At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
Good battery, good starter and solinoid, everything works with key in on position, when key is turned to start the ignition fuse (40 amp) blows and you can hear the solinoid click, the engine turns by hand. I believe I have a direct short somewhere. Any ideas?
Have you crossed the solenoid terminals and checked the starter for operation? may have the battery cable burnt thru to ground by the exhaust side of the motor..it happens if the cable is up against the block..
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
When you turn the key to the start position what's happens ? Nothing , do the lights dim ,dome light ? The starter doesn't engage an spin the engine ? Is the security light lit on the instrument cluster ? Anti-theft system problem may disable starter engagement . You say battery is good ? How do you know ? Headlamps shine bright ? Do you know how the starter circuit works ? Does it use a key start ?
Circuit Description (Key Start)
When the ignition switch is placed in the Start position, a discrete signal is supplied to the body control module (BCM) notifying it that the ignition is in the Start position. The BCM then sends a message to the engine control module (ECM) notifying it that CRANK has been requested. The ECM verifies that the transmission is in Park or Neutral. If it is, the ECM then supplies 12 volts to the control circuit of the crank relay. When this occurs, battery positive voltage is supplied through the switch side of the crank relay to the S terminal of the starter solenoid.
Have you tested the battery? You may have a bad starter solinoid.
Or a relay from ignition to the starter solinoid. And or bad connections to starter solinoid. The solinoid can be tested if the
battery is good, by a jumper from positive to the small terminal that controls the internals of the solinoid.
What you say does not make sense. Starter/solenoid works off the car, but only the solenoid works on the car? Is your ground wire from battery to engine loose? Both solenoid and starter use the same ground wire...?
Battery good, cables good, all connections clean and tight, no corrosion on battery terminals? Try to determine if click is from solenoid on the starter or starter relay. Turn the headlights on and watch them while someone turns the key to start. If they get dim, probably the starter-have it tested-even new ones are sometimes bad. If lights don't dim, you will need to check the start circuit. Check for power on the small wire to starter solenoid when key is held in start. If no power there, work back towards the ignition switch. Check the neutral safety switch-should have power in and power out when key held in crank. The ignition switch will have a start wire out of the switch going to the neutral safety switch. It should have power with key in start, the only time the start wire will have power. Post back with what you find-good luck.
This vehicle is equipped with a chipped ignition system.On your dash warning lights,when turn key into on position you'll notice a yellow key symbal, it should flash then go out. If it flashes then goes to solid on, it means the system does not recognize signal from key. This can be because of wrong key(original valet key will not start car) or key for whatever reason has been deprogrammed. Which can only be done by dealership unfortunately. If system is working(light does go out) then you need to look at possible brake switch sensor,park/neutral safety switch on shifter, and for signal at started when key turned to start position
If you have power in aux position(ex.)radio works but doesn't when you put the key in the start position,the ignition switch is bad,the contacts are warn out for starting/cranking&run positions,these are used everytime you start your car,but auxillary is ony used once in awhile(ex.)your sitting listening to music while waiting for someone to come,but if you do have radio in the run position,but no cranking/starting you could have a blown resistor on fire wall or fuse for ignition,or the starter has called it quits,good luck I don't know if the starter is clicking rapid or just one click or just no power not cranking or cranking a better description of everything that happens will make this alot easier
But those are ignition parts. If the car won't crank, there is a problem between the battery, ignition switch, and the starter. Try this, Darren: With key on, does your dash light up, gauges working and check engine light on? Turn key to start. Do you hear a click form the area of the starter? If you hear the starter solenoid click, and you know the battery is charged up good, then likely the starter is out, and needs to be taken off for testing or replacement. But that is assuming that the battery cables and their.connections are good and allowing full battery power to the starter. If you hear no click in start, turn the headlights on and watch their intensity while someone turns key to crank. If the lights dim noticeably and no cranking, then the starter is bad or needs testing. If the lights don't change intensity when key is at crank position, then possibly the starter solenoid is bad or the circuit from ignition switch to the starter solenoid is not allowing current to pass. Take off the small wire (brown, I think) from the starter solenoid and see if it has power when key is in crank position. If it has power, the starter has to come off-it or the solenoid is bad. If no power on the solenoid wire with key in crank, then the circuit from ignition switch to the solenoid will have to be checked. There are at least a couple of components in that path- one is the starter relay, another is the neutral safety switch (or clutch switch on manuals). Also if no power on the solenoid wire, check the 30 amp fuse in the power distribution center by the battery. It may be fuse # 10, at least it is on a '97 Jeep. Heck, check all your fuses while you're at it. Good luck.
had same problem just this week had good batt turned key no go what i found out is when you turn your key to start watch the dash clock if it dims out get a srewdriver tap solinoid on starter then try starting if this works then get under car with ignition off cross positive lug to small wire for some reason this seem,s to work havent had any more problems hope it help,s need more info get back to me
The problem is either the starter solinoid (located on fender near battery) or you are not getting power to the "s" terminal on the starter solinoid from the ignition switch. If you follow the positive battery cable from the battery you'll follow it to the solinoid. Remove the small wire from the terminal marked "s" on the solinoid and using a screwdriver jump from "s" terminal (not the wire) to where positive battery cable connects to solinoid. (with battery connected). If starter doesn't do anything the solinoid is bad. If starter cranks then you are not getting voltage from ignition switch through "s" terminal wire.
×