Idles way to fast after start up

well gee, there are 50 reasons.
did you scan the PCM yet, if not ,why not?
when the idle surges, that means.
NO RPM ranges stated, if super low rpm check EGR.

1: engine lean and ISC dead, or cant handle the huge engine power drop..The PCM can even make this worse!, buy hunting the ISC to find spec, idle and failing... to...
2: or any of 50 other things causing huge engine power drop and PCM can't maintain idle controls.
super lean burn.(bogging)
super rich burn, misfire for 50 reasons.

i cant hear your engine,nor feel it, or see it shake from gross misfiring.
no can i drive it and see/feel power loss,
can I?
asking net bunny's this (blind as bats)
is "OVER THE TOP" no?
so here , ill toss the dice for you
and guess gross misfiring.
ever get a tuneup this decade, if not bingo , no?

and the others...

http://jeepdied.com/Misfire101.html

link even has the 50 cause list, to show the futility of guessing!
we do 1 to 10 tests. and find it.
for sure.

as you can see EFI systems are complex.
gue$$ is not only expensive but can net you 2 problems easy.

This is normal if the fast idle on cold start drops to a lower rpm after 60 seconds or so or once sufficient engine temperature has been reached.

Idle air control motor. Clean it or replace it.

Cars are design to run at a higher idle at start up to warm them up quick. There is a sensor that reads water temperature and tells your car's computer how fast to idle. Your RPMs seem slightly high but not out of the norm. Does idle ever drop to around 600/800 after about a minute? If not, your engine temperature sensor maybe defective.

Catch?
cranks fast
starts every time.
idles fine hot or cold , or both? hot idle not too fast.
i race engine , in park and neutral, I can hit 3500 rpm easy, can you.
i release brakes, (brakes are not packed in ICE , are they?)
I select 1gear or reverse (A/T or m/t)
the car moves or dont move, which is it, my guess catch = no move at all.
I try to drive, i look at RPM and MPH
RPM moves up and MPH track.
track means they both move in a linear progression.
RPM rises and for all RPM increases MPH also increases.
does it?
if all that works then we have an engine power issue.
weak on hills?

fast idle speed screw, works off the fast idle cam which the choke adjustment sets, it works together by linkages. This is the raised idle speed setting you need to keep a cold engine running. First you set the idle speed by the idle speed screw with engine at normal operating temperature. Then you set the linkage up so the cam is on a raised step, throttle will be held on that raised step. then you can turn the idle speed screw to get idle at about 1500-1800 rpm. Now when you start engine cold, choke will set the fast idle cam on that raised step- when engine starts and runs it should be running at your fast idle setting. That's how it supposed to work, you just have to get everything adjusted right. I hate carburetors, they never stay adjusted right. Considering their complexity and small mechanical parts, no wonder.

no year, wow.!
sounds like gross loss of engine power
or
you started car and didnt notice RPM was 400 rpm.
the engine has almost no power at that rpm.
the normal cold start (winter) is about 1500 RPM.
if not at fast idle fix bad fast idle (Bad IAC)

when i say bad IAC that means the system IAC is bad,not just a part.
the IAC /ISC controls idle at all times, via ECU commands.

Yeah it sounds kinda high. There is no adj except for the idle screw on the throttle, the computer does the rest, if it has one. If not, then you can adjust it some how. If carbureted, check for 2 little screws in the front, and check the choke, If throttle body, then just the idle screw, the idle should be around 1000. Hope this helps.

It's the choke doing tis job. It reduces the amount of air to the engine to help it start/warm up. As the engine reaches a good operating temp it will drop the RPM's. Some times they do get stuck, so some cleaner wouldn't hurt. Spray it into the throttle body while the engine is running. Also the O2 sensor could be bad.

Could be vacuum leak or bad ignition wire(s).

I had a similar problem on my "93 Ford probe. The engine idled pretty rough with shakes, Turned out to be a head gasket leaking engine coolant into the cylinder during low rpm's. At fast rpm's it was fine becuase the internal cylinder pressure was greater than the hot coolant pressure & would prevent the coolant from leaking in.

A friend has the same problem with his "94 Blazer 4.3 L, throttle body injection, manual tranny. He hasn't fixed it yet, It started a few weeks ago & is getting worse. His gets a fast idle with hiccups which causes the engine shake. He already checked the EGR valve. He also has a severe exhaust problem, Not oilly but very gray & terrible smelly, but only when the fast idle problem happens. THis fast idle hiccup problem starts when the engine is warmed up.