I have been told 1) the accumulator may be the problem 2) the brakes may need bleeding (I have done this) 3) the seal in the master clyinder my be allowing oil to back up into the reservior and $0 old oil. Can you help as I have been quoted $3500 by Mitsubishi to fix it.
The most likely problem here is a faulty master cylinder . There is no residual pressure in the disc brakes lines but if you have rear drum brakes there is residual pressure here counteracted by the return springs holding the shoes in the cylinders.. Which ever you have with the pedal going to the floor but being able to be pumped up is an indication of air still in the lines or leaking piston rubbers in the master cylinder
Accumulator in a brake system (money from suckers) and $3500 to have it fixed (money from suckers). Find yourself an accredited brake and clutch shop and get a second opinion and check the results with a second quote Then you may be on the right track . I would recommend that you have another go at bleeding the system starting at the longest line first and ending at the shortest using the help of a friend . I would not be surprised that after getting some air out that the brakes suddenly work properly.
This is what happens when you do not do the required preventative maintenance [flushing the brake fluid every 2 years] If your old brake fluid was black, that means that you had not flushed it in at least 5 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic [fancy word meaning that it absorbs moisture over time]. The absorbed moisture will cause corrosion of the internal parts. The fluid will also be full of contaminates. These contaminates will, over time damage the hydraulic brake system. The most likely problem is that the master cylinder is ruined, because of your failure to flush the fluid in a timely [every 2 years] manner. Change the master cylinder first. If you still have the low pedal problem, that means that the ABS hydraulic control unit was damaged by your failure to flush the fluid in a timely manner. Are you starting to get the message that flushing the fluid in modern vehicles is important? That ABS hydraulic control unit is big bucks to replace. Much cheaper in the long run to take care of your vehicle by changing the fluids. I'm a professional mechanic. You can pay me now [less expensive] for preventative maintenance, or you can pay me later [WAY more expensive when expensive parts fail]
1st step would be to get the brake fluid flushed out so you have fresh fluid in the system. On a vehicle this should be done every 3-4 years regardless of miles. You just might have water in the system due to condensation and that could make the brakes spongy. The master cylinder could be bad, but change the fluid first before getting into replacing the master.
Also, get the rear brakes cleaned and the parking brake adjusted properly. The rears are drums and if the self adjusters get rusty and stick then the rear drums can get out of adjustment.
Once you have fresh fluid and the rear brakes set up properly if your brakes are still spongy then you start looking at the master cylinder, rubber sections of the brake lines (for evidence of swelling and softness), and the front calipers.
SOURCE: I have a 2006 Mitsubishi
hello .if you used the e brake when running the vehicle it could be that the brake bands broke off and thats the grinding noise ,or that the e brake internals like springs and adjusters are loose inside and thats the fhquot,: this is if the noise is coming from the rear tires . good luck
SOURCE: rear brakes pistons not retracting
I have resolved the problem by talking to my local car spares shop, they informed me that the rear pistons screw in as this is where the ABS system is. I purchased a specialist tool for £7 for the job but ended up using mole grips to turn the piston.
The brakes are now fitted and working perfectly.
SOURCE: Abnormal clutch pedal operation
You've replaced the master, the slave, now I would check to see if the throwout fork will move by hand. If you can move the fork by hand I would say that your pressure plate and or throwout bearing are worn out. First try to just gravity bleed the system. If that doesnt work, it may be time for a clutch, pressure plate, and bearing. The pressure plate spring pushes the pedal back up and depending on how many miles and driving habit those little arms on it break off and just wear out. I hope this helps you.
SOURCE: how do i replace the rear discs and pads on a mitsubishi
dont worrie about the e brake adjustment prie on the caliper to remove from caliper braket just get the tool to return the piston inside to caliper if looks like this you have to press in or if is a cross turn clock wise to push in 
SOURCE: mitsubishi delica 4x4 brake problems: hi! i have
If the pedal is spongy, then this almost always means there's still air in the system. The master cylinder may be defective, or possibly you have an expanding brake hose (unlikely given your description).
You say you have replaced the master cylinder rubbers, which suggests that there was a problem. Replacing the rubbers won't help if the cylinder itself is corroded.
Rebleed the brakes, starting with the rears. Ensure that the rear brake shoes are in fact adjusted out so that are LIGHTLY rubbing the drums when you turn the wheel. If the this adjustment is not done the brake pedal will give the symptoms you describe.
Check the front brake hoses for any damage. Have someone press the pedal and check that no hose is ballooning or leaking. Replace the hose(s) if required.
Check that the L and R calipers are not swapped. The bleed screw should be above the brake hose. Check that the caliper slides are lubricated.
Also check your wheel bearings. If these are worn the disk wobble will move the pads way off the rotor.
Finally, the master cylinder on your Delicia is most likely a 15/16" unit: this is cast into the side of the cylinder. Early 1990's Mitsu master cylinders are all very similar. They came in 13/16", 7/8", 15/16, 1" and 1 1/16" depending on the vehicle. Hence its possible to replace a 7/8" unit with a 1" unit and have a harder pedal.
If rebleeding the brakes does not cure the problem, and you have the 15/16" master (or bigger), replace the master cylinder with a rebuilt one.
SD
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