Can i still have power brakes without abs assist?

If you follow that wire around you'll find the relay and fuse under the pump motor if I remember correctly however the hard pedal is almost always caused by a failed vacuum booster or the vacuum line between the engine intake and the booster, you don't have to disconnect the master cylinder brake lines to change the booster.

your problem is most likely the brake assist pump or controler

Have the abs removed and checked for operation. If you press the pedal hard enough to produce a skid but it doesn't then the abs is working. Under heavy braking from speed you will get a pulsating feeling in the pedal as the brakes are released and then re applied very quickly. If you are finding that no mater how hard you press there appears to be no assistance to brake then the problem will be in the booster and not the ABS.

You still have air in the brake system and this becomes evident when the operation of the booster allows the pedal to do down as it is compressing the air in the lines more efficiently than what you can do with your foot. Try starting the bleeding procedure but undoing the lines at the master cylinder and priming the unit first to get the air out of both sides of the unit. Tighten the lines and with the help of a assistant start at the longest line first and work back to the shortest. Booster failure will result in no assistance or engine stopping from a massive vacuum leak when the valves are opened. The abs is just a motor driven pump that supplies pressure to the brake system when the wheel sensors come into operation otherwise the brake pedal pressure is operating through the ABS unit to the brakes. (An ABS is only there to keep the brake pressure constant as the sensor opens and closes a valve to stop the wheel skidding . If it is not working then pressure from the pedal may bleed back leaving you with no brakes.)

Dodge used an ABS system for 2 years that didn't have a vacuum booster. Instead it used ABS pressure from the pump motor for the power brakes. This is the system you have. The ABS pump is mounted on top of the transmission. Is the pump running when the pedal is hard to push? Sometimes the pressure sensor in the ABS module will go bad and the pump won't run. You will get a hard pedal and the ABS light and the BRAKE lights will be on. The code in the ABS control module will be LOW BRAKE ACCUMULATOR PRESSURE.

This indicates you have an issue with your ABS control unit. ABS is a system that "pumps" the brakes in rapid succession to prevent wheel lockup during an emergency start. A common cause of sliding in wet weather, etc. To do this a computer control module uses plungers to open and close the brake fluid flow to the brake in miliseconds..so while you are pressing on brake pedal hard... the system is actually applying and releasing the brake in rapid succession (miliseconds) to prevent skid, etc. When teh computer module goes bad the ABS and Parking brake light will stay illuminated. There shoudl be an ABS fuse in your vehicle (please refer to your manual) that can be removed. Remove this fuse and check it for dirt, blown, cracks, or corosion. Replace the fuse and listen with the motor off if you hear a hum noise this would indicate the motor is running continuously for the brakes and is another indicator of a bad control. With the fuse removed both lights should stay continuously lit. If the motor is running continuously this can blow the ABS motor.. your brake system will still function with the fuse removed, but test it with a slow roll (no gas hand pushed car) The ABS controller is quite pricey to replace in the vehicle and should be referred to a licensed facility such as a dealer. YES dealers are high but to have this job done properly you need to have the vehicle raised on a platform. Your local brake shop, muffler shop, shadetree wont be able to do this control repair properly.

EIther the ABS pump is bad and will have to be repaired by the dealer or specialy licensed ABS mechanic, or you can do what I do and pull the ABS fuse under hood and not use them.

yeah you mostlikey have a abs pressure switch problem. which helps in the power assist , and or the seal in the brake booster is going bad

Had a similar problem a number of years back. Underneath the brake pedal arm is a small switch with a plunger. when you press the pedal down it moves the plunger in and engages the brake lights. when you let off it's supposed to pop back out (turning the lights back off). Possible it is getting stuck in the down position and could need to be replaced. very easy to install and only about an 8 dollar fix.

Your dealer is not lying to you.
All of the Toyota product line with ABS has this phenomenon. What Toyota has done is incorporate "Brake Force Distribution" into the braking system. What that means is there is now a sensor on the brake pedal/brake rod, going to the master cylinder. The sensor measures how FAST you press on the brake pedal. This activates the ABS pump, and supplies more brake fluid, harder, to reduce the time needed, such as a "panic stop"; the pedal travel is much longer than you are used to, because of the way they have to measure the speed of the rod being depressed. In actuality, this system is much better than the old system, as it also prevents wheel drag. It just takes a while to get used to. Really, there is nothing to worry about, I explain this same thing to my customers every week.

I hope this helps you out.

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