I have to replace the ac door actuator motor behind the ash tray

I replaced the blend door actuator (BDA)a couple of years ago. It is a challenging task, but if you are young with good eyesight, not too large, and patient, you can do it WITHOUT the enormous hassle of removing the console, which is a two man job. You need good illumination, perhaps a small mirror, possibly a camera to take some closeups of exactly how the BDA is attached, and a flexible shaft nut driver. Not too bad of a job, IF you study and plan the task with some care. I would never recommend removing the console. That is just asking for trouble and frustration, and your car will be out of commission until the console is PROPERLY connected. Good luck.

Hi Jim, I'm glad to help!

Jim, first you'll need to get the seats out of the way. Next remove the rear quarter panel. The blend door motor will be right in front of you mounted on the side of the Rear A/C Housing. It's been known to go bad. BUT, sometimes the door itself breaks, so you'll need to check that. But most importantly you'll need to make sure it's getting power and ground from the control unit because I have found is some cases it's not receiving power and ground to the motor. You can check the motor by applying power and ground from the battery to see if the motor is good. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Jim.

YOU HAVE A SWITCH OR A TILT ACTUATOR MOTOR PROBLEM. LINCOLNS HAVE 5 OR 6 ELECTRIC MOTORS MOUNTED ON THE UNDERSIDE OF EACH FRONT SEAT WHICH REQUIRES REMOVING THE SEAT TO INSPECT .THEIR ARE ALSO CABLES ATTATCHED TO THESE MOTORS SO LISTEN WHEN YOU HIT THE TILT SWITCH DO YOU HEAR A MOTOR NOISE? IF YOU DO THEN YOU MAY HAVE A BAD CABLE.

This sounds like the blend door which controls the temp is bad, this may be due to a bad actuator motor or the door is broken, the most common reason is the small actuator motor that moves the door is bad, let me try and enclose some pictures to help explain this.theres a heater box in the rear like the front but smaller it has ac core and a heatercore, theres a door in the middle, this door opens and closes allowing hot or cold air or both depending on the temp setting, the door is controlled by the actuator motor throught the hinge on the bottom of the door, sometimes due to the plastic design the knob on the hinge breaks and the door bangs as it tries to move and also will do the same banging when the motor is bad,


heres a picture of the actuator and also a picture diagram of the heater box. this is not hard to do, the rear seats will need to be removed to gain access to right rear panel, remove the panel and you will have full aceess to box, i have circled the actuator in the diagram to help you find it, sometimes if you remove the panel from the back door and the top there is enough room to replace the actuator but if its the door you will need to remove all. hope this is helpful.

Look ,behind the glove box,on top of the hac box,toward the center of the truck,it is a flat box,with a multiple wire plug in it,it is the temp door actuator motor,that turns as you select the cold,to hot selection,it may not be turning all the way for hot.You can remove this motor,and turn it,yourself to see,it is hard to do,because it is ressesed in the box.

For a 95 Chevy Silverado....I replaced the Blend Door Actuator on the passenger side. Just behind the slide out cup holder. Yo ucan acces easily by removing the ash tray piece and the glove box....Or just the glove box and work like hell to get a socket in a tight place.

There are 2 actuators....one controlling the (Mode and Temp 89018681) and the other the (Air Inlet 89018367). I called the dealer and the parts were 85-125. I got it From TBA Auto (local store) for 39.00. A 20 min job at most.

If I recall correctly the belt actually is mounted behind the interior trim panel. It 1 piece on a short wheel base & 2 piece on a long. You must remove both seats (2nd & 3rd row) to hah room to remove the trim panel . BE CAREFUL the get very brittle and snap if you pull the wrong way

I have a 1987 740 & the fuse box is located behind the ash tray in the center console. After removing the ash tray you can access the fuse box. Each fuse description, size, & location are listed on the back of the ash tray.  

"Blend door stuck and clicks on your 2003 Ford Explorer?\" FIRST BUY OEM BLEND DOOR MOTOR $57.00 + UP TOOLS NEEDED : PANEL TOOL OR FLAT BLADE SCREWDRIVER ,1/4 SOCETS 7 & 8MM ....1/4 HANDLE...1/4 SMALL EXTENTION...1/4 RATCHET NO NEED TO REMOVE WHOLE DASHBOARD!!! REMOVE TWO7MM SCREWS FROM THE BOTTOM OF STEERING PANEL & PRY AND REMOVE PANEL. NEXT REMOVE TWO 7MM SCREWS ON BLACK PLASTIC STRIP THAT YOU SEE AFTER REMOVING STEERING PANEL....PRY THIS STRIP OF PLASTIC OUT JUST A LITTLE AND CUT IN THE MIDDLE . NEXT REMOVE TWO 7MM SCREWS FROM AROUND TOP OF INSTRUMENT PANEL (BY GAUGES ) PRY PANEL STARTING FROM AROUND VENT ON LEFT BY DRIVERS DOOR ""THIS PANEL WILL STAY IN PLACE LOOSE... NO NEED TO REMOVE!"" NEXT YOU WILL SEE 0NE 7MM SCREW BY GEAR SELECTOR AREA.. BEHIND THE LOOSE PANEL REMOVE THIS SCREW.. ALSO IN SAME AREA BUT LOWER THERE IS ONE 7MM SCREW THAT NEEDS TO BE REMOVED THAT HOLDS LOWER DASH PAD ITS FOUND BEHIND LOWER CORNER OF DASH PAD.( LOWER DASH PAD GAS PEDAL AREA ) "DON'T"!!! REMOVE THE FOUR 10MM BOLTS!!!! IN SAME AREA NEXT REMOVE RADIO /AC CONTROL TRIM WITH THIN SCREW DRIVER OR PANEL TOOL IT HELD IN BY SIX CLIPS...NO NEED TO DISCONNET ANYTHING IT WILL STAY THERE HANGING!! NEXT REMOVE TWO CENTER CONSOLE LOWER LARGE PLASTIC CLIPS BY FLOOR MATS. NEXT UNDER SQUARE BLACK RUBBER AT CENTER CONSOLE REMOVE ONE SILVER SCREW. MOVE SEATS FOWARD AND REMOVE TWO 8MM SCREWS FROM SIDES OF CENTER CONSOLE FROM BACK SEAT. PRY CUP PANEL SECTION THAT WAS HELD DOWN BY SILVER SCREW ...PRY UP TOP HALF OF CONSOLE STARTING FROM SECTION WHERE ARMREST DOOR IS.. DISCONNECT LIGHTER PLUG AND REMOVE PANEL . NOW YOU WILL SEE SIX SCREWS STARTING FROM BELOW RADIO TRIM WORKING BACK TO ARMREST DOOR .REMOVE ALL SIX..THESE HOLD THE BOTTOM PORTION OF THE CONSOLE ALSO DISCONNET ONE BLACK PLUG AND PULL ALL THE WIRES CLIPPED DOWN...PULL BOTTOM PORTION OF CONSOLE TO BACK SEAT. PULL LOWER DASH PAD GIVE A NICE TUG.. IT SHOULD MOVE OUT A LITTLE ..DID YOU REMEMBER ONE SCREW BEHIND CORNER DASH..!.STARTING FROM AREA BY GAS PEDAL LOOK UP IN THIS AREA YOU WILL HAVE ENOUGH ROOM TO GET A LONG EXTENTION WITH AN 8MM SOCKET TO REMOVE 3 SCREWS HOLDING MOTOR TO BLACK PLASTIC SECTION.. REMOVE SCREWS DISCONNECT SMALL BLACK PLUG AND PULL MOTOR FROM SOCKET GOING TOWARD DRIVERS DOOR DIRECTION. ALIGN NEW MOTOR SHAFT WITH SOCKET TIP.......IF NEED BE..... YOU COULD PLUG MOTOR HARNESS INTO NEW MOTOR THEN TURN IGNITION ON AND MOVE HEATER/AC CONTROLS TO GET THE SHAFT LINED UP..DONT MOVE ANY OTHER WAY!!!!!! NOW PUT SHAFT INTO SOCKET MAKE SURE YOU CONNECTED THE PLUG IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY!! INSTALL 8MM SCREWS AND TRY IT OUT YOU SHOULD HAVE HEAT NOW NOW INSTALL EVERTHING BACK IN REVERSE ORDER