No power going to ignition control module, what would cause this?

Try this: pull the relay out and check for two power signals on the terminals it plugs into with key on. With key off, only one terminal should show power- the power feed from the 30 amp fuse. With key on, you should also the signal from the ignition switch to the relay's coil side. If it's not there, the switch or the bcm is failing you. Try this: pull the relay out and check for two power signals on the terminals it plugs into with key on. With key off, only one terminal should show power- the power feed from the 30 amp fuse. With key on, you should also the signal from the ignition switch to the relay's coil side. If it's not there, the switch or the bcm is failing you.

I have done all tried all these suggestions thank you. Car died due to compression issue. Which compenants would cause the icm not to get spark. I got power going to fuse box and all fuses are good. Can tell if the connector to the icm is the issue, how can I figure that out? I have done all tried all these suggestions thank you. Car died due to compression issue. Which compenants would cause the icm not to get spark. I got power going to fuse box and all fuses are good. Can tell if the connector to the icm is the issue, how can I figure that out?

The pink wire is the primary current for the ignition coils. It is hot in run or start. When the computer sends a signal to the ICM, the icm cuts the primary current to the coils, and that is what causes spark to be created -out of the secondary windings of the coils, and to the spark plugs. the icm controls the ignition coils to create high voltage from them for spark at the plugs. The ecm controls the icm-it tells the icm when to cut the primary current to the coils. other parts of the ignition circuit would include the crank position sensor. The ecm computes timing of the spark depending on information from the crank signal. But it all depends on the coils getting power on the primary circuit-and that is what the pink wire to the icm does: a constant 12 volt power supply. The pink wire is the primary current for the ignition coils. It is hot in run or start. When the computer sends a signal to the ICM, the icm cuts the primary current to the coils, and that is what causes spark to be created -out of the secondary windings of the coils, and to the spark plugs. the icm controls the ignition coils to create high voltage from them for spark at the plugs. The ecm controls the icm-it tells the icm when to cut the primary current to the coils. other parts of the ignition circuit would include the crank position sensor. The ecm computes timing of the spark depending on information from the crank signal. But it all depends on the coils getting power on the primary circuit-and that is what the pink wire to the icm does: a constant 12 volt power supply.

Ok check voltage on the pink wire at the connector from the harness, it is not getting 12 volts. The wire looks fine, not frayed, What could be not allowing the power to come to the the connector? Ok check voltage on the pink wire at the connector from the harness, it is not getting 12 volts. The wire looks fine, not frayed, What could be not allowing the power to come to the the connector?

Is it possible to change connector without change the whole wire harness? Is it possible to change connector without change the whole wire harness?

Then the run/crank relay is not sending power to the pink wire through fuse 11. Do you understand this relay? It is vital that it sends constant power to the icm and to the injectors, and to the ecm. The relay has two sides-a power side (fuse 38, 30 amp fuse supplies the power side), and the coil side of relay-the ignition switch in on should send a current signal to the coil side. When the coil has energy it closes contacts in the relay on the power side so power is sent out on the power side. By cycling the key to on, you should feel the relay click under your finger. If it doesn't, pull the relay out, and check for voltage on the terminals it plugs into. With key on two terminals should show power-the feed on the power side, and the voltage from the key switch on the coil side. If you don't have this coil side signal, the relay won't turn on and send power out. If you can't get a voltmeter's leads into those terminals good, then use a wire or paper clip into the terminals and sticking up enough to test for power. If the key switch is not sending a signal there, either the switch or the BCM is not sending this signal to the relay. Then the run/crank relay is not sending power to the pink wire through fuse 11. Do you understand this relay? It is vital that it sends constant power to the icm and to the injectors, and to the ecm. The relay has two sides-a power side (fuse 38, 30 amp fuse supplies the power side), and the coil side of relay-the ignition switch in on should send a current signal to the coil side. When the coil has energy it closes contacts in the relay on the power side so power is sent out on the power side. By cycling the key to on, you should feel the relay click under your finger. If it doesn't, pull the relay out, and check for voltage on the terminals it plugs into. With key on two terminals should show power-the feed on the power side, and the voltage from the key switch on the coil side. If you don't have this coil side signal, the relay won't turn on and send power out. If you can't get a voltmeter's leads into those terminals good, then use a wire or paper clip into the terminals and sticking up enough to test for power. If the key switch is not sending a signal there, either the switch or the BCM is not sending this signal to the relay.

Before changing the connector, see if the relay is sending power anywhere. Pull off an injector connector and check for a steady 12 volts on one of the injector's connector terminals. Or pull fuse 11 or fuse 16: with key on, one terminal of each fuse place should have voltage on it. this is power from the run/crank relay. If you have power there on any of those places, the relay is on and the connector might be the problem. You can stick a straight pin into the pink wire before the connector anywhere and check for voltage there. If good voltage the connector is bad. If no voltage, you are back to the run/crank relay. You can also jumper the relay terminals on the power side and send power to the pink wire and to all the other things the relay supplies. The wiring diagram for the relay showing the power side may be etched on the side of the relay. throwing out all kinds of suggestions to try and help you figure it out. with a voltmeter you can check a lot. you switched relays-did they have the same part number? Before changing the connector, see if the relay is sending power anywhere. Pull off an injector connector and check for a steady 12 volts on one of the injector's connector terminals. Or pull fuse 11 or fuse 16: with key on, one terminal of each fuse place should have voltage on it. this is power from the run/crank relay. If you have power there on any of those places, the relay is on and the connector might be the problem. You can stick a straight pin into the pink wire before the connector anywhere and check for voltage there. If good voltage the connector is bad. If no voltage, you are back to the run/crank relay. You can also jumper the relay terminals on the power side and send power to the pink wire and to all the other things the relay supplies. The wiring diagram for the relay showing the power side may be etched on the side of the relay. throwing out all kinds of suggestions to try and help you figure it out. with a voltmeter you can check a lot. you switched relays-did they have the same part number?

Thank you for all your guidance, I figured it out, it was a blown fuse 11, look at the other day it was fine, nevertheless it fixed the issue, The car is running again. Thank you all again!! Thank you for all your guidance, I figured it out, it was a blown fuse 11, look at the other day it was fine, nevertheless it fixed the issue, The car is running again. Thank you all again!!