The VSA light is non responsive to the switch. It started coming on a few weeks ago. It is never on when I start the vehicle and usually comes on within a few minutes of driving, but sometimes not at all. Now it has started to sporadically resist shifting out of park as if the micro-switch in the brake pedal is going out. If I tap the brake repeatedly it will eventually shift. Is it possible that these conditions are related, or do I have 2 separate problems?
I took my Honda FRV after doing the same thing, It ended up just being a fuse that needed to be replaced
Marvin is right. Run a test, or take it to the dealer. Mine went crazy in my 2004 Infiniti G35 and it turned out to be the sensor/solenoid under the dash which lets you shift from park when you press your brakes was broken, due to a person who was changing my oil carelessly kicked it when getting out of my car.
Mine is doing this same thing... Any solution?
You need the fault code read that triggered the light to come on.
SOURCE: 2000 Honda Odyssey. The passenger side
The driver's Multiplex Control System is a small computer that controls (among many other things) the dash lights brightness, ignition key interlock, shift interlock, and has a tie in to the brake light system and horn relay. It may be that this small computer malfunctioned and started the whole problem chain.
However, I note from the factory shop manual that if polarity is reversed on the shift interlock--it can be damaged. Reverse polarity will ruin the diode inside the shift interlock. This could have happened when you jumped the battery--a brief period of getting the cables and terminals mixed up could have done it.
Checking the shift lock solenoid can be done by removing the steering column upper cover. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (2 terminals). Using long jumper wires, apply battery voltage to terminal 1 (yellow wire side) of the solenoid and ground terminal 2 (green wire side). Check that the shift lever can now be moved out of Park. NOTE: applying voltage in the opposite direction of that above will damage the diode in the solenoid and will probably ruin it. Remove your jumpers and shift back to park and check that the solenoid locks. If the solenoid does not work properly, it will need to be replaced. This involves removing the end of the transmission shift cable and is a complex job. Remember, no power to the solenoid equals a locked solenoid--it takes power to unlock it.
The Multiplex Control Unit has a self diagnostic feature which checks the computer itself and inputs to the computer. The computer check is called mode 1 and the input test is mode 2. The diagnostic trouble codes are outputted to the ignition key light and beeper.
To test, first confirm that all fuses are good, especially fuse 9 (10A) in the driver's under dash fuse box (left kick panel) and fuse 13 (7.5A) in the passenger's under dash fuse box (right kick panel). Then use a jumper wire (a wire with small alligator clips on each end works best) to jump the two leads of the multiplex test connector. (This is a light green 2 terminal connector dangling from the same wire bundle as the brake pedal switch connector.) Buckle the driver's seat belt (avoids nuisance beeps). Now turn the ignition switch to on. After about 5 seconds, the ignition key light should come on and the beeper should beep for 2 seconds then stop for .2 sec. then beep once for .2 seconds. This indicates that the system is in diagnostic mode 1.
If no diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) are present, the key light and beeper will not blink/beep again. If there are codes: about one second after entering mode 1, the key light and beeper will indicate the DTC and repeat it every 3 seconds. If there are more than one, the system will indicate them in ascending order. The codes will be a light flash and beep so you will have to count the flashes/beeps to keep track. The codes range from 1 to 6. Code 3 (three flashes/beeps) indicates a problem with the multiplex control unit itself. Write back here for other codes or for questions about mode 2.
SOURCE: My Honda Element 2008 has a VSA Warning light and
It may be as simple as your oil condition or oil level. If you have poor oil in your engine the VTEC system will not operate properly and when RPMs reach 2800 or so it will buck. If everything checks okay with the oil have the code checked for your check engine light/VSA light.
SOURCE: brand new 2010 Honda odyssey Touring within 40
I can’t be much help on this one (too new for my experience), but your manual will say this (which probably isn’t all that helpful either).
The vehicle stability assist (VSA) system helps to stabilize the vehicle during cornering if the vehicle turns more or less than desired. It also assists you in maintaining traction while accelerating on loose or slippery road surfaces. It does this by regulating the engine’s output and by selectively applying the brakes.
When VSA activates, you may notice that the engine does not respond to the accelerator in the same way it does at other times. There may also be some noise from the VSA hydraulic system. You will also see the VSA activation indicator blink.
The VSA system cannot enhance the vehicle’s driving stability in all situations and does not control your vehicle’s entire braking system. It is still your responsibility to drive and corner at reasonable speeds and to leave a sufficient margin of safety.
On touring models you will also see a ‘‘CHECK VSA SYSTEM’’ message on the multiinformation display if there is a problem with the VSA system.
Without VSA, your vehicle still has normal braking and cornering ability, but it does not have VSA traction and stability enhancement.
The VSA system automatically turns on every time you start the engine, even if you turned it off the last time you drove the vehicle.
I’d get on the Honda people about the problem, especially since you just got the car. I would think that the alarming sounds you are hearing have to do with the unit working the brakes when it shouldn't be, but that's a guess.
Hope this helps some.
SOURCE: my 2006 honda odyssey won't start...2 days ago I
it sounds like that, if after installing the battery, it ran and started good, then this tells me it run until it drained the battery, so this tells me theres a charging problem, make sure the belt is on and then take a good look at the alternator and battery connections,then check the alternator output to see if its charging, it should put out 13.5 to 14.5 volts with engine running, if it doesnt then replace battery,you can also check for power at the alternator and other tests but i dont want to confuse you, a good thing to do is when removed just to double check have the parts store test it for you, it sounds like a bad alternator, hope this is helpful, good luck.
SOURCE: Whle driving my 04 diesel
Hey did you ever figure out what was wrong with your car? Mine is doing the SAME exact thing
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