Question about 1987 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

Will a bad starter cause a no spark situation?

Complete electronic replacement, pickup coil, ignition module, coil ,relays, checked all fusible links. Starter still cranks, starting to make a slight grind noise. No spark. Was running very well, parked, shut it off. That was all she wrote hasn't started since. Been tracing wires for more than a week. PLEASE HELP

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  • Ford Master
  • 5,308 Answers

Https://s8.postimg.org/x2zc7x2bp/ignition_coil.jpg
Click on the link.
Did you check primary voltage to ignition coil? Goes hot with key on, red wire with green tracer. you can use a test light to check voltage.
For testing you can use digital multimeter across battery posts, have helper turn key to crank, how far does the reading drop? If it drops to zero, it is probable you won't have any spark. Generally it should not drop below 9 volts. Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good. As far as testing, if the battery is down, we're just spinning our wheels.

Posted on Dec 11, 2017

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Anonymous

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

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SOURCE: wont start

if i drive my bronco to work shut it off it wont start sounds like it has a dead battery if i let it sit for an hour it will start back up can you tell me if you know what it is

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

Anonymous

  • 47 Answers

SOURCE: Ford Ranger, 2003 no crank or start at all

Check your battery

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have ford ranger 2003,

You gatta find out if it has any type of theft system and most likely if it does then disconnect it because the computer for it may have malfuntioned and by u disconneting it will deactivate the security for the constint turning over and not starting... so figure that out first...

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

Anonymous

  • 79 Answers

SOURCE: After starting, the starter stays ingaged (GRIND)

shim the starter it sounds like it is staying engaged to the flywheel try shiming the starter

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1990 FORD F 150,SPARK ON THE COIL BUT NO FROM THE DISTRIBUTOR

i had the same problem. there is a group of wires that go by the distributer and branch off to the distributer and go towards the front. when i would jiggle it the van would die. it ended up being a pinched wire.

Posted on Aug 07, 2009

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1 Answer

I require simple wiring diagrams for a 1976 F150 pickup.


Use a test lite on negative side of coil, engine cranking, the lite should pulse?
It appears the vehicle has electronic ignition, There is a separate ignition module. In the wiring diagram, I can't guarantee the wire colors. The older my wirings diagrams are, it seems, the less accurate they are. I hope it is readable, If no spark, I'd check the ignition system, Check fuses--fusible links--battery connections.
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26298806-sfpzqccw001mk5jkucj51ii1-5-2.jpg

Oct 02, 2016 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

78 f250 battery backwards


Could be fusible Master link which is sometimes around battery and runs to fuse box. Looks like fat wire and melts connection from battery to body.

Another possibility is the wires to the Ignition switch. Most are inactive until the Ignition is turned on, but with reversed polarity things can happen.

Fusible Relays. You are lucky most of your truck is not computerized. But there may be an Ignition relay and a Light relay. Some had a grey module on the distributor.

Test for the fusible link first and see if it has melted. If you have power to the fuse box, check that there is power on the power side of the panel.

Nov 04, 2013 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

89 Comanche 4.0 inline 6cyl no power to pump and now no spark as well?


I'll try to help you, John.
For spark: If your spark plugs, spark plug wires, dist. cap, and rotor are good, check the coil. Take off the negative battery cable. Use an ohmmeter and check resistance between the coil primary positive terminal and the frame of the coil-ohmmeter should show infinite resistance, if not, replace coil. Put ohmmeter positive lead on coil primary positive terminal, and ohmmeter negative lead on coil primary negative terminal-resistance should be zero or nearly zero, if not, replace coil. Connect ohmmeter negative lead to the negative primary terminal and ohmmeter positive lead to the high voltage terminal of the coil. Ohmmeter should not show infinite resistance, if it does, replace coil.
If coil is good (or has been swapped), check that coil primary has power to it with key on. If it does, and no spark, the problem could be the ignition module or the pickup coil. The ignition module should be mounted with the ignition coil. The pickup coil is inside the distributor-this pickup coil is what tells the computer (ecu) the crankshaft position, so is critical for spark timing.

For the pump: the fuel pump relay is in the power distribution box under the hood. When the ignition switch's run wire energizes the relay's coil, power is sent to the pump. You could check for a signal on the pump wire at the tank, with the engine cranking Should be a steady signal then. If not, pull the relay out to check that the power feed for the pump is still there. The power to the relay comes from Fuse link G, a 20 amp rated green fuse link. It is hot at all times, so check for a power signal on one of the relay terminals with key off. One terminal should have power. If not, check fuse link G. If it does have power, put relay back in and have someone cycle the key-relay should click-may feel or hear it. If nothing, try a different relay. If relay was good, but no power to pump, pull relay and check terminals that relay plugs into: with key held in crank, two terminals at relay should have power-the power feed from fuse link G, and now the ignition switch signal to the relay coil side. If all checks out, probably a bad pump. If you checked for power at the tank with the engine cranking, and did have power, that is for sure a pump that needs replacing.
Good luck.

Sep 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

No fier from coil to dist fier running throught fier wall


Electronic engine control module-ecm no.1 yellow wire to eec power relay.white/light blue wire to red/light green wire at ignition switch and fusible link, from fusible link white/light blue wire to ignition coil and eec distributer module. the no. 1 yellow wire at the eec power relay should have voltage on it at all times, it also has a fusible link. good luck!

Aug 12, 2011 | 1990 Ford Bronco

1 Answer

Engine turns but does not start items replaced so


Check the starter solenoid, or igintion switch

Feb 18, 2011 | 1994 Lincoln Continental

2 Answers

No fire from distibutor


use a test light to see if there is voltage at the positive coil terminal with ignition key on. If yes, replace coil. If no voltage, find ignition relay in box under hood. Listen for relay to click when ignition is turned on. If no click, use test light to see if there are 2 hot inputs (with key on--there is only one hot with key off) to the relay at the socket. If yes, replace relay. If no, your ignition switch or wiring is bad.
If you replaced the coil and there is still no spark, your ignition system is not producing a signal. This could be caused by a bad modulator or pickup, but the troubleshooting is more difficult.
Any other questions, please reply.

Sep 12, 2010 | 1988 Chrysler LeBaron

1 Answer

My dad's 1986 Ford F250 pickup, 460 CI won't start, no lights,


It could only be a couple of things. First check the wires to the starter solenoid. There will be a positive cable from the battery to the relay. Then you will have two more wires that go to two terminals. Jump between the positive terminal and the starter terminal. It should crank over. Sounds like you already did this step. If it does not crank check your battery. If the battery is good and you have power to the relay then I would suspect the starter bendix is probably to blame. You can replace the bendix on the starter. If you still have no power you will need to start at the ignition switch. Hope this helps. Also the gas in the vehicles tank could be bad and causing it to not continue running. Sitting for a year with a fuel tank not full will allow condensation to occur in the fuel tank. Last but not least most fusible links are attached at the starter relay because this is where the main power distribution occures to the vehicles other systems

Nov 28, 2009 | 1986 Ford F 250

1 Answer

The Jeep has set for about 6 months. A week ago: battery dead, jumped it but would not start. I replaced the coil, jumped it and it started instantly and ran better than it has in years. Yesterday, I...


Check to see if you have spark at the coil. If you have spark at the coil and no spark at the plug, you probably have a bad distributor cap and/or rotor.

If there is no spark at the coil, you need to find out if there is voltage present at the B+ terminal of the coil.
No B+ could be anything from a bad ASD relay to a broken wire or burned fusible link.

If B+ voltage is present at the coil, the "NO-SPARK" condition could be caused by anything from a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) to a bad Ignition Control Module (ICM) To a bad Electronic Control Unit ((ECU) - AKA Engine Control Module)

Nov 02, 2009 | 1989 Jeep Grand Wagoneer

3 Answers

Wont start


this is a lis from auto zone that can help u fix that Shaun Priority Action Part Type Cause 1 Inspect Battery Damaged or faulty battery and/or connections. grey_line.gif 2 Inspect Coil - Ignition Damaged or faulty ignition coil or ignition coil circuit. grey_line.gif 3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or dirty fuel filter grey_line.gif 4 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator Faulty fuel injector pressure regulator or circuit. grey_line.gif 5 Inspect Fuel Pump Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits. grey_line.gif 6 Inspect Wireset Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s). grey_line.gif 7 Inspect Control Module-Ignition Faulty ignition control module or circuit. grey_line.gif 8 Inspect Solenoid Switch Damaged or faulty solenoid switch or solenoid switch circuit. grey_line.gif 9 Inspect Starter Damaged, worn, defective, or faulty starter or starter related circuit. grey_line.gif 10 Inspect Neutral Safety Switch Damaged or faulty neutral safety swittch or circuit. grey_line.gif 11 Inspect Fuse Corroded, burned, or shorted fuse may be interupting power source. grey_line.gif 12 Inspect Fusible Link Corroded, burned, or shorted fusible link may be interupting power source. grey_line.gif 13 Inspect Battery Cable Corroded, broken or poorly connected battery cable. grey_line.gif 14 Inspect Spark Plug Wire Loom - Performance Improperly adjusted or worn/malfunctioning carburetor. grey_line.gif 15 Inspect Distributor Cap Loose or cracked distributor cap grey_line.gif 16 Inspect Distributor Cap And Rotor Kit Loose, cracked, or worn distributor cap and ignition rotor. grey_line.gif 17 Inspect Fuel System Pressure Incorrect fuel pressure being delivered to carburetor or fuel injection system. grey_line.gif 18 Inspect Fuel Injector Plugged, dirty or poorly connected fuel injector. grey_line.gif 19 Inspect Ignition Switch Worn, damaged or faulty ignition switch or circuit. grey_line.gif 20 Inspect Spark Plug Fouled, damaged or broken spark plug(s). grey_line.gif 21 Inspect Belt Incorrectly routed, adjusted(tensioned), missing or worn drive belt(s). grey_line.gif 22 Inspect Timing Belt Slipped or broken timing belt. grey_line.gif 23 Inspect Timing Set Slipped timing chain or worn timing gear(s). grey_line.gif 24 Inspect Fuel Tank Contaminated fuel from rusted or deteriorated fuel tank. grey_line.gif 25 Inspect Ignition Timing Incorrectly adjusted engine timing. grey_line.gif

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3 Answers

1990 dodge shadow wont start no spark from coil


THERE IS A STATOR IN THE DISTRIBUTOR, THIS IS THE SAME AS A CRANK SENSOR, HAVE YOU CHANGED IT?

Nov 09, 2008 | 1990 Dodge Shadow

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