Lifter noise only in the morning upon cranking

1. You have to replace the lifters on both sides. Can't just do one.
2. Use a compression tester screwed in at #1 cyl. crank engine and adjust in and ext for #1 to get 120psi. Then on to the next. Note pull all plugs b4 you start

3. reinstall plugs now it will start and no lifter noise
4. you fuel is fine don't pull anymore wires.

Mike

I am assuming that you used el cheapo oil filter rather than a known brand in the service. Oil filters have a non drain back valve built into the filter to stop your problem but some cheap or wrong filters do not have this valve hence your problem.. The noise goes when the oil pressure fills up all the hydraulic lifters and oil pressure is achieved.

Are. You sure it's not injector noise....??????

Sounds like the hydrolic lifters, throw in a lifter treatment and see what happens, you might have to go with a thicker engine oil if its still there.

CLATTERING NOISE COULD BE WORN LIFTERS OR OIL CONTAMINATED WITH ANTIFREEZE OR GASOLINE.OR THE OIL PASSAGES IN BLOCK STOPPED UP WITH SLUDGE.TRY CHANGING ENGINE OIL AND FILTER ADD A CAN OF SEAFOAM TO CRANK CASE.DONT OVER FILL CRANK CASE.IF CLATTERING DOES STOP NEW OIL GET REAL BLACK DIRTY.YOU PROBABLY NEED TO CHANGE OIL FILTER AND OIL AGAIN.WHEN SEAFOAM CIRCULATE THROUGH THE ENGINE BLOCK FLUSHING OUT CARBON SLUDGE BUILD UP IN OIL PASSAGES.IT WILL GO TO OIL CRANK CASE GETTING NEW OIL DIRTY.SO CHANGE ENGINE OIL AGAIN.ONCE LIFTERS QUIET DOWN.IF LIFTERS NOISE CONTINUE.YOU NEED NEW LIFTERS.

not completely sure it has something to do with the auto trans, but more likely the hydraulic lifters. the older cars used to have a fixed valve clearance with tappets, but now they use hydraulic lifters. the problem with these is if you don't change the oil at a regular interval or do alot of stop-start driving, the oil becomes sludgy and does not flow into the small tolerance holes in the lifters. the beautiful thing about oil is that it thins out as it gets hotter to a point, so as the engine warms up, the oil thins out and flows into the lifter hydraulically pumping them up and closing the gap, i would suggest to change the engine oil to manufacturer's specs and add a "lifter free" product, after a few weeks it will reduce dramatically

There are two mechanical noises you will hear from an engine, lifter noise, wrist pin slap, and rod bearing noise. The only one that will go away, if at all, with engine warm-up, is lifter noise. All assuming of course, the noise is coming from the engine, and not any of the externally mounted accessories.
Have the oil changed, and continue to change every 2000-3000 miles with a good quality oil, maybe the lifter will clear itself. If it does, maintain the oil changes for the next few changes to assure it is cleaning out.
You might also try adding 1-2 pints Berrymen's Chemtool to the oil 200-300 miles before you plan to change the oil.

What kinda batteries do you got? Are the cables any good? Sounds to me like a power/ground issuse. Either that or you have to small of batteries to crank over a high compession enigne when it's cold, with the glow plugs, and heater grid pulling all of the power from the batteries.
And check the trans fluid level for your problem with the trans.
And you're gonna need to be a little more specific on the thunping noise.

HAVE YOU CHANGED OIL REGULARLY?WHAT ENGINE?4.7L:YOU MAY HAVE A STICKY LIFTER OR A TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER ISSUE..I WOULD CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER AND PUT SOME ADDITIVE IN ENGINE(LUCAS SEEMS TO WORK)
5.7L:LIFTER OR SOME PISTON SLAP..LET ME KNOW WHAT ENGINE IS IN VEHICLE AND SOME MORE INFO WOULD BE GOOD

adjust your valves your oil pickup tube needs to be adjusted you need feeler guages to adjust the valves down properly
make sure lifters and oil pick up tubes are not clogged

feeler guage is---> thin pieces of metal cut to different sizes to hold under valve adjusters till the play and chatter gone
check by book what the feeler size needed for adjustment