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No 12V constant voltage in my fuse panel. Car runs, turn signals work, brake lights OK. No head lights, tail lights, no interior lights
There is no constant 12V battery voltage in my fuse panel. It started when I changed the dome light? The fuse blew. I replaced the fuse, no help? There is continuity between terminals on the dome light. I can find no problem with the dome light wiring? Is there a fusable link in this circuit? The car runs, brake lights, turn signals, hazard lights, radio works. Radio loses preset and clock when ignition is turned off. No horn, head lights tail lights, interior lights, whether ignition is on or off? Any suggestions?
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Did you check proper fuse circuit for voltage? Use a test light to check for voltage. The tail lamps voltage comes by way of headlamp switch. Voltage for tail lamps is pink wire with blue tracer, goes hot when you turn on headlamp switch. Ground should be ok because the other lamps work.
its a brake fuse not the tail park lights. got trailer wiring hacks on car/ (look)
there are 2 lamps, lamps short. put in one new lamp, does it work? y/n if no , and the new brake lamp switch as 12v on both sides key on and brake pedal reset then the wires are open. if the voltage reads way low not 12v this line is grounding out.
this is easy to do with and DMM for say $20 , sold at walfart too.
The running lights and dash lights are on the same circuit.The brake lights and turn signals are on their own circuit.You need to use a 12v test light to see where the circuit is broken,starting at the fuse,then the headlight switch,then the dash harness.(If the headlights work,you at least know the headlight switch is getting power).
Look at fuse #18, a 15 amp fuse, in the fuse block. This fuse powers both the tail lights and instrument cluster lights. Usually both of these light systems are powered by the same fuse so when your cluster isn't lit up you'll know right away that your tail lights aren't working as it's not safe to drive without tail lights. Your brake, turn, and head lamps are powered by different circuits. Hope this helps and good luck!
Hello compwizard
The next thing to check is the brake light switch. The switch is located
under the dash on the left side of the brake peddle bracket. There
should be constant 12v into the switch and 12v out when brake is
applied. Use a 12v test light or volt meter to check the switch. The switch is a fairly common cause of the problem you have.
Hope this helps
Before going ahead and spending money on a new module, test it first. The module is located under the steering column. You'll find a Brown wire on one of the connectors (i just looked at a wire diagram). Do no disconnect anything. Back probe the brown wire, which is the power feed to your park lights. With the lights off, there should be 0 volts on you voltmeter. Turn the park lamps on, There should be 12V. If there is not 12V, disconnect the connector and try to check voltage at the pin that feeds to the brown wire, if still not 12V, replace the module. If you do get 12V, then module is ok, find where the 12v is being dropped before making it to the lamps.
I could not tell you how many times people have brought their cars into my shop and tell me that they had already checked all fues and they are OK, then I check the car and find a blown fuse or a fuse that is completely missing.
Your dash (Instrument Cluster) illumination lights are powered by the "PARK LP" fuse in the underhood fuse panel - it is fuse number 37 and should be a 20 Amp fuse. If this fuse is blown, your Park lights on the exterior of the car will also not be working. If they are working and your dash lights are not, then the problem is probably in your headlamp switch.
Your Brake lights are powered by the "STOP LAMP" fuse in the instrument panel (IP) fuse block it is a 15 Amp fuse.
Your Hazzard lights are powered by the "HAZZARD" fuse in the (IP) also a 15 Ap fuse.
If both of these fuses are good, then the most likely problem with your brake and hazzard lamps is the multifunction (Turn Signal) switch.
What any of the above has to do with replacing your window regulators remains a mystery.
you have one of two problems the first one is either a blowm fuse that is probably marked prk lghts check you fuses or you could have a bad light switch
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