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There are a few potential reasons why your engine fans may be running all the time after you turn off your 2006 Mazda 6:
Coolant temperature sensor: The coolant temperature sensor may be malfunctioning and sending incorrect signals to the engine control module. As a result, the fans may run continuously to try and keep the engine cool.
Faulty fan relay: The fan relay controls when the fans turn on and off. If the relay is faulty, it can cause the fans to run all the time.
Failed Engine Control Module (ECM): The Engine Control Module (ECM) controls the engine fans and if it fails it can cause the fans to run constantly.
Leak in the cooling system: A leak in the cooling system can cause the engine to overheat, which can cause the fans to run all the time.
Stuck fan clutch: A fan clutch that is stuck in the "on" position can cause the fans to run all the time.
It's best to have a professional mechanic diagnose the issue. They will be able to identify the specific cause of the problem and make the necessary repairs. It is also important to keep an eye on the temperature gauge, if it's showing a high temperature and the fans are running all the time, it's important to stop the car as soon as possible and have it checked by a professional to avoid further damage.
How about the water pump ? Who replaced the parts ? A qualified repair shop ? Were codes checked ?
The PCM controls the electro-viscous fan clutch engagement. The PCM regulates a 12-volt pulse width modulated signal (PWM) to the cooling fan relay. The PWM signal determines the ON time of the relay. As the commanded state of the fan clutch increases, so does the ON time of the relay. This ON time directly effects the amount of time the solenoid, which is internal to the fan clutch, is energized. When the solenoid in the fan clutch is energized, it opens the spring loaded valve and allows fluid to flow from the storage chamber to the fluid coupling of the cooling fan clutch, increasing the fan speed. When the solenoid is de-energized, the spring loaded valve closes, and blocks the path of the fluid to the fluid coupling of the fan clutch, reducing fan speed.
The fan has the ability to create a feedback signal, so the PCM has an actual fan speed input. This is done with a hall effect sensor internal to the fan clutch. The PCM supplies a 5-volt reference and a low reference to the hall effect sensor. The hall effect sensor returns a signal pulse through the cooling fan speed signal circuit in response to the relucktor track passing by the magnetic field of the hall effect sensor.
Was electrical tested before fan clutch was replaced !
The clutch fan is designed to turn when the engine is hot, when it is cool the clutch releases and the fan does not run at engine speed . This keeps down the noise and engine power drain when it is not needed.It sounds to me like you bought a used clutch fan that is not serviceable as it is always on.If your car was not overheating then the old fan may still be good.
SOUND LIKE ENGINE GETTING TOO HOT.THAT WILL CAUSE LOST OF POWER.CHECK COOLING CLUTCH FAN IF IT HAS RESISTANCE WHEN ENGINE HOT FAN CLUTCH IS GOOD.IF FAN CLUTCH FREE WHEELS WITH NO RESISTANCE WHEN ENGINE HOT.FAN CLUTCH IS BAD.THAT WILL CAUSE ENGINE TO RUN HOT WHILE DRIVING.
With
mechanical fans, most overheating problems are caused by
a faulty fan clutch - though a missing fan shroud can reduce the fan’s
cooling
effectiveness by as much as 50 percent (depending on the fan’s distance
from the
radiator), which may be enough to cause the engine to overheat in hot
weather or
when working hard.
Defective
fan clutches are a common and often overlooked cause of
overheating. The shear characteristics of the clutch fluid gradually
deteriorates over time, with an average loss in drive efficiency of
about 200
rpm per year. Eventually slippage reaches the point where effective
cooling is
no longer possible and overheating results. (On average, the life of a
fan
clutch is about the same as a water pump. If one needs to be replaced,
the other
usually does too.)
If
the fan clutch shows signs of fluid leakage (oily streaks radiating
outward from the hub of the clutch), spins freely with little or no
resistance
when the engine is off or wobbles when the fan is pushed in or out, it
needs to
be replaced.
With
an electric cooling fan, check to see that the fan cycles on when the
engine gets hot and when the air conditioner is on. If the fan fails to
come on,
check the fan motor wiring connections, relay and temperature sensor.
Try
jumping the fan directly to the battery. If it runs, the problem is in
the
wiring, relay or sensor. If it fails to run, the fan motor is bad and
needs
replaced.
you need a repair manual.to get you started you going have to remove top radiator hose.you also have to remove clutch and fan as a assembly from water pump.you going have to remove fan shroud with clutch and fan as a assembly to make it easy to get out.once you remove fan and clutch.you have to remove clutch from fan.in order to put on a new one.
you mean it is not running, ok it will run the same time with the compressor, monitor if the compressor clutch engage while fan not ,check supply going to the fan if present. The fan is damaged and need to be repair.
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