Replaced entire ignition still no spark 88 305 ci

If your D16Y8 engine was running and then stopped after you took off the spark plug wires and distributor cap, there could be a few possible causes for the engine not starting now.

• The timing may have been disturbed when you removed the distributor cap and wires, causing the engine to be out of timing. You should check the timing and make sure it's set correctly.
• The distributor rotor or cap may be damaged or worn, preventing spark from reaching the spark plugs. Replace the rotor and cap if necessary.
• The ignition module or coil may be faulty and not providing spark to the spark plugs. Check the ignition module and coil for any signs of damage or wear.
• The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) may be faulty and not providing the proper signal to the engine control module (ECM), preventing the engine from starting. Check the CKP sensor and wiring for any signs of damage or wear.
• The engine control module (ECM) may be damaged and not providing the proper signals to the ignition and fuel systems, preventing the engine from starting. In this case, the engine control module needs to be replaced.

It's also worth to mention that the tachometer gauge is not related to the engine starting, it's more of an indicator of the engine RPM, if the engine is not starting the tachometer won't work, so don't worry about it.
I recommend that you have a professional mechanic check your vehicle to determine the exact cause of the problem and make any necessary repairs.

retrace your steps, what didn't you do ? take your time, review your work, clear any trouble codes from your computer , are your connections good ? check each spark plug to see if your getting spark. if not,then the entire distributor assymbly may need replaced, check cap & rotor, are spark plugs good? if no spark, then no voltage is getting to plugs from distributor assembly, (power transistor, ignition coil, or camshaft position sensor.) is ignition switch recieving battery voltage ? is ECM recieving bat. voltage ? make sure all fuses are OK .every time you do something. dry out any moisture in dis cap/rotor. check ECMrelay, the goal here is to get SPARK to spark plugs, remember that ! keep it simple, one step @ a time. ( do you have a haynes repair manuel, they cover this problem, that way you can test these things as they present them. GET ONE ,NOW!

You have not run a OBD2 electronic engione control fault code test, get a code reader and do that first and don't replace anymore parts until that is done and you have the fault codes and have done the proper diagnostics for each code.

could be if the engine is not getting voltage from the ignition switch. take a test light and check for battery voltage at the coil and module when you turn the switch on.

check with an oscilloscope if the signal comming out of the ECM to the ignition coils is OK. You can see that way if the problem comes from the ECM or not.

Depending on which engine your car is equipped with; the following components could be at fault.

Crankshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor
ECM (Engine Control Module)
Distributor Cap or Rotor
Fouled Spark Plugs
Bad Plug Wires

If they haven't been replaced in the last 30K miles, I suggest you check and /or replace the the plugs and wires first.

If your engine is equipped with a distributor, check and/or replace the distributor cap and rotor if it hasn't been replaced in the last 30k miles.

If your engine is equipped with crank or cam sensors have them tested.

Check your fuses (ECM) and also recheck your wire leads to the coil. Your ICM (ignition control Module) may also be bad, it's located in your distributor under the rotor. You can have that tested also to make sure it's working 100%, there common to go bad from corrosion caused by condensation under the distributor cap.
Thank you for using Fixya and good luck.

If the engine won't start, perform a spark test as described earlier. This will narrow the problem area down considerably. If no spark occurs, check for the presence of normal battery voltage at the battery terminal (BAT) in the distributor cap. The ignition switch must be in the on position for this test. Either a voltmeter or a test light may be used for this test. Connect the test light wire to ground and the probe end at the BAT terminal at the distributor. If the light comes on, you have voltage to the distributor. If the light fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition primary wiring leading to the distributor. In this case, you will have to check wiring continuity back to the ignition switch using a test light. If there is battery voltage at the BAT terminal, but no spark at the plugs, then the problem lies within the distributor assembly.
If the trouble has been narrowed down to the units within the distributor, the following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with both high and low ranges should be used. These tests are made with the cap assembly removed. and the battery wire disconnected. If a tachometer is connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.

1. Connect a ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be less than 1 ohms.
2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect the ohmmeter between the rotor button and the TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance in both cases should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms. Be sure to test between the rotor button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step 1 and Step 2 are infinite.

I had the same problem recently but replacing the ignition Coil under the distributor (inside) solved the problem. Also replaced the distributor Cap and rotor at the same time.

it could be the ecm"computer" that can cause know spark and know gas at the same time.