91 tracker warms up then wont start. Starter doesn't make any noise, no clicking, nothing. Acts like no power to starter. Starts fine after it cools down.
READ THIS ALL BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING
NOTE: some vehicles have the starter relay and starter mounted together as 1 unit. Sometimes the starter relay and starter are seperate. When I refer to "relay" it could also mean the starter and relay as 1 unit.
Note: "starter switch" is not to be confused with "key switch", although sometimes they are all one unit. The starter switch is usually mounted on the steering column and actuated by a metal rod. On units that are all one unit, the keyswitch/starter switch (both one unit) will have to be replaced. (this is a rare problem, so don't get worried just yet)
1. Check battery voltage, should be between 12.5-14.5 volts. if low voltage replace or charge battery, and try to start car, if it don't crank with new or charged battery, move on.
2. Check connections on the starter relay, even the small one coming from your starter switch. if loose or corroded, clean with a brush and reconnect them. Try to start your car. Did it start? if not, Move on
3. Well now we know the connections aren't the problem. How about a click? did you hear one? If a click is heard, go to #4, if nothing is heard, go to #5
4. Well at least the relay is clicking, but nothing else is going on. The relay is working, so the starter must be bad. Replace the starter and start your car!
5. Humm, connections aren't the problem, maybe the relay is bad, replace your relay with a new one. Move on
6. Now we have a new relay, with clean and tight connections. Start your car. Does it start? If yes, then HORRAY! we fixed it. Does it click? If so then goto #7, If it don't click, then goto #8
7. So here we have a new relay, with good connections that will click when trying to start the car, but nothing else happens. Starter is faulty, replace the starter, and off you go, see ya!
8. So here we have a new relay, with good connections, but it still won't click when we try to start our car. This means that your starter switch is faulty. Replace starter switch and try to start your car. Vroom! finally done with this car problem!
List of shortcuts: if you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the relay and apply +12v to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. You can actually hook up a starter button this way. If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken.
OK thanks for the info. However as you probably already know most of those solutions aren't relevant to my problem so I will ask another question. Which one of those solutions relates to a problem that is caused by temperature fluctuation? Since my problem only happens when the vehicle is warmed up/ hot. Thanks.
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SOURCE: 1997 Chevy Cavalier intermittent starting
I had the exact same problem on my 1998 Chevrolet 1500 c/k pickup. I also tried a new starter motor and solenoid assembly, but to no avail.
After weeks of searching for the problem, I found that corrosion had built up between the car battery terminals and the power cables extended from the car battery to the starter motor. I'm not sure if this is your problem, but it's worth a try. Also, check all other electrical connections, because these types of intermittent problems are often electrical.
SOURCE: POWER TO STARTER WILL NOT
The clicking noise is solonid which should be energising the starter and it isn't.
SOURCE: starter licking, but starter good..car wont turn over
the alternator is probably shot you would have to get it replaced
SOURCE: 1991 chevy lumina 3.1 starts cold but when warm shuts off
replace the ignition control module.
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