How do I adjust clutch cable on samurai 1987 - 1987 Suzuki Samurai

SOURCE: 87 samurai bolt torque specs for engine

The haynes book is not recommended since there are numerous mistakes and they still will not update. One of the biggest is the firing order.

The factory service manual is the only way to go.

Head bolts - 46 - 50.5 lbs (there is an order sequence for the bolts)

Intake & exhuast manifolds- 13.5 - 20 lbs

Flywheel - 41.5 - 47 lbs

Clutch cover - 13.5 - 20 lbs

SOURCE: 87 suzuki samurai - What are the symtoms of a bad

The symptoms of a bad throwout bearing is a horrible noise that ONLY occurs when you are pressing on the clutch. And/or you have no clutch action at all - the car is either in gear or it's in neutral. Sounds just like your situation alright.

Usually bad throwout bearings damage pressure plate fingers to the point that they need replacing too. And while they are in there, they will want to replace the clutch disk too. And then lathe the flywheel flat again so that they don't have a repeat customer complaining about the lousy clutch $job$ he just got. Flat flywheels supposedly won't chatter on take off or clutch engagement, but it could be hose job where you get soaked as well.

I went this route once on a gremlin - $500. The only reason I paid up was that I had a real good job at the time, and then I've never been back either.

SOURCE: I have a 1987 Samurai. On the fuel pump there is

I agree with pdrake1_61. It is a diaphram vent. Also, when the diaphram starts to go bad raw fuel will come out of the tube. Just replaced mine because of that.

SOURCE: Height of Clutch Pedal

It sould engage about 2 1/2 inches from the floor board.

SOURCE: how long will it take to repair a 87 suzuki samurai clutch, 4x4

Remove the shifter from inside, two connectors to the sensorson the trans at the firewall, remove 4 bolts holding front driveshaft to the front diff, slide rear section of front driveshaft out of the splines, remove 4 bolts holding rear driveshaft to transfer case and slide the driveshaft out of the transmission tailshaft, remove the two starter bolts ( hardest part of the job), leave the starter in the engine bay with the wires still attached, remove the clutch ARM from the transmission, remove the rear transmission mount (4 12mm bolts) support the transmission on a jack, put another jack in from of the engine to pitch the engine so the rear is sagging down slightly (this is so you have enough clearance to remove the transmission), remove the four 14 mm bellhousing bolts (remember the longer one goes onto the passenger side top) tip the tailshaft up to the floor of the Sammy and slide it to the rear as far as possible, let the front come down slowly ( it will barley rub the pressure plate but not enough to hurt anything) presto its out, replace the clutch assembly and grease throwout and transmission splines the reverse these steps. I have done 3 of these and accomplished my last one in 4 hours total. No need to remove the exhaust, transfer case or engine as others have stated on numerous write ups. You will need two 12mm combo wrenches, one 14mm combo wrench, one 3/8 drive ratchet with 12mm shortwell socket, a couple extensions for said ratchet, one small pair of pliers (to hold the clutch cable while adjusting) and a hammer to gently tap the clutch arm onto the splines.