This car is a dirt track car. I bought it at the end of last season and when started, was fine but when revved would have a pop, like a small backfire but ran smooth. When unloading for first practice of the year, caught the body on the trailer and cut both fuel lines. Fixed that and seemed ok. However, when starting, it was rich but idled. After revving and feathering would smooth out. If you shut it off for a couple minutes and started it would do same thing. Saturday night, started it up and revved and it would try to stall and had to let off. Idled fine. Still able to feather it and eventually rev it up and get it to smooth out. However, after a couple laps, it stalled out. Fired it back up and after feathering the throttle, it finally picked up power. It did this every time and would cut out after running very well. Any ideas at all? Not sure the broken lines are related but wanted to give as much detail as possible. It seems to have gotten progressively worse and took a top 5 car to the pits after 2 laps of feature. First year racing and need help!
Sounds more like it's running lean. Have you checked fuel pressure at the rail? Could be the filter. Also try pulling the vacuum line off the regulator to see if the diaphragm is split and leaking fuel into the manifold.
SOURCE: Ford Escape stalls while driving.
As the post said earlier they went to a ford shop.... I suggest to have your vehicle inspected elsewhere. maybe have your o rings replaced and your fuel system cleaned.
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i am trying to install an aftermarket temperature guage with capillary tube into my 1988 crown victoria ltd 5.0 efi. where does the capillary tube mount?
SOURCE: 88 f250 300 6cyl,changed all fuel relays,fuel
I know some old fuel injected systems will dump fuel because of the coolant temp sensor should be located on lower intake in the front. Also check the timing.
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that would be a wet soak concern, Likely fuel pump failure
Testimonial: "I changed the fuel pump (actually pretty easy )thanks; so far 3days its worked every time so far "
SOURCE: 2005 f250 6.0 diesel started to sputter them died wants to start but won't
The
following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any
electronically controlled engine or transmission problem. The
engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is
only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter
the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in
most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory
of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as
the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done
is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system
for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for
engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained
technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then
based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the
correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer
replaced (known as the PCM or ECM,ECU), which is very rarely the
problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical
problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage
on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well
such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure
related problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause
many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other
symptoms.
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