1997 hyandai accent gt clutch problem

that is normal if the gear synchro dogs ( teeth) are in line in the box
problems concerning a clutch are
slashing gears when trying to engage first or reverse with the pedal to the floor ---needs bleeding
slipping when the clutch pedal is released--- slipping clutch from the pressure not being released ---problem in master cylinder
reverse gear is the only gear not synchronised so even with the clutch depressed it is possible sometimes that it will not go into gear unless you let the clutch up to move the gears in the box then attempt to re-engage reverse

engaging?
you meant dis-engage im sure.
pedal up is engaged,
pedal at floor dis-engages it.
my guess, is the clutch drags unless i push the clutch pedal 100%
to the floor.
1: bad cable is 90% cause. non last this long.
2: no free play is way too loose.
3: broken lever on the pedal top. caused by #1

all fail modes covered here.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch-on-kick.html

Well, it would shift easily with engine off, because the transmission input shaft is not turning. Engine running and clutch engaging good, the input shaft would again be stationary and allow smooth shifting.
What you have to determine is if the clutch disc or pressure plate is bad (a new clutch is needed), or if the pedal hydraulic system has a malfunction. When you push the pedal down, a rod from the top of pedal pushes into the clutch master cylinder bolted to the firewall under the hood. This cylinder has a reservoir filled with brake fluid. When the rod forces fluid from the clutch master down a steel line and into the clutch slave cylinder down on the transmission bell housing, the hydraulic pressure forces a plunger from the slave cylinder to extend and push the clutch fork lever a small amount, enough to force the clutch release bearing (aka throw-out bearing) against the pressure plate. This relieves pressure on the clutch disc and input shaft becomes stationary for easy shifting.

Your pedal height may be adjustable by a stopper bolt at top of pedal. You would have to check the specification for your car. Most important that the pedal has about a half inch free travel before clutch begins to engage. You need that free play to ensure the release bearing (the throw-out bearing) is not touching the fingers on the pressure plate when not engaged. If it always is touching, it will be rolling around constantly and will go out prematurely.
Your new clutch will allow gear engagement sooner as the clutch pedal is released. I mean gears will engage just as pedal is lifting off from floor. You should notice that difference-the old clutch would have taken longer pedal travel from floor before releasing.

Fit 4th gear Release hand brakes on strait floor with open hood and push the car back and Forward to see if the engine engage your gear box if is not your clutch is back to front.if engage press the clutch pedal to make release of the gear,notes mechanical clutch cable or hydraulic system. check Release bearing arm position.

have you replaced your fly wheel and release bearing when you changed your clutch disc?

if yes, then replace your transmission fluid.
also, if you know hot to adjust your clutch release, adjust it. adjust it in a way that you need to draw back your clutch pedal a little higher for the clutch to complete engage.

here are some ways to adjust your clutch.

1. for clutch using clutch cable. open your hood, locate for the transmision, and there you can see a cable that connects the transmision and the clutch pedal. loosen in up a little.
2. for hydrovac clutch with self correcting features. just pull your clutch pedal away from the floor for a few seconds and its done.
3. for hyrovac without self correction. manually adjust the push rod (metal rod that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch master)

I assume it is a cable operated clutch. If so the adjustment is tightened so that there is about 1/2 to 1" of pedal travel to clutch operation, provided the gears can be selected smoothly.

Hard shifting may be caused be the clutch not releasing properly.If you have a new clutch your problem might be caused by your hydraulic clutch release system.When stopped and idling you should be able to shift gears without grinding.Reverse grinding may indicate a clutch release problem.You should have some clutch pedal travel up from the floor before you feel it engaging.The oil fill check is either at the speedo or a plug at the axle shaft level.Be sure to use factory recommended fluid.Gear oil is not a proper fluid.

dear friend-you can bleed the clutch.im am sure this will solve you problem

it could be your clutch master or slave cylinder needing replaced. you need to have both checked