USA o r Canada DRL.? (bought in which country)
Jeep does make EXPORT cars. so where are you,?
and light system very by countries laws, big time.
95 jeep Cherokee. with DRL.
chapter. 15 LAMPS , page 15 DRL , CANADA PAGE>
this works only if its not ADDed , and is OEM.
right innder finder panal, just in front of the cab fan motor.
Left hand drive cars, is yours left hand? drive?
seen here, under XJ body.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
why not post the VIN so we can see what the car really is.
the car has body tags too, telling what car really is.
if in canada, you guys buy 3 cars,
Canada export
USA fED
USA califi.
3 types. (at least)
some cars bought in Canada are USA cars and are modified
for your DRL laws. big time.
Thanks Fossil! The Jeep was built in Michigan, USA. It was bought brand new in British Columbia, Canada. It came with running lights and it is a left hand drive.
VIN 1J4GZ58SOSC767317. Thanks for the link. It has been very useful. But still no success in locating it.
It's been well over a year now and still no luck. Being color blind officially sucks. I'm doing some work to it now. It's time to try again.
my guess car is in Canada. why not just say so?
"The running lights stay on ." key OFF.
Headlights on? key off, my guess NO.
or all park lights, front rear, and side markers stuck on??? ill guess, yes.
The park lamps (aka. tail/park/sidemakers)
can stick on only if , circuit L90 sticks on.
this can be the head lamp switch stuck on
or the DRL pin2 stuck on.
when pin 2 sticks on pull fuse 24,.
see the drawing below, and pin 2.
real book shows.
see pin 2 on the module.
and fuse 24. ?
it must hot be HOT, (means 12v)
when the key is off.
is it? using a voltmeter? check all DRL pin voltages... all of them. and report.
Fuse 24 kills the lamps. now.?
1995 ZJ,
questions , do you have automatic headlights option?
below is real ZJ DRL box. for canada only.
does pulling fuse 24 stop the park lamps
from glowing?
if yes, that means the drl box is bad
or the logic inputs are wrong. to it.
to see if the logic is bad, use a voltmeter
on all pins on the DLR box.
the module is show below, next to PDC.
the 3rd pin above from left is pin 6
if that pin is hot, then the DRL will mess up
that is the headlamps on switch , or stuck in park.
that pin 6 line is L26 signal.
tiny photo on fixya make working drawings impossible to post.
like working through a keyhole.
my guess, is pin2 is stuck hot. (logic)
and pin is stuck hot.
if not pin 6 stuck hot the DLR is bad.
my guess2, is the DLR box has relays inside.
(old technology and like to stick.)
remove it? and smack it sharply, not break case hit it , to jar loose any contacts inside stuck.
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Daytime running light module, they used to be super common on those vehicles. replaced tons of them
?€¢
The ambient light sensor indicates daylight.
?€¢
The vehicle is not in the PARK position.
When the above conditions are met, the lamp control module (LCM) supplies battery positive voltage (B+) to the low beam headlamps through CKT 589 (GRY), the DRL resistor, and CKT 12 (TAN). The DRL resistor reduces the voltage supplied by the LCM. The low beam headlamps light at a reduced intensity. The DRL disable if the vehicle is placed in the PARK position. When the ambient light sensor indicates darkness, the low beam headlamps automatically switch from a reduced intensity to a regular intensity.
Lamp Control Module (LCM)
In the center of the IP, below the center heater outlets
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Usually answered in minutes!
I meant daylight running module. Its not anywhere near the coolant overflow tank that some people have been suggesting on line.
It's a 4.0l Laredo.
id bet its a Canada export car, made for the Canadian market. the FSM book shows, it , if its not there then the car is modified. so just find all wires that go to lamps that glow, in DRL mode. keep in mind wire colors also change for Exports, due to laws in THEIR country. and big time change if to Europe. see wiring page, 8w-50-2 and page 7, see the factory wiring. see the colors, page 7 is the canada page. if you read that page, you can see the DRL (mod) fits between the HL and HL switch, the module has 7 pins,wired. and one is low beam and is DRL pin 10 and is (canada) color code VT/WT (violet -white stripe). so how many models on car are at lest 7 pins, and with that color wire, ONLY ONE. if your car is not stock then nodody hear can help you. we tell to follow THAT color wire, or we can tell you , that the wires that look hacked are in fact hacked, do you know what that means. non OEM type wiring hacks, ? (we can show a list of 100 hacks) but why do that. all techs, know stock wiring, with factory connnectors, do you know about that?
one more point, USA, only, EPA laws. open hood, look up, behold the big white sticker (shows vacuum map and timing rules) and shows what country this car is for. plain as day, it will say, Mfg for USA regulations conformance. bla bla or USA fed and Calif , or only calif. or for Canada with a oak leaf sticker for canada EPA compliance, all cars in USA have that sticker by law.
after glance at engine, that stricker is my first look, on all cars. for good cause.
edit models to modules above. sorry.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-b...
there is the page again. the real jeep, real DRL page 8w-50-7, clear. car ZJ.
there are 2 pages one in lamps explaining it , then the schemaitcs called WIRING..
The jeep was built for sale in Canada. I've had it 14 years. Befor that my father owned it for 5 years. I have a complete maintenance history of the vehicle. This is the first thing that has ever gone wrong with it electrically.
Thanks Fossil! The Jeep was built in Michigan, USA. It was bought brand new in British Columbia, Canada. It came with running lights and it is a left hand drive.
VIN 1J4GZ58SOSC767317. Thanks for the link. It has been very useful. But still no success in locating it.
,oops the market code is not in the vin, its on the body code plage. , the FSM chapter that covers this , is named, INTRODUCTION, page 2, BODY code plate. open hood, its on the top left side of Radiator Reinforcement brace. it has 1 to 7 lines of data. bottom line is #1 line. and has 3 digit tanny code, the 1 letter market code (bingo) and then the VIN at end. then the market code. U-C-B-M (this tells the market (target) to be sold. this is all that matters, this one letter. this one leter changes what you read on every page in the FSM. now I will decode this.
edit plage = plate.
BIG secret that ( U= USA, C = canada, guess at B- British Columbia? M=Mexico?
as i said, Canada allowed gray market cars, until 1998 so only this code matters.. if you bought a USA car, then it was retrofitted with and Aftermarket DRL (manyt types). (required in canada)
when you buy a car in USA its got a U code, in canada, it can be other codes. My guess is that the car is not C code. the USA car as a lamp outage module, at left quarter corner time panel. and overloads if traile lights are added illegally (over 5amps) the LAMP chaper covers that, the DRL it say (factory) has an internal circuit break and autoresets in 60seconds , a key factor in diagnosis.
Im reading that same , LAMP chapter, now, page 7 and it shows DRL module , directectly below the PDC, the PDC is the underhood main fuse box. the USA car also has an autohead lamp on ,module (and options) so on some GC, Headlamps can fail for 3 models. and the usual. HL, switch/fuse./wires.
find the body tag and we can put market to bed, it be a waste of time looking for a Canada module that was NEVER there.
IM here, in the FSM. see it?
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-b...
Bad news Fossil. The jeep was in an accident in 2000. It has all the wright stickers on it, but nobody transfered the body code plate. Thanks for all your help, it is greatfully appreciated. If you have any ideas I would be greatful. Other than that keep following this. Iwill let you know what I find. I have some work to do to fix this. Once again THANKS.
bummer.. but if that DRL connector, in the harness below the PDC, if that is missing, ,it's a USA car, (U-code) and is not C code , canada car, so that means, its hacked, that is , the DRL is not STOCK but is aftermarket, that fact puts you, reading ever black box on car, (oem or not?, say to self? ) 1 by 1, or follow the lowbeam wire, see that color, it goes to an aftermarket, DRL box. , find that box, then get the name off it and p./n and you have a path to sucesses.
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