Remote works, doors make grinding sound,remote will lock but not unlock doors, drivers door lock pops up but all others do not, back hatch can only be opened by key. 2001 ford exedition, Keyless entry with code will work for drivers side only but I think it was that way before. Got a solution?
THE ONLY WAY TO FIND AND TRY AND FIX PROBLEM THAT IS YOU'LL HAVE TO REMOVE THE DOOR PANELS THAT ARE MAKING THE GRINDING SOUND, AFTER YOU REMOVE THE PANEL TRY TO OPEN THE WINDOW WITH THE REMOTE AND THIS TIME YOU'LL SEE WHATS MAKING THE GRINDING SOUND...MY GUESS IS THAT THE GLASS COULD BE OF THE TRACK. AND WHEN YOU USE THE REMOTE THE FORCE OF MOTOR AND GLASS CAUSES THE GRINDING SOUND..
GOOD LUCK.
SOURCE: Keyless Entry and Remote
I have had this problem take you drivers door put your key and un-lock from the out side with key (NO) then open the door push un-lock from the inside button and then set from you remote and it should set if not push un-lock then lock and then do the un-lock with the key. Let me know if that works. what my car did was locked from the inside and I had the problem were it would not work till I un-locked from the out side plus I had to go to radio shack and change the battery from the control.
Hope good happens.
Nikki2913
SOURCE: locks not working properly
been there ------open up the rubber connector between the drivers door and the body [by the door hinges ] the wires break from flexing. just solder or **** connector them back together. it helps to add some wire to one of the broken ends to make it easier to connect . there may be more than 1 wire broken
SOURCE: Drivers power lock will not unlock with remote.
the door lock actuator is defective, they get really hard to move when they go bad, that is why the difficulty with the key.
SOURCE: remote keyless entry will not unlock vehicle, but interior elec power works, NO ENGINE!
I had the same problem with my 2007 Sahara Unlimited. I'll make a long story as short as possible. For a number of years my son ran a Chrysler / Jeep dealership and I contacted him (I bought my Jeep from him before he got out of the business) and he told me this is a sporadic problem with the Wrangler line. To the point of calling him I had tried everything and nothing worked...insert key, turn, nothing...all electrical worked, lights, power windows, radio, etc, etc. He told me to disconnect the negative power connection on the battery for a second or two then re-attach. Insert key, engine starts, everything works as advertised.
Essentially, my son told me this "re-boots" the system. For whatever, and to his knowledge, never explained by Jeep, this fix works but no idea as to why it happens in the first place.
Hope this is of some help...though I suggest that there may be more "fixes" to this problem.
Regards...
SOURCE: hatch-back door will not open
I can say I have had the same problem, only the back doors and the rear hatch/glass won't open using keyless remote from them freezing this Winter. The front two driver/passenger doors will unlock with keyless remote but none of the rear doors, hatch or glass. Since I had to replace the stoplight bulbs in the rear with one not working and I don't need a ticket on Memorial Day weekend (need to replace 2 at the same time is wise according to any good mechanic), I had to get the rear hatch open to get to the lamp assembly and replace the bulbs. My thinking was that since my two front locks were opening but no others and my keyless remotes are working, it has to be a fuse or relay that is not working! So, I talked with a NAPA rep and he said the "Day running lights" relay can be a temporary fix to get the rear locks open to replace the bulbs. I looked up in the owners manual where both relay's are located and removed the "Locked" relay and "Day running lights" relay and put the "Day running lights" into the same slot where the "Locked" relay was not operating and it worked! I got the doors unlocked and replaced my stoplight bubs replaced. Now, I have a new problem, my Tahoe won't start!! I'm assuming the relay wasn't supposed to stay in the wrong slot when operating the vehicle because I started the truck, and it started and died-started and died-same and again. I think the wrong fuse can be used to fix another problem like a fuse. But, a fuse you can leave in and deal with one operation in the vehicle not working until you can replace the fuse later when you purchase it. But, not a relay! Now, I think the confused electronics cause another component (possibly the fuel pump relay) to burn out with the wrong relay in place of another when the vehicle operates. I should have known but I was so glad to get the doors open after two months and it being Memorial Day weekend. Now I have to find out what else is wrong so don't make that mistake to avoid the same predicament. Better to get the relay ordered and replaced than to have this happen to you.
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Passenger front door lock switch
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LH rear door lock switch
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RH rear door lock switch
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LH middle door lock switch (w/ V4U)
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RH middle door lock switch (w/ V4U)
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Driver door switch assembly (DDSA)
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Driver door module (DDM)
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Passenger front door module (PDM)
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LH rear door module (LRDM)
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RH rear door module (RRDM)
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Left middle door module (LMDM) (w/ V4U)
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Right middle door module (RMDM) (w/ V4U)
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Driver door lock actuator
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Passenger front door lock actuator
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LH rear door lock actuator
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RH rear door lock actuator
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LH middle door lock actuator (w/V4U)
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RH middle door lock actuator (w/ V4U)
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Driver door cylinder unlock switch
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Rear integration module (RIM)
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DRVMDL fuse (10-amp)
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PASS MDL fuse (10-amp)
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RRDR MDL fuse (10-amp)
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Class 2 serial data link
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