1995 Toyota 4 runner after I drive it for a while

SOURCE: Stalling

Possibly faulty ignition module is the problem, stalls when engine is hot when you sit for a while it cools off and runs again until it heats up again, those are usually the symptoms of a bad ignition module and after a while it may give out all together and not run at all, usually if the module is at fault it shuts down the fuel pump so the engine don't load up with fuel, do to when engine continuously cranks over the injectors never stop squirting fuel and flood the engine do to lack of spark which is produced by the module, this could possibly be your problem.

SOURCE: intermittant stalls & rough idle

You might have leaking injector(s) or injector O-ring(s). It could be leaking inside the fuel rail feeding fuel constantly. The pressure could be OK because the computer compensates by working the fuel pump harder in order to keep pressure within specs. I have a similar problem in my 99 Outback, it rough idles at stops intermittently. I recreated the problem, I checked it in my back yard, turned it on, let it warm up. Then I put it in gear went forward stopping and going with the e-brake until it rough idled. I got out put some bricks in front of the tires and started checking around. I noticed when it rough idles the transmission makes a constant sound. I would describe it as a fast ticking, sounds electronic. I tried messing with the idle by adjusting the TPS. I noticed that when I set the TPS to where there was little or no signal coming from it the sound would stop and the idle would be normal. I haven't had time to check it again but I don't know what to think of it.

John McCallum

• 32 Answers
• Posted on Jul 07, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 dodge grand caravan stalls

Check the sensors on the throttle body. There is a sensor that controls air to fuel ratio. If that sensor is bad then the car will run and then stall out while in drive. I had the same problem when it was cold outside last winter. If you dont want to dish out the money without knowing if it is that part at fault or not then start the van pop the hood and located the throttle body. Place your hand on the sensors and give them a little shake and then make sure they are plugged in all the way. You could also turn the van off and unhook the sensor clean the connectors and plug it back in. That should do the trick and if it doesnt stall anymore then I would replace those sensors if I was you. One more thing. If your giving the sensors a tug while the car is running and you hear it going to stall you could located the gas pedal cable and give it a rev or two by hand so it doesnt stall out and turn off. By the way. You van isnt over heating at all is it?

SOURCE: Car starts fine..Idle is fast...stalls after car warms up

Check for vacuum leaks. Also try cleaning the ISV.


If that doesnt work go to vwvortex.com and post your issue there

SOURCE: motor stalls when driving then starts and stalls right away.

Replace the distributor's magnetic pickup located inside the distributor surrounding the distributor shaft, the only other thing thankfully on this ignition system if memory serves me on the f 150 straight six 300 cu inch is the dura spark ignition control box, of course do the obvious tune up parts replacement dist.cap rotor,plug , sparkplugs before spending the $40.00 - $50.00 bucks on the dist.. pick up, you may have a weak a fuel pump check for adequate fuel pressure at carb 7 - 10 lbs.