2003 yukon quits running and just dies on hot days turn it off and wait about ten minutes and it will start back up and run usually for few days or until it gets hot outside and then does it again .have had fuel pump and filter replaced also massair flow replaced . what could be the problem.

Sounds like the coil or pickup is getting hot?

Sorry to get your hopes up but I have a similar problem with my 2005 Yukon Denali. How long does the truck stay running before it shuts down? Mine started out with short spurts of the truck shutting down while driving. It slowly progressed to the point where it will only run for about 45 seconds. Originally the truck would sputter the gauges would die and then the truck would die. It slowly progressed to the point where it only runs for 45 seconds and there is no signs before hand. Does any of this happen to your vehicle? I have checked all of my cables and the main ground wires. Along with changing a few of the relays. Nothing has helped. My problem started with an electrical component heating up and quitting. Now it doesn't matter how hot it is in only runs for a couple seconds.

check your crank and cam sensors...see if one is not plugged tight in

sounds like a fuel problem, how many miles on vehicle? as a quick fix it would be worth using a fuel addative , you haven't said if petrol or diesel, if petrol get addative that covers the catalytic converter ,having a blocked exhaust system can cause engine to stall also get the OBD codes read as this will tell you what if any sensors/switch's are faulty

sounds like cool gets hot and quits or fuel pump weak

The Passlock family has two basic relearn procedures-a ten-minute procedure and a thirty-minute procedure-and which one you use depends on the system and what components have been replaced.

The ten-minute procedure involves trying to start the engine. If nothing happens or the engine starts and dies, the security light will be flashing. Wait ten minutes. The flashing light should go off or illuminate without flashing. When it does, turn the ignition off, wait twenty seconds, and then try to start the engine. If it starts and runs, everything is okay. If you get the same result as previously-nothing happens or the engine starts and dies with the security light flashing-wait ten more minutes.

You will now begin the thirty-minute relearn procedure, which is just the ten-minute procedure repeated three times. After turning the ignition off for the third time and waiting for twenty seconds, the engine should start and run. If it doesn't, there may still be something wrong with the system.

After the learn procedure is completed and the engine is running, the security light may stay on steady for a few minutes and then go off-this is normal. Depending on the system, replacement of key components will necessitate that a relearn procedure be completed. These include the ignition lock cylinder, Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Body Control Module (BCM), or Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) ............ .Logic lock-up is an internal software issue within a control module which may be cleared by disconnecting and reconnecting the affected module (re-booting the system).

Electronic control modules can develop internal software issues which can cause erratic or no operation of the affected module. In most cases the module can be restored to proper operation by electrically disconnecting and reconnecting the affected module, just as you would reboot your home computer when it begins acting strangely.

Repeated Logic Lock-up failures of the same module would normally warrenty replacement of the affected module.

I'd have fuel pressure tested. I had a 95' did same thing. Cold winter day, worked fine, as soon as it got warmer, or hot out, it would quit, and re-start 20 minutes later and go for a distance then die again. If I parked in the shade on a hot day, I'd get further before it quit for the first time. I started carrying a fuel pressure gauge with me. Cool in the morning my fuel pressure was up to spec @ 49-50psi. Once it got warm/hot out and it died, Hooked up gauge and it was at 2-5psi. Let it sit and cool off 20-30 minutes, pressure would jump back up and run good until fuel pump got hot again and then pressure dropped off and car quit. It sure sounds like the fuel pump, but the hard part will be getting the car to the shop at the right time, or they will need to let it run on the lot until it quits to confirm the pressure drop. One thing you can try is when car quits, have a can of WD-40 or quick start with you and a screwdriver. Loosen the clamp on the air intake hose where it connects to the front of the throttle body and pull it off. With vehicle off, turn throttle linkage so the plate opens up enough to spray WD-40 a second or 2 in the throttle body. Then try to start it. If it starts and runs momentarily, then you can be pretty sure it's fuel related and my guess is the pump needs replacement.

sounds like a spark timing issue. dist/coils or plugs. the only other thing and this is weird-the coolant temp sensor

sounds like you could have a bad coil. hope this helps.

It sounds like either alternator or computer, I f you can get it to run on its own pull the positive battery cable off the battery and if it dies its your alternator. And this is no real way to check the computer except going up to a AutoZone and they can check codes for free