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The tach readout is controlled by software in the Instrument cluster (IC) based on the values sent from the VCM/PCM. The readout on your scanner should show the correct rpm values (120 to 240 is wrong). Therefore, if the engine is running normally, the computer is probably not sending the correct values to the IC, but the crank sensor is OK.
it can only be 2 things.
1: transmission slip
2: engine died, or has weak power.
if you know what engine rpm is, you can solve this riddle.
A: RPM RISES FAST, MPH (SPEED) DONT. BAD TRANNY
B: Rpm sicks low, car dont move, bad engine (weak, or 100 other reasons. but (bad engine power)
it be impossible for me to express RPM with sounds,
so only an RPM gauge works. does your car have one.? "dash"?
im too lazy to look but, most cars have sub models that dont have this
important gauge.
First we would need to know when this occurs.
Asuming the oil level is at the full mark!. If the pressure goes up
during acceleration and down at idle when engine is fully warmed up,
then this is normal. An engine requires 10 psi of oil pressure per
1,000 rpm ( ex. 20 psi at 2,000 rpm, 25 psi at 2,500 rpm, and so on )
. If the gauge is moving back and forth erratically at idle , i would
say the gauge is bad. If it drops to 0 while accelerating I would say
your oil pump is bad. If from time to time it seems to work and other
times it seems not to work, I would say the oil pressure sending unit for the gauge is bad.
If the pump failed you would start to here a
Knocking noise from the engine in a short period of time. Use the
above scenario's to narrow down what it may be.
Switch ig. on, ground the sender unit wire for about 3 seconds see if the temp. gauge moves, if so change sender unit, if not then it is a faulty gauge reader. also check instrument voltage stabilizer.
faulty dial, remove the instrument panel and spray some switch cleaner in to the back of the dial, if this doesn't work you'll need to replace the dial
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