What are Isuzu 6ev1 bucket to cam clearance specs

Intake 0.4mm(.016inch)--Exhaust 0.4mm(.016inch)cold settings.

Spec.'s Specifications.
torque ?
or clearances.
lots of specs, in book, the FSM is chock-a-block full of them.
methods too, TTY, torque or angle set, and staging.
lots of specs.

A good feeler gauge set and a basic set of sockets, wrenches, and a screw driver set will work for most engines. I hope this helps. Rod
Now first you check the clearance and record the clearances. If they are out you need to change the valve bucket (which comes in different sizes). This involves removing the camshaft to change the buckets and then reassemble and recheck the clearances. This is a big job and dealerships will often charge $1500 plus to do this job. I am going to post some info from a thread which will explain further. Many motorcycles are similar as well.

The general procedure for checking and adjusting the clearance based on having done this on bikes is;
Before removing old belt
Measure and record each intake and exhaust valve clearance using feelers gauges. Use the crank rotation sequence and measurement order listed in the manual, else you may get erroneous readings due to cam journal clearances and the valve springs pushing the cam around in the bearings. Some are not measured on the exact base of the cam (i.e suzuki)
Compare the readings to specification
If any are out of tol, calculate the difference between the reading and spec.
Remove the camshaft with the out of tolerance readings (usually both if one is out of tol).
Record the markings on the bottom of the buckets that are out of tolerance. (I usually like to measure these with a mike to verify markings and or determine if there is any measurable wear and adjust accordingly)
Refer to the list of available bucket sizes (from svc. manual or dealer parts counter)
Add or subtract the difference you calculated above to determine your new bucket size. (bikes typically tighten up so you end up going with a thinner shim, er bucket)
Order the buckets needed (sometimes you can swap them around between locations to minimize the qty needed to order).
Install new buckets in the proper locations.
Re-install cams, new belt, new tensioners, and new Idlers.
Repeat measurement process from above.
If measurements are in spec, you are done.
If not, repeat.

Last winter I checked the valve clearance on a 2001 Focus ZX3 with the 2.0L DOHC engine. It had about 85K on it. The clearances were all pretty close to nominal. I don't know the history on the car since new so they may have been adjusted at some time in its life. IIRC the interval for that car was 75K.

As I said above, bikes typically tighten up with this type of valve train. This is due to the valves seating deeper in the valve seats due to wear. This increases the installed height of the valve, decreasing the clearance to the cam. The rate of seat wear exceeds all other wear causing them to tighten.

Tight valves are worse than loose valves. Can eventually lead to low compression, and burnt valves.

If the wear of the cam, bucket, cam journal exceed that of the valve seat, the clearance will increase.

I don't know what the general trend on these engines are as far as tightening or loosening, but if they are like a bike, they will tighten.

I can tell you that on bikes if they are operated a significant amount of time near the red line, they will require more frequent adjustment compared to one operated more conservatively. A bike that is operated conservatively may not need any adjustment at the first inspection interval (not unusual for my Yamaha FZ1, 26,000 mile interval)

Sorry about being long winded, but I thought I would do a brain dump to help people understand the process.

I hope this helps. Rod

I don't understand you question because there is no clearance measurement. It is an interference engine, meaning if timing belt is installed incorrectly, or allow can shafts to spin while belt removed will cause valves to come into contact with piston bending valves and destroying engine. Valve height and lock groove height and valve guide clearance. All of which preformed with head removed and valve spring on bench. Total length of valve to check for tuliped valve, due to running very lean and/or got very hot. One or all cylinders, accordingly. So what are we fixing and from what year and model isusu? Mechanics aren't supposed to know how to spell.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/christpher_f760d0f18f8eedc3

Cam timing not correct on that bank. Veryify cam timing. Not sure if the engine is a "zero clearance" engine but, if so, the cam timing error may have bent some valves! Oh nooooo!

ill look up the specs to see if they are adjustable valve clearance like the 4 cyl petrol engine. if they are adjustable ill give you the clearances recommended if they happen to be hydraulic the best bet is a engine oil and filter change and with any luck that alone will help it out some what. may also be a idea with the engine running remove the oil filler cap and see visually that there is ample oil being splashed around rockers and cam shaft etc. hope to be able to help you with your problem

I can't get the cam timing whrite

It is not an easy process. It has cam buckets with shims under the cam lobes. You need to adjust them with different thickness shims. you need to measure the clearances then change the shims to adjust them. This may be able to be done with a special tool to hold down the valve otherwise the cam shafts need to be removed. I would reccomend checking the clearances whilst the valve bucket is at the back of the cam and if the clearance is close to that reccomended it will be ok. If they are out a long way have a Toyota specialist adjust them. Often they will not need adjusting for the life of the engine.

This is the specs for the 4H Diesel engine:
Intake valves clearance cold 0.4mm(.016inches)
Exhaust valve clearance cold 0.4mm(.016inches)

If your going to do do that much work , I would invest in a Chilton's or Haynes manual