WHAT ARE THE CURCUIT WIRES AT PRIMARY IGNITION COIL IE... GROUND,HOT ECT. AND COLOR FOR A 2000 SUZUKI RM 80 MOTORCYCLE AND SAME QUESTION FOR 2000 YAMAHA YZ 125

If you take coil wire loose from distributor cap and hold close to engine ground, engine cranking, does a spark jump? If it does, make sure rotor turns when you crank it. The pink wire at the coil goes hot with key on, that is primary voltage, use a test light, is it hot? That voltage comes from ecm fuse1--15 amp, check voltage with key on.
If sensor issue, my first thought would be the crank sensor. Just my opinion.

Disconnect the ignition coil output wire at the distributor cap.
Connect a spark plug to the end of the ignition coil output wire which you just disconnected.
Connect a ground wire to the threaded portion of the spark plug.
Disconnect the ignition coil ground wire from the negative terminal on the coil (Green Wire).
Connect one end of a ground wire to the ignition coil negative terminal.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Tap the other end of the ignition coil ground wire jumper on an good grounding point (for example the battery negative terminal) and look for sparks at the spark plug that correspond to the frequency of your tapping of the ground wire.
If you have a good spark at the spark plug, the ignition coil is good.
If you don't get a good spark, check for approximately 12 VDC from the coil positive terminal (black wire) to ground with the ignition switch in the ON position. You should also get approximately 12 VDC from the coil negative terminal (Green wire) to ground
Ignition Coil Resistance Check

In addition to the test above, you may elect to perform an ignition coil resistance check as confirmation of the coil's condition.

Check the ignition coil primary coil resistance by connecting an ohmmeter between the positive (Black wire) and negative (Green wire) terminals on the coil. The resistance should be 0.4 to 0.6 ohms.
Check the ignition coil secondary coil resistance by connecting an ohmmeter between the coil output terminal and the ignition coil negative terminal. The resistance should be 5000 to 7200 ohms.

You may have a bad coil or bad ground or wire connection

Is this a GM vehicle? Which one, what is engine litre size?
How long since a tune-up? If no spark check plugs and plug wires--check cap and rotor. If it has a coil wire to distributor take it loose from distributor, hold close to engine ground, have helper crank while you watch for spark, if no spark, could coil wire or coil, Check primary voltage coil, usually goes hot with key on. The coil also needs a ground usually controlled by ignition module.

A long list of things. From fuses to ignition switch to ecu to security alarm and more.

Here is how to start looking: Turn the key to on. Do the dash gauges and warning lights and check engine light come on? Then power is getting to the switch and being sent out from it. Next, use a test light and check for power TO the coils and TO the injectors with key on. All four injectors use the same color power wire. My wiring diagram is poor quality, but it looks like a green wire or possibly a gray wire-remember same color power wire to all injectors-the other injector wire is a ground wire, and they are all different colors. Pull one injector connector off and check for power on one terminal with key on. And could do the same at the coil pack. With key on, the white wire with red stripe to the coils should have power-actually, the white wire is spliced and two white wires are shown going to coil pack-this is the primary current to the coils- is hot in run or start.

If no power to coil or injectors, here are the fuses to check: in the under hood fuse/relay block: ecu-10 amp fuse, Eng-15 amp fuse, and these maxi fuses: fuel inj-30 amp fuse, Main- 80 amp fuse, Ign-40 amp fuse. And one more- a designated Main fuse-15 amp fuse.
If these fuses are good, should have power going to injectors and the coil pack with key on. If the key is turning on the dash, some of those fuses are known good, but need to check all of those listed.

I will stop here, and wait for your reply. You get this far, you are on the way to diagnosing the problem.

do you have coil trigger on either wire to the coil? if so then apply 12 volts to the other wire to see if car will start.

p0355 is--- ignition coil E primary/secondary curcuit malfunction-- this indicates you have a bad coil or wiring to coil. have a good one !

First you should have a Haynes Manual for your specific car that's available at most parts stores. Since it states that your "Ignition Coil B primary or secondary circuit malfunction", then I would first measure the Coils Resistance which is listed in your Haynes Manual. If it comes up incorrectly for the values given, then replace the coil, if not, check the Z2 Circuit which is the Ground to your PCM or computer. It should be a 12 gauge wire, black & tan that's bolted to the Engine block for a corroded condition. This corrosion will throw multiple codes except for the PCM's Ground. In the Haynes Manual there is a wiring diagram of your PCM in the back that, if I'm wrong about the color of the wire, will give you the proper color.

"00 Buck"

Does the vehicle have coil on plug ignition or coilpack ? And it's not primary or secondary coil malfunctioning It's primary or secondary circuit . I'm assuming it has a coil pack because you say plug wires.
P0350 - Ignition Coil (Undetermined) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction Each ignition primary circuit is continuously monitored. The test fails when the PCM does not receive a valid IDM pulse signal from the ignition module (integrated in the PCM).

• Open or short in the Ignition START/RUN circuit.
• Open coil driver circuit.
• Coil driver circuit shorted to ground.
• Damaged coil.
• Damaged PCM.
• Coil driver circuit shorted to VPWR.

P0351 - Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction See the description for DTC P0350. See the possible causes for DTC P0350.
Pull the spark plugs out an look at them , check the gap ,if too wide replace them . If the spark plug gap gets too worn ,the spark won't jump the gap. It will find the least resistance path to ground ,and it will do it inside the coil . Going from the secondary circuit back to the primary coil an to ground through the PCM - engine computer . The PCM has transistors inside that open an close the primary side to ground ,this builds up a magnetic field around the secondary inducing high voltage spark . Well this can short out the transistor inside the PCM . Most of the time that's what these type codes mean . The PCM would need to be replaced an programmed . This can also damage the catalytic converter. Your best bet , take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop.

Here is what the shop manual says about it. without the car I won't try to tell you where your exact problem is located.

P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary/ Secondary Circuit Malfunction Detailed Description Each ignition primary circuit is continuously monitored. The test fails when the PCM does not receive a valid IDM pulse signal from the ignition module (integrated in PCM).
Possible causes :-

Open or short in Ignition START/RUN circuit.

Open coil driver circuit in harness.

Coil driver circuit shorted to ground.

Damaged coil.

Damaged PCM.

Coil driver circuit shorted to PWR.

P0352 Ignition Coil 2 Primary Secondary Circuit Malfunction
Wiring problem or the transistor inside the computer. Ford Ignition Coil Primary Codes P0351 P0360 Diagnostic Walkthrough