1996 Ford Ranger SuperCab Logo

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Upnorthguy Posted on Feb 28, 2014
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Grinding noise something grinds when i shift into gears

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john stanley

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  • Ford Master 499 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 28, 2014
john stanley
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Joined: Feb 10, 2014
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Clutch is not disengaging enough . check the fuid in the clutch resivoir fill and bleed the sys

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Nov 24, 2008

SOURCE: popping or grinding noise when placed in reverse

check the rear dif.

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Anonymous

  • 1486 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 13, 2009

SOURCE: ford fiesta 1999: trouble shifting into 5th gear

gear linkage worn joints.

ourhowse

Dar

  • 2007 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 27, 2009

SOURCE: 1994 FORD RANGER STANDARD TRANS CLUTCH WON'T ENGAGE

The only adjustment you'll probably need is to get the air out of the clutch line. Loosen the bleeder screw, and put a two or three foot vacuum line on it. Submerse the other end of the line in a bottle of brake fluid. Pump the clutch untill no more bubbles are coming out of the hose into the bottle. Be sure to keep the reservoir topped up while you do this. Hold the clutch down, and tighten the bleeder screw. Some hydraulic clutches do have an adjustment on the rod that goes from the slave cyllinder to the pressure plate. I'm not sure about yours. If there is a nut on the rod, you can adjust it somewhat. You want it set so that there is just a little bit of play between the rod and the pressure plate where the rod goes. If none of this helps, you mayneed to replace the slave cyllinder.

joecoolvette

joecoolvette

  • 5660 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 31, 2009

SOURCE: Ford ranger, getting harder to shift into gear

Suggest you check the fluid level of the transmission first. Remove the fill plug, and see if it is Below the proper level. Do Not fill at this time! There is a reason for this.

Then I would suggest draining the fluid. You are also looking for brass fragments in the fluid. Drain into a three quart metal, or plastic drain pan. (They are approximately 18 inches across, and 4 inches deep)

1.Manual transmissions use Synchronizer's made of a brass alloy. The synchronizers have tapered teeth, that the nose of the teeth can be worn down. Also a tapered surface on the synchronizer, that can be worn down. Brass fragments in the transmission fluid is a sign of this wear.

Some brass 'dust' will occur as normal wear. A large accumulation means you have problems. Transmission is hard to shift, is one of those symptoms due to this.

This link to an animated working of a five-speed manual transmission, may help to explain how the components interact with each other, and also help me to explain the Synchronizer/s.
(From Howstuffworks.com - Auto- Under the Hood - Transmissions and Drivetrain)

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission3.htm

Looking at the animation, observe the 'gold' colored parts. In particular, observe the the pair of gold colored teeth at the rear. (The teeth are in a vertical row, going up and down)

Now also observe the blue colored teeth next to them, on either side. (On the spinning gears)
You are looking at a side view of the transmission, and also a side view of the Synchronizers.

The synchronizers are round just like the gears. They have a Female tapered surface where they meet the gear. The gear has a Male tapered surface on the outside of the gear, that matches.

When the female tapered surface of the synchronizer meets the male tapered surface of the gear, the friction contact makes the synchronizer start turning the same speed, as the gear.

Helps the gear being shifted into start turning also, and the - teeth of the synchronizer, - gear to be engaged, and - already turning components are synchronized to each other. They will be all turning the same speed, so shifting will be smooth.

This shows you Synchronizer rings for a 4-speed Muncie transmission,

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUNCIE-4-SPEED-BRASS-SYNCHRONIZER-RINGS-1963-TO-1974_W0QQitemZ360137693405QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=&itemid=360137693405

Enlarge it for a better view.
See the teeth going around the synchronizer ring? Notice that they are pointed, or V shaped. When the nose, or tip of this V is worn down, a manual transmission is hard to shift.

Also observe the flat landing on top. (In this view it's on top) The flat landing has three rectangular cutouts in it. (There are used for Detents)

Come from that top landing, down the side to the teeth. This Side has a tapered surface. Tapered ever so slightly, that it is not readily visible in this photo.
When this tapered surface wears down, the transmission is hard to shift.

Summation?
1.Low fluid will cause hard shifting. It will also cause abnormally high wear of the synchronizer rings, (Synchronizer Rings are also referred to as 'Blocker Rings')

2.Worn Synchronizer Rings,
Broken or worn Detent 'buttons',
Broken Detent Springs,
and worn Synchronizer Hub's,
will cause hard shifting.

Should you not have an abnormal amount of brass shavings in your transmission fluid, and found the fluid to be low, you may want to just replace the fluid to the proper level, and see if this works first.

If so, I suggest contacting your Ford dealer, and see what the proper transmission fluid is for YOUR Ford Ranger. They will go by THE transmission is used in your truck, and will have any updates if better fluid has been developed since your truck was made.

I know dealers are expensive to buy from sometimes, but I implore you to use the transmission fluid they recommend.
It will have special additives.



Anonymous

  • 3533 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 08, 2010

SOURCE: GRINDING NOISE IN TRANSFER CASE

check out all of the bearing and bushing give these websites a try www.alldatadiy.com and www.autozone.com if it is the transfercase checkout a good salvage yard for one give this website a try to find one close to you www.junkyarddog.com wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.

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1answer

What would cause a grinding noise that whenever u put it in gear will not move

A grinding noise when you put the motorcycle into gear and it doesn't move could indicate several issues with the final drive on your Suzuki Intruder. Some possible causes are:
  1. Worn or damaged clutch: The clutch may not be engaging properly, preventing power from reaching the rear wheel. A worn or damaged clutch can cause a grinding noise when you try to shift into gear.
  2. Faulty gear: The gears inside the final drive may be worn or damaged, preventing them from meshing together properly. This can cause a grinding noise when you try to shift into gear.
  3. Low or contaminated gear oil: Low or contaminated gear oil can cause excessive wear on the gears inside the final drive, leading to a grinding noise and reduced performance.
  4. Failed final drive: A failed final drive can cause a grinding noise and prevent power from reaching the rear wheel.
If you are not familiar with motorcycle repair, it is recommended to take the bike to a qualified mechanic to diagnose and fix the issue.
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Grinding clutch

I'm a little confused on your description of the noise. If I understand you correctly It is making the noise when it shifts smoothly into gear but at the same time it makes a grinding noise ? It possibly can be synchronizers if the grooves on the inside of the synchronizers are worn bad enough to where the gear isn't slowing down enough causing a grind as the clutching teeth on the gear mesh with the synchrode and the shift collar.
If it is making noise in all gears except 4th you may have countershaft brgs failing. The power flow in 4th gear goes directly through the mainshaft and has a 1 to 1 ratio. All other gears the powerflow goes through the countershaft causing a load on the countershaft so if you have bearings failing in the countershaft you will hear noise in all gears but 4th.
i hope I understood you correctly .
0helpful
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Transmission makes grinding noise when shifting from park to reverse and then to drive

check the linkages from gear stick to gear box may be loose.
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PLEASE HELP Metal grinding while driving

Sounds like the thrust bearing is worn to the bleep. Though I suspect it's not Synchromeshing. Some part of the Clutch mechanism failing critically.
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manual_transmission#Synchromesh
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clutch
Did it run out of Oil? BUT then maybe damage has been done to both the internal of the Gearbox as well as the clutch, so yeah STOP driving it before more damage that can set you back a fortune
0helpful
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What is it when in reverse the automatic transmission on a 1999 Camaro grinds?

Reverse is not "synchronized" forward gears are, so it does make some noise, try shifting to 2nd before engaging reverse to slow gear rotation and limit gear clash or grind.
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98 Jeep Wrangler will shift when off but not while running makes grinding noise.

There is something wrong with the clutch. Make sure that there is enough clutch fluid in it. For some reason the clutch isn't disengaging like it should, so you are grinding the gears in your transmission, making that awful noise. You want to get it looked at before you ruin your transmission by stripping the gears.
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2004 hyundai sant fe clutch makes grinding/whining noise when trying to shift gears. Just replaced the clutch 2 years ago. 107,000 miles

Does clutch grind or does it grind as you put into gear? If as you put into gear then , Transmission needs new sycros.
1helpful
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"gear grinding" noise on acceleration, 2 wheel high only

This sounds like the famous problem that those ten bolts give, remove the rear differential cover and inspect the oil for metal debris, it's more than likely to be the carrier bearings wornout making the ring and pinion offmesh causing the grinding and will eventually break. Hope this helps
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