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By putting the air on you increase the drag on the water pump and it starts to falter. Replace the water pump and re tension all the belts.By putting the air on you increase the drag on the water pump and it starts to falter. Replace the water pump and re tension all the belts.
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Have you verified that system has been "burped" of air? That the fans kick on? Check radiator hoses for kinks. You can try running without the thermostat to see if that helps and can identify if the thermostat could be a problem. You may need to check your coolant mixture too. Sounds like you have reduced flow or restriction in cooling (heat exchanger) as it runs fine at cooler temp but can't keep up when it gets warm. New parts don't always equal working fine parts.
This problem sounds like the aircompressor pully, the bearing is shot.
With the engine running and the air conditioner off there is a grinding noise, look at the compressor pully, does it wobble? Then turn on the air conditioner and the noise stops, look at the compressor pully again, the wobble stops? If so that's the problem.
Remove the serpentine belt and run the engine to see if the whine still exists. If the whine is gone, try moving the pullies by hand to feel what pully is rough or has a lot of play. Your issue with the heat is likely separate from the whine. You have air in the cooling system. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap. Fill the radiator to the top and run the engine until it gets to operating temp. The level in the radiator will drop, this is when you add more coolant and replace the cap. Make sure your overflow/resivoir bottle is half full with coolant.
You can remove the rad cap and run the engine ( do not remove cap when hot!! ) You should be able to see the coolant circulating in the rad. You can also remove a heater hose and hold upwards and start engine, if coolant flows out the pump is circulating. If all looks good at that point I would start to suspect a cylinder head gasket leak and / or cracked cylinder head. Hope this helps .. Good Luck
Unfortunately No, All of the Guages run straight into the Computer. If you bypass them you will have error codes out the Wazzu and lights on the Dash Constantly. Try a Salvage yard for a Replacement Guage Cluster.
Take a look at the belt see if it has cracks or worn grooves.. if it dose have it replaced. if it doesn't pull on the belt back and forth see if the tension pully is giving the belt tension( it supposed to be about 1/2 of an inche to an inch or try to turn the belt around to almost half way) if not replace the tensioner pully. if good check the free pully by starting the car and spary a bit of wd40 on the center of the pully if noise disappers replace the free pully. if not see ur local auto shop..
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