Sound baffle removal

it's on the engine and the battery PLUS lug cable goes to it
so follow the cable and bingo.
engine name GM. LA1.
3.4 L LA1 V6
first asks where, front lower right facing LA1
then how to get it out will be asked next?
oil filter just tad left and up.

chapter 2

1. Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable from the battery. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection (LA1).
2. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
3. Remove radiator air baffle assembly. Refer to Radiator Air Baffle Assemblies and Deflectors in Engine Cooling.
4. Remove the starter motor BAT terminal nut and electrical leads.
5. Remove the starter motor S terminal nut and electrical lead.
6. Remove the torque converter cover. Refer to Torque Converter Cover Replacement (LA1) in Automatic Transaxle - 4T65-E.
7. Remove the starter motor bolts.
8. Remove the starter motor. DONE,

The float is probably stuck on a baffle. Unfortunately, I think you will need to remove it and make sure the float moves freely.

Your gas tank has a float inside that is kart if tne. Fuel. Pump assembly that indicates the amount of fuel in the tank..it sends a message to the gauge...sounds like the float is sticking when the gas is sloshing around when moving..causing a false read being sent to the gauge. Most times the tank has to be removed to replace..good luck..

Have you tried pole a piece of wire like off a wire brush into the hole? I know it sounds silly, but most times what clogs the outlets is wax when you wax the car.

first drain oil from pan to prevent making mess ion floor.
Then remove all oil pan screws and pry pan off making sure it does not get bent.
If bent lightly tap with hammer on flat surface like workbench.
Some models are designed so that getting at all the screws is impossible. In that case you might have to remove engine mounts at the engine block and lift with a floor jack.
safest jack is a transmission jack.
the engine should be tied off with some heavy wire to prevent falling on you with a 4x4 or wood fence post.
Remove the metal baffle, should be only one screw.
Baffle is metal rectangular piece and in the middle.
The oil pump uses 2 screws and might have to tap lightly with hammer to remove.
Clean out the oil passage where the pump came off with a rag and thin screwdriver.
Clean baffle with some solvent and make sure it reseals properly when reassembling.
Remember to clean all parts to prevent leakage when reassembling.

Oil Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 22R and 22R-E Engines

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Drain the oil from the engine. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the oil pump components on 22R and 22R-E engines
   
   
3. Remove the oil pan.
4. Remove the four bolts holding the oil strainer.
5. Remove the drive belts.
6. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
7. If equipped with air conditioning, remove the compressor and its bracket. Support the compressor out of the way with the hoses attached. Do not discharge the system or loosen the compressor lines. Fig. 2: Bolt location identification
   
   
8. Loosen the oil pump relief valve bolt.
9. Remove the five retaining bolts and remove the oil pump assembly with the O-ring.
10. Remove the oil pump drive spline from the crankshaft. To install: NOTE: Pack petroleum jelly between the oil pump gears. This will prime the pump during initial startup.
    
11. Slide the pump drive spline onto the crankshaft. Place a new O-ring in the groove.
12. Clean the threads of the upper retaining bolt of all grease, oil or debris. Clean all the bolts holes.
13. Apply sealant to the first 2 or 3 threads of the upper bolt. Install all the bolts. Tighten each to the correct tightness. Bolt (a): 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm); bolts (b) 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm) and bolts (c) 9 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
14. Install and tighten the relief valve plug to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
15. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of the removal procedure.

3VZ-E Engine

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the engine under cover.
3. Remove the front differential.
4. Drain the oil.
5. Remove the timing belt.
6. Remove the crankshaft timing pulley.
7. Raise the engine slightly and remove the oil pan.
8. Remove the two bolts and nuts; remove the oil strainer and gasket.
9. Insert a drift between the cylinder block and the oil pan baffle plate, cut off the sealer and remove the baffle plate. NOTE: When removing the baffle plate with the drift, do not damage the baffle plate flange.
   
10. Remove the seven bolts, then the oil pump and O-ring. If the pump is difficult to remove, use a small plastic mallet to carefully tap the body of the oil pump. To install: NOTE: Pack petroleum jelly between the oil pump gears. This will prime the pump during initial startup.
    
11. Apply sealer to the oil pump mating surface, running the bead on the inside of the bolt holes. Position a new O-ring in the groove in the cylinder block and install the pump so that the spline teeth of the drive gear engage the large teeth on the crankshaft. Tighten the mounting bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). Fig. 3: Do not apply too much sealant on the pump surface, it can block the oil passage
    Fig. 4: Align the pump drive and the pump
    
    
12. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of the removal procedure. Tighten the oil strainer bolts to 61 inch lbs. (7 Nm).

Removal & Installation - Starter

1. Before servicing the vehicle.
   
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Radiator air baffle assembly
   Electrical connections Torque converter cover Starter
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   Starter. Torque the bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). Torque converter cover Solenoid -BAT- terminal. Torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Solenoid -S- terminal. Torque the nut to 27 inch lbs. (3 Nm). Radiator air baffle assembly Negative battery cable
2. Perform a charging system test and verify the starter is operating properly
   

Fig. Showing the starter motor location and electrical connections

1. Before servicing the vehicle.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Radiator air baffle, for clearance if necessary Flywheel inspection cover bolts Flywheel inspection cover Electrical connections from the starter motor Starter motor mounting bolts Starter motor
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   NOTE Before installing the starter motor to the engine, tighten the nut next to the cap on the solenoid BAT terminal. If this terminal is not tight in the solenoid cap, the cap may be damaged during installation of electrical connections and cause the starter motor to fail later.
   
   Starter motor Starter motor mounting bolts and tighten the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) Electrical connection to the battery terminal on the solenoid and tighten the battery terminal nut to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) Electrical connections to the S terminal on the solenoid and tighten solenoid S terminal nut to 27 inch lbs. (3 Nm) Flywheel inspection cover Flywheel inspection cover bolts Radiator air baffle, if removed
2. Connect the negative battery cable

Hope helps, remember rated this.

it is not ness to remove the dash.

Drain cooling system.
Remove inlet and outlet hoses from heater core.
Remove lower right hush panel.
Remove lower trim panel.
Remove heater case cover screws.
Remove heater case cover.
Remove core support plate baffle screws.
Remove heater core, support plate and baffle from car.
Reverse removal proceedure to install.
Refill cooling system and check for leaks.

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

IMPORTANT: This vehicle uses the PG260 F1 starter motor. The starter motor is serviced only as a complete unit.

1. Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable from the battery.
2. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
3. Remove radiator air baffle assembly.
4. Remove the starter motor BAT terminal nut and electrical leads.
5. Remove the starter motor S terminal nut and electrical lead.
6. Remove the torque converter co
7. Remove the starter motor bolts.
8. Remove the starter motor.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

1. Install the starter motor.
2. Install the starter motor bolts. Tighten the starter motor bolts to 47 N.m (35 lb ft)
3. Install the torque converter cover.
4. Install the starter motor S terminal electrical lead and nut. Tighten the starter motor solenoid S terminal nut to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
5. Install the starter motor BAT terminal electrical leads and nut. Tighten the starter motor solenoid BAT terminal nut to 10 N.m (89 lb in) .
6. Install radiator air baffle assembly.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Install the battery ground (negative) cable to the battery.

no belts dont come off .you need a special fan wrench .remove bolts and push pins that attach the intake air baffle to the radiator support then remove the baffle disconnect the transmission cooler lines at the engine bracket and fan shroud.disconnect the electro viscous clutch electrical connector from the shroud.remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator be prepared for coolant spillage.remove the fan clutch hub from the water pump by turning it counterclockwise.unclip the shroud from radiator side panels then tilt the condensor and radiator forward.get somebody to help you.remove the fan and shroud as one unit.by lifting straight up as the condenser and radiator are being held in the forward position.the fan can now be unbolted from the clutch .then you put on new fan clutch .put every thing back visa versa.