It like it not getting gas I change the fule pump I change the spark plug spark plug wires cap
If its not getting gas...the evidence should be present on the old plugs.
if they were lean, run fuel pressure and volume measurements. in the event you still have the filter you were using before the pump work, change it. test according to the TSB that pertains to your model.
verify your build date and vin # before applying the info to this vehicle.
look at test step NS-1(mitchell manual,public library) and run those tests till you have a running ,driving jeep before condemming anything else. if you dont know what any of this means, tow it to jeep
no HORSE power , engine is bogging out. if you did the 60k tuneup. did you? then the filter would be new. as would spark plugs. the fiter is clamped near the tank, next post is the FSM pages. on this car the fuel pressure regulator is in the gas tank (self reg) pressure goes higher and engine flooding and misfire happen, spark plug tips turn black. (hint , look) page 14-5 , the pressure spec, is 49psi plus/minus 2. If bogging full time, and on hills, and tunedup, then it might be low fuel pressure, or the air cleaner is packed in bugs.. again, a tune part. if all this makes no sense, then take it to the man, the Man with the bright red texaco start (now called M.r good wrench ,etc) any ASE fully certified technician.
still no engine stated. so..... hard to fix cars blind or help. the TSB alluded to above is NO: 14-06-97 that changes the 49PSI to plus/minus 5, not 2. and tells you bad fuel tanks , cause problems... a duh factor of 10 there.
i have a special tool to disect that fuel filter to see whats inside,during 60k service points. if i see rust , i get the tank serviced.
so min, pump pressure is 44 PSI. 49-5 , also the injectors have very tiny screens and will clog with any tank contamination, and bog. and misfire.
yes i agree, and that pump has its valves inside the vertical "can"
the sensors , after 18 years must be updated. i find that CROWN automotive parts are the least likely to have repeat failures.Add a Comment
theres a low cost valve available from BMW that is installed on a u tube video for those with issues staying primed
shorted DG/OR wire takes power away from the injectors. It runs to every sensor in the schematic. unplug them all and check ohms to gnd. then plug them in one by one watching the ohmmeter. replace those sensors first. then order the rest of them. keep your harness repaired esp. near the exhaust and the back of the engine.
a baggy timing chain increases dwell variation, a new one has zero degrees measurable slack. and the chain by itself is only 30 bucks. but the pcm needs special scan tool to re learn the distributor position. thats why loss of battery to KAM power is crucial
the tsb about fuel corrects the book. many of the bulletins listed under "dealer info" correct the book. there is changes every year or less on these vehicles.
its the mitchell database i am referring to. the haynes manuals cover such a range you go blind trying to read the book. the fuel pump on this one is different than the one before or the one after, there is no fuel pressure regulator on this model. it was taken off when these cars were updated by ford for dodge before release for sale. we removed and replaced the timing chains, the pcm's, and the entire fuel rail!!!
dodge had too many to get running and no time so they blamed the distributor and trucked them all to ford dealers. you may notice it has a motorcraft distributor in an AMC engine with mopar updated pieces bolted on. we found excessive slack in the amc chain and that(using a different update part) gave base reference to the rotor.
we then , having pcm's in bootstrap, replaced the pcm's and had them start with no memory of the previous position
now you will need the "dealer info" bulletins because there are so many places the book lies. they did not rewrite or update, only added bulletins. the schematic you use must not be police package. tape the 3 printed pages together, tack it up on the wall. trace the DG/OR wire every where you see it with a colored sharpie. if you notice its everywhere. any problem with connections,shorts, cooked harness, or shorted sensors must be found by this method with an ohmmeter. they take away injector power. i recommend listing all the sensors in the schematic, evaluating the ones on your rig, and replacing them all to get the updates. even the diameter of the connector pins has been changed on the newer parts for intermittant no starts due to CKP (crank)sensor learn
×
96 ZJ. (no engine option stated, so generic answers)
post symptoms..... ???
ok, i see some.....
ENGINE BOGS!
no engine power.!
questions, no power hot engine, cold engine or both?
question 2, is the bogging, all the time. ? or intermittent or?
OK, Engine 101 .
there are 3 causes (basics) to make and engine bog.
bad engine (compression tests)
bad spark (spark tests)_
bad fueling. just 3. but finding it takes simple test. guessing is very expensive....
if engine compression is good, and you have near 10inches of vacuum, cranking (if not the CAT can be melted)
next is bad SPARK
is spark good (this is a test) to all cylinders, not just 1. ?
use a spare new test spark plug to test spark for best results.
spark good. that means (if you get this far) its bad fueling
Is it flooding or dry ?
the tips of the spark plugs , must not be all of them wet with fuel
soaking (its it will with bad spark but is not here) if its flooding
then crank engine over at wide open throttle and it will start.
WOT cranking clears flooding on all engines. (cuts fueling)
if dry, then try test fuel.
if test fuel fails, you skipped a test above or the order skipped.
see scotty do his magic.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
I always check fuel rail pressure first. before attacking my fueling issues. that is because the ECU cant correct for gross low pressure.
28psi is min. (generic, inj. spec. not Jeep)
the gauge to do that is $20
in fact the 3 guages, needed are $20 each.
fuel, spark , compression.
the tools are about 1hr. shop labor ,cost.
There's a good chance that it may be your Crankshaft Position Sensor. Mine died awhile back, and caused similar symptoms. It's located on top of the transmission housing just behind the engine, and is only mildly difficult to remove and replace. There are lots of videos, etc. online showing how to do it.
the CEL will glow with bad CMK, and will misfire not bog and will store DTC for DKP and drop the ASD relay, in 2 seconds. my guess, is it needs a tune up.... and might be low fuel pressure, did you finish that tune up with a new fuel filter. if it clogs, pressure drops and power drops. and will do so , till it dont run any more. at about 28psi.
i ment finsh the 60k tune up, need the list , its in the opr. guide.
no editor, meant, and finish. sorry, im used to 1960 typewriters with CR at end of line.
×
SOURCE: hesitation, stalling like out of gas
Clogged Catalytic Converter. What happens is as you push down harder on the accelerator you force more gas into the system causing a slightly richer mixture and more exhaust flow is neccessary. The easiest way to look for a clogged cat is when it's dark out take it for a ride causing it perform it's problem look under the vehicle if the cat is literally glowing red hot you either have a clogged cat or an extremely rich fuel mixture.
SOURCE: Engine will crank but will not turn over
Do this, take the top off the carb, being careful not to damage the gasket. Then take some carb cleaner and clean out the bowl and floats. Remove the needle valve and clean it out. Put it all back together and filling the bowl with carb cleaner. Start it with the starting fluid. Once you run the carb cleaner through it, it should start to run on it's own. Whatever you do don't shut it off for about 20-30 min unless you have to.
SOURCE: need wiring digram from spark plugs to distributor cap
Review the Jeep ZJ Repair Manual in the Firing Order (page 10 and 11) for 4.0L 6-cyl and 5.2L 8-cyl.
I really hope hepled with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.
SOURCE: troubleshooting fuel system for 1975 jeep cj5
i have a 1974 CJ5 with a 258 I have replaced the carb,pump,plugs,wires,cap,button,coil filter and the jeep will idle fine but when you try to drive it or give it alot of fuel the jeep back fires and its like someone turned the fuel off. what could the problem be.
127 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×