Question about 1998 Dodge Avenger

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1999 Avenger positive cable broke wire runs to fuse box

Wire broke that leads into post wires are also broke about an inch down its thick wire

Posted by Anonymous on


6 Suggested Answers



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Posted on Jan 02, 2017



  • 41 Answers

SOURCE: Wire attached to the Positive Battery Cable

disconnect power, with dvom ( volt meter) check for continuity in wire that was spliced. possible bad connection.

Posted on Sep 04, 2008

michigan man

edgar walker

  • 3533 Answers

SOURCE: alternator wire that runs to the fuse box melting.

if you have a salvage yard near you go there and find a durango with the same engine as your cut those wires of and your and then rewire it look at the dodge rams as well.

Posted on Mar 02, 2009


Johnny Brown

  • 5763 Answers

SOURCE: A wire, running from the hot battery post to what

just cut out and replace with another wire or if melted or broken off connection then yes hard wire it just add a fuse at the battery right after the connection good luck.

Posted on Nov 13, 2009


Chris Briggs

  • 160 Answers

SOURCE: I want to hook up an amp and speakers to my 2008

The remote wire is an accessory power source, like the ACC line from your radio. (usually the red one). Can also be hooked into anything that has 12v when the ignition is on, like a powered antenna.

Posted on Jan 05, 2010


  • 5531 Answers

SOURCE: where is the alternator fuse on a 2008 dodge avenger?

look in the fuse block, driver's side, forward corner of engine bay under the hood. I think the lid on the little box has the diagram underneath it, to locate the alternator fuse. Check all your fuses there, too.
I think the small plug-in connector with two wires on the alternator would be for the voltage regulator, wouldn't it?

Posted on Feb 14, 2012

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Do you have power on that wire as it goes into the fuse box ? And are the fuses hot with the key on ?

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1 Answer

Need pictures or exlanation of how to install a starter relay for

It's just an old Chevy starter! On that round starter solenoid, you will see two or three posts. One thick copper post, and one or two small
steel ones. The thick copper post you can't miss. It's about as thick as your little finger. The one, or two, small terminals, (Posts), are the thickness of a ball point pin refill.

You should have the Positive cable that comes down from the battery, connected to the thick post. There should -> also be two or three wires in a small wire loom, that connect to this post. This small wire loom will have a metal round terminal, that has a hole in it, large enough to go over this post. The battery cable goes on first, then this small wire loom terminal. Then a lock washer, and a brass nut.

If you have a solenoid with two small terminals, in the solenoid itself, next to the small posts, you may see -> ST,
and -> R. There should be a single wire, that comes down out of a wiring harness. It will have a round metal terminal end on it, and a hole in it, just large enough to slip over the small post. You want to connect it to the post with -> ST

All that is going on here, is that the solenoid is a magnetic switch.
If it wasn't present, you would have a thick wire, like that battery cable, going up to your ignition key switch. Instead you have a real small wire going to it.

Electricity for other circuits, like the lighting circuit, heat and air circuit, and so on, get their supply from the large solenoid post, also. That's what that two, or three wire, harness is for.

ST stands for Start. This is the Start side of the solenoid. R stands for Resistor. There was a wire used to connect to this small post, and it led up to a resistor mounted on the firewall, of older cars. These cars used a distributor with points in it. A wire went from the resistor over to the distributor.

Your solenoid may not have two small posts. It may just have one, with ST next to it, Or -> S

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Wire attached to the Positive Battery Cable

disconnect power, with dvom ( volt meter) check for continuity in wire that was spliced. possible bad connection.

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