a white or green build-up within the
connector body or between terminals. This causes high terminal
resistance, intermittent contact, or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced
in its entirety including the terminals, the seals, and the connector
body.
- Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector
terminal without the proper adapter, improperly joining the connector
halves, or repeatedly separating and joining the connector halves.
Deformation, usually to the female terminal connector tang, can result
in poor terminal contact causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
Using an equivalent male terminal from the J 38125-B, test that the
retention force is significantly different between an good terminal and a
suspect terminal. Replace the female terminal in question.
Correction
Have any of the following components had service recently?
• The BCM
• The ignition lock cylinder case assembly
• The PCM/VCM
If any of the above components have been replaced, the Programming Theft
Deterrent System Components procedure must be performed before any
diagnostic procedures are performed.
To assist in diagnosis, the following steps are provided.
Does the engine start? If not, use the Engine Cranks but Does Not Run
diagnostic information in the Engine Controls sub-section of the
applicable Service Manual.
Important:
• The Security telltale on the message center is controlled by the
vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) system and the content theft deterrent
(CTD) system. The Security telltale is controlled by the BCM through the
Class 2 data line.
• The VTD system portion of the BCM controls the Security telltale
when the ignition switch is in the On position. The VTD system uses the
Security telltale as a malfunction indicator.
• The CTD system portion of the BCM controls the Security telltale
when the ignition switch is in the Off position. The CTD system uses the
Security telltale to identify system status.
Observe the Security indicator lamp in the instrument panel.
Remove the key from the lock cylinder.
- Security indicator should be Flashing when the door is open.
- Security indicator should be Off when all the doors are closed.
- If the Security indicator does not come On or go Off correctly,
refer to the Content Theft Deterrent System diagnostic and repair
information in the applicable Service Manual.
With the Doors closed, place the key in the lock cylinder and turn to
the Run position. Observe the Security indicator lamp.
- Lamp is On and does not go Off however, the engine starts. This
indicates that the VTD system detected a fault when the engine was
running.
- Lamp flashes On and Off. This indicates a problem has been
detected by the VTD (Passlock™) system and the engine may not start this
key cycle, a current condition.
Important: You must diagnose the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in the
order specified in the DTC table shown below. Failure to do so may
result in one or more of the following conditions:
• Extended diagnostic time
• Incorrect diagnosis
• Incorrect parts replacement
DTC
Diagnostic Procedure
Module
Important: Before you use this table, diagnose P0601, P0602, P0604, and
P0606. Refer to Diagnostic System Check - Theft Deterrent.
PXXXX Other PCM DTCs
Refer to the following procedures:
• Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls in Engine Controls -
4.3L
• Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls in Engine Controls -
4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0
• DTC P0192 in Engine Controls - 6.6L
• Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls in Engine Controls -
8.1L
If none of the above items are true, proceed with the following steps:
Install seat covers.
Connect the scan tool to the diagnostic link connector (DLC).
Enter scan tool diagnostics.
Select the model year of the vehicle.
Select light truck.
Select F1, (Body).
Select "C" or "K" for Series.
Select F0, Body Control Module.
Select F0, (Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)).
Select F0, (DTC information).
Select F0, (Current DTC).
Record on the repair order any current DTCs displayed. If none, skip the
next step.
Is a current B2960 DTC displayed? If no, the condition is not present
with this key cycle. Continue to the next step.
Select Exit.
Select F1, (History DTC).
Are any history DTCs other than B2960 present? If so, diagnose those
DTCs first using the appropriate service information, otherwise
continue.
Select Exit.
Select Exit.
Select F1, Data Display.
Select F6, Security.
Cycle the key to the OFF position and wait 20 seconds.
Slowly turn the key to the RUN position. Be careful not to turn the key
into the START position.
Observe the following values:
- Passlock™ Data Voltage should be 5.0 volts.
- Passlock™ State should be Normal.
- Passlock™ Code should be Open.
Rotate the key to the START position, and observe the following again:
- Passlock™ Data Voltage should be less than 5.0 volts. Passlock™
Data Voltage should remain steady and not fluctuate. The test vehicle
used for this diagnostic procedure had a voltage value of 2.49 volts.
The vehicle being worked on may be either higher or lower than this
value. The key is that it has to be less than 5.0 volts.
- Passlock™ State should be "Monitor Passlock™".
- Passlock™ Code should be Valid Code.
If no trouble is found and the customer has experienced one of the
symptoms or the code is a history DTC, the most likely cause is the VTD
(Passlock™) wiring, specifically the wires from the VTD (Passlock™)
sensor to the BCM.
SOURCE: 1999 chevy silverado service 4 wheel drive light
I had a similar problem with
the Service 4 Wheel Drive light which came on intermittently then became more
consistent in the message center display. It would go into 4 wheel drive if the
message center did not display the Service 4 Wheel Drive message in the message
center, but not when the message was displayed. I found the transfer case
switch module in the dash was defective, and it has been working with no other
problems for three years.
SOURCE: 1999 silverado 4.3 cranks but
First check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module
The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.
That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.
If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.
To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.
To replace the distributor follow this procedure;
The ignition timing is not adjusted with a timing light or with the engine running, and to set the ignition timing follow these procedures.
There is a mark or notch on the distributor housing that the rotor should be pointing to when the engine is on top dead center. This "static" timing is all that matters and the computer will be able to control the timing as long as the ignition rotor is in that position when the engine is at top dead center.
Removal;
1. With the engine at top dead center.
2. Look under the distributor cap and find where the number one terminal runs under the distributor cap, and where that position on the distributor cap corresponds with the distributor housing, and it should match up to a mark or a notch on the distributor housing indicating the number one position.
3. With the engine on top dead center the ignition rotor should be pointing to the number one mark or notch that is on the distributor housing, Then make a reference mark of the position that the ignition rotor is pointing to (out on the engine or firewall) and the more precise you mark the position, the easier the installation of the new distributor will be. This will be reference mark #1.
4. Remove the distributor lock down bolt, (the lock down clamp will most likely be attached to the distributor and if so it should not be removed from the distributor) then slowly lift up on the distributor about three inches and note the direction that the ignition rotor turns, and when the ignition rotor stops turning then mark the position that the ignition rotor is pointing to (out on the engine or firewall) and then lift the distributor striaght up and out, and remove the gasket or any left over gasket material from the intake manifold. The more precise you mark the position the easier it will be to install the new distributor and an assistant might be helpful. This will be reference mark #2
Once the distributor has been removed it is important that the engine does not get cranked over by the starter or the crankshaft turned at all, or the reference marks will become useless.
Installation;
Be sure that the new distributor is complete with a new module and that there is a new gasket in place on the distributor.
1. Lower the distributor with gasket down into the distrbutor well and align the ignition rotor with the #2 reference mark and when the distributor gear engages the drive gear on the camshaft then the ignition rotor should turn to the #1 reference mark as the distributor sets all the way back down flush on the intake manifold.
2. Install and tighten the lock down bolt, and If the distributor is properly installed then the ignition rotor should be pointing to the #1 reference mark and the #1 position on the distributor housing with the engine on top dead center.
Replace the distributor cap and connect the spark plug wires, and see if the engine will start, if the engine does start and the check engine light does not come on (assuming that it was not on before) then the distributor is properly installed and there is no further timing requirements.
Let me know if you require any further assistance.
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