2001 dodge dakota sport with 2.5 engine idles high when I start it up, continues idling high, when pushing clutch in to change gears it idles extremely high

Change TPS sensor(RPM)

• My 2001 Dodge Dakota has a 4.7 liter engine but the problem you are experiencing is the exact one I had a while back. Here's the fix I used. 09/09/2013 - 87,250 mi. Problem, (engine wouldn't low idle) Idle Air Control Valve totally clogged with grease & soot. I cleaned thoroughly with "Carb & Throttle Body Cleaner".... Problem solved.... I hopes this helps.... L. Smith
  

try changing the automatic choke located on the side of the throttle body, its the big black thing that pushes the throttle open. i had a 1988 dodge dakota sport that did the same thing, i changed that and it has been fine ever since.

My uncle worked at a dodge dealership as a head mechanic for over 30 years and he also found all of the 3.9 liter engines to have the rough idle. The rough idle cannot be explained but it can be made worse by buildup on the engine. I have a 2001 Dakota sport with the 3.9 and mine does it too and one of the first times i drove it it stalled and its not a Manuel transmission. But onc I changed the oil and put Lucas oil additive as well as regular additives to my gas every month or so it has reduced greatly and not stalled since. Hopefully you find this helpful.

Spray carb cleaner on all the spots idle will change when you hit the leak. Don't soak the whole engine at once and try to start a fire. Let it dry and move to another area

The most common cause of high idle is an intake air leak. It will cause a lean condition to the O2 sensors and the PCM's solution is to increase the fuel mix resulting in faster idle. It can also cause a Check Engine Light if the idle remains too high for too long. Do a smoke test or soapy water test around the intake manifold and throttle body. If you detect any leaks, seal them and try again.

While driving, the Idle air control valve (IAC) fully retracts and you control airflow with the gas pedal. When you come to a stop the computer extends the IAC to let air bypass the throttle plate and maintain idle speed. If the IAC is sticking it sometimes cannot compensate fast enough to avoid a stall. The problem is aggravated by the Air conditioner clutch cycling on while stopping. You don't mention the check engine light so not likely a sensor. If you have a OBDII scanner with live data available you can check the Throttle position sensor easily. You are looking for a smooth change through the range as you press and release the gas pedal. Or use a voltmeter to see the TPS. Measure resistance with engine off or voltage (0 to 5 volts) with ignition on. It should move smoothly through the range.
Another easy test. Park brake on, in gear (if an automatic transmission) at idle, load the engine by turning the steering quickly to the end and see how quickly the IAC recovers. Clean or replace IAC and while in there clean the carbon off of the edges of the throttle plate.

when u press the gas pedal to go this opens the throttle valve, the idle speed of your engine is computer controlled, this is done by the ISC (idle speed control) airbypass valve, these parts get full of gunk and then get a stalling problem at or near idle, clean them by doing the following, if u don't understand the instructions seek help from your friend.
, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

could be a lot of things. I personally would start with your vacuum lines... check for a leak somewhere. You can do that by spraying carb cleaner (if motor tries to die, you found your leak), or it could be a sensor, likely idle air control, mas air, etc.)

Sounds like a bad battery, or bad/loose connection there. After the battery is replaced, or disconnected, it will need a little bit to relearn how to idle.