Question about 2002 Mitsubishi Montero

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I have replaced my brake pads. Had the discs machined and there are no oil leaks yet my pedal almost touches the floor if I dont pump it. what are the likely problems.

I have been told 1) the accumulator may be the problem 2) the brakes may need bleeding (I have done this) 3) the seal in the master clyinder my be allowing oil to back up into the reservior and $0 old oil. Can you help as I have been quoted $3500 by Mitsubishi to fix it.

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The most likely problem here is a faulty master cylinder . There is no residual pressure in the disc brakes lines but if you have rear drum brakes there is residual pressure here counteracted by the return springs holding the shoes in the cylinders.. Which ever you have with the pedal going to the floor but being able to be pumped up is an indication of air still in the lines or leaking piston rubbers in the master cylinder
Accumulator in a brake system (money from suckers) and $3500 to have it fixed (money from suckers). Find yourself an accredited brake and clutch shop and get a second opinion and check the results with a second quote Then you may be on the right track . I would recommend that you have another go at bleeding the system starting at the longest line first and ending at the shortest using the help of a friend . I would not be surprised that after getting some air out that the brakes suddenly work properly.

Posted on May 05, 2014

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This is what happens when you do not do the required preventative maintenance [flushing the brake fluid every 2 years] If your old brake fluid was black, that means that you had not flushed it in at least 5 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic [fancy word meaning that it absorbs moisture over time]. The absorbed moisture will cause corrosion of the internal parts. The fluid will also be full of contaminates. These contaminates will, over time damage the hydraulic brake system. The most likely problem is that the master cylinder is ruined, because of your failure to flush the fluid in a timely [every 2 years] manner. Change the master cylinder first. If you still have the low pedal problem, that means that the ABS hydraulic control unit was damaged by your failure to flush the fluid in a timely manner. Are you starting to get the message that flushing the fluid in modern vehicles is important? That ABS hydraulic control unit is big bucks to replace. Much cheaper in the long run to take care of your vehicle by changing the fluids. I'm a professional mechanic. You can pay me now [less expensive] for preventative maintenance, or you can pay me later [WAY more expensive when expensive parts fail]

Posted on Dec 16, 2014

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1st step would be to get the brake fluid flushed out so you have fresh fluid in the system. On a vehicle this should be done every 3-4 years regardless of miles. You just might have water in the system due to condensation and that could make the brakes spongy. The master cylinder could be bad, but change the fluid first before getting into replacing the master.

Also, get the rear brakes cleaned and the parking brake adjusted properly. The rears are drums and if the self adjusters get rusty and stick then the rear drums can get out of adjustment.

Once you have fresh fluid and the rear brakes set up properly if your brakes are still spongy then you start looking at the master cylinder, rubber sections of the brake lines (for evidence of swelling and softness), and the front calipers.

Posted on May 05, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Anonymous

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SOURCE: I have a 2006 Mitsubishi

hello .if you used the e brake when running the vehicle it could be that the brake bands broke off and thats the grinding noise ,or that the e brake internals like springs and adjusters are loose inside and thats the fhquot,: this is if the noise is coming from the rear tires . good luck

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: rear brakes pistons not retracting

I have resolved the problem by talking to my local car spares shop, they informed me that the rear pistons screw in as this is where the ABS system is. I purchased a specialist tool for £7 for the job but ended up using mole grips to turn the piston.
The brakes are now fitted and working perfectly.

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

Drew

  • 336 Answers

SOURCE: Abnormal clutch pedal operation

You've replaced the master, the slave, now I would check to see if the throwout fork will move by hand. If you can move the fork by hand I would say that your pressure plate and or throwout bearing are worn out. First try to just gravity bleed the system. If that doesnt work, it may be time for a clutch, pressure plate, and bearing. The pressure plate spring pushes the pedal back up and depending on how many miles and driving habit those little arms on it break off and just wear out. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Aug 19, 2009

marco valerio

  • 155 Answers

SOURCE: how do i replace the rear discs and pads on a mitsubishi

dont worrie about the e brake adjustment prie on the caliper to remove from caliper braket just get the tool to return the piston inside to caliper if looks like this you have to press in or if is a cross turn clock wise to push in 73e0f42.jpg

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

merlejen

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Mitsubishi Pajero, 1999, DiD, Abs and brake light on, no brakes!!

2002 Montero has high pitch sound from dash and brakes are hard

Posted on Jul 01, 2011

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You need to have the brakes bled. What happens is you pump up brakes and hold while another person unlooses brake line to lest out air in the brake fluid. Its down for all 4 brakes and then you will have a good brake pedal.

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WHEN FINISH REPLACING BRAKE PADS.MAKE SURE MASTER CYLINDER COVER ON FLUID LEVEL OKAY.YOU PUMP BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL BRAKE PEDAL GET FIRM HARD.IF BRAKE PEDAL KEEP GOING TO THE FLOOR YOU HAVE AIR IN THE HYDRALIC BRAKE SYSTEM.BRAKE SYSTEM NEED BLEEDING.DONT DRIVE VECHICLE IF BRAKE PEDAL FEEL SPONGY OR GO TO FLOOR.

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My chevy lumina and when you go down the road the brakes start to rub and can smell them burning pressure builds up in the brakes the more you drive


Sounds like a typical frozen brake caliper situation.
First thing to do is not drive this car any further as you may have severe problems on the road, using either a car lift or a floor jack and safety jack supports, locate by eye and/or by smell which wheel is burning and smoking,example: If the passenger front brake is the one at fault, you will need to replace "both front brake pads, possibly both front disc brake rotors and if the disc brake caliper has a frozen piston on the right front, both front disc brake calipers(which can be simply determined by trying to squeeze the piston back with a large clamp or special tool that is made specifically for this and is easily obtained and easy to use from any parts store(Auto Zone or the like ) may even lend you some of the tools you need if you buy the parts from them...how cool is that?
If the caliper piston won't press back into its bore, it needs to be replaced and always replace both calipers not one side, the same with replacing the brake pads, example: right front caliper and brake pads are defective, replace also the left front caliper and pads as well, to allow for a proper stopping action, be sure to replace the disc brake rotors when changing brake pads as well.
Also while inspecting the vehicles brake system check the brake hoses(Heavy rubber lines that connect from a metal brake connector to the back side of your brake caliper, each wheels brake caliper or (wheel cylinder,used on the older drum brake systems) has a brake hose) look for cracks and leaks in the hoses, replace as needed.
Be certain to also check all four wheel disc brakes for signs of wear, if the brake pad (asbestos material mounted on the metal brake pad backing plate, known as the "web") looks about the thickness of the metal "web" or thinner, replace the disc pads and or drum brake pads along with the rotors(dish looking object that disc brake pads actually squeeze against to stop the car).

BLEEDING or PURGING AIR FROM THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM:

The bleeding or purging of air from the hydraulic system in any brake system requires quite a bit of knowledge and patience, however, and if purging is needed ,two persons to do the job correctly.
First be certain the vehicle is jacked off the ground and secured on jack stands, start bleeding the furthest away brake from the master cylinder which is located under the hood on the drivers side firewall and be sure you have filled the master cylinder up with the proper recommended DOT (probably DOT lll or lV) brake fluid. Put the cover on the master cylinder once you have it filled and be aware to check the fluid level after each bleeding is done.
Step1:
After all your brake replacement work is done, fill master Cyl. and secure it's cover, be sure car is safely secured with jack stands , starting with both rear brakes/wheels off the ground(furthest from master cyl) have second person pumping(pushing the brake pedal up and down without letting off the pedal) this action forces any air in the hydraulic line to find its way out.
Pump pedal this way at least four to five pumps and hold the pedal down to the floor or as far as you can push it, don't let off the pedal, the person bleeding the passenger side rear disc brake caliper (furthest brake purge valve away from the master cylinder) will say "Ok, holld the pedal down", of course after he/she first told you to "Pump it up".
Step 2:
While the pedal is held tighly down the person bleeding will have located on the back of the disc brake caliper assembly a small(1/4 or 5/16 typical hex size) bleeder valve.
The valve must be opened with the proper size box wrench allowing the air to purge out(installing a small rubber hose on the end of the bleeder valve nipple approx. 1 1/2 ft. long and having it suspended and submerged into a clear plastic jar that is 3/4 full of new brake fluid in it) you will see and hear the air release and if using the jar system(I totally recommend) you will see the air bubbles escaping out of the submerged hose. Doing it this way also will not allow air to re enter the system if the person pumping the pedal should happen to release the pedal before you tell them to. Close the bleeder valve.
Step 3: Repeat the process on each wheel at least four times or until you see no visible signs of air coming out, remember, wrench and hose (secured tightly on bleeder valve nipple and submerged in fluid) "Pump it up,(3-4 pumps)" Hold it Down", open the bleeder valve and repeat this process until each wheel has clear fluid flowing out of the bleeder purge valves. Be certain all lines and valves are closed tight.
When the system is purged of all air, the pedal will be as good as the way it was when new, dont forget with all "Power" brake systems, the brake pedals will never be all the way up to the top when pressing the pedal down, it may also feel like it is low, but after a good road test you will see that the static feel of the pedal is not the same as the actual stopping feel of the pedal on the roadway driving.
The only time the feel of the brake pedal should be questioned is if it sinks to the floor, or if you can litterally pump the pedal up a few times and on the second or third static pump(static meaning the car is not moving) the pedal is actually getting higher off the floor, then you may have air still in the system.
If so repeat all the prceedures again being sure you have the master cylinder full of fluid before after and during the entire process.


This is a hard, dirty, and lengthy job, doing it yourself will save you hundreds of dollars, but if you do not work with safety being your primary concern, all the money saved is worthless.
Please be sure to wear the proper eye/hand protection, and wear a painters mask as well.
Happy Motoring!!

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2 Answers

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