Draging sound when turn left and rattle when hit small bump after long ride smels like something burning, engine runs outstanding
SOURCE: Cold Start Knock
That's actually pretty normal. It's just the engine warming up. Even my friend with a late model Acura has the same prolem so she warms it up before driving. I've heard experts say that warming up your car is just a waste of gas so I presume that the initial knocks are not to be worried about. Something to email Click and Clack on NPR about but I really don't think it's an issue. When I've had two cars run into the 200,000 mile range it didn't seem to be an issue. I always changed the oil before or at about 4k miles.
Take the car out for a long drive and enjoy it. And don't worry.
SOURCE: 98 volvo s70 stalling out, then finally after a day wouldnt start
If the air pump system is setting a fault, then the check valve is probably bad. If it is not addressed, eventually exhaust gases can run back through the air hose to the air filter housing and destroy the MAF sensor, causing these types of problems.
The fuel pump also fails and is a more likely cause of the stalling, and it wont set a code.
SOURCE: installation instructions/diagram for 1998 volvo s70 starter
IT is very easy get all of the intake ducts out of the way to get access to the starter motortakk off rubber boot and first disconnect neg battery terminal next unbolt two bolts that hold starter and the 3 wires and ground terminal from starter (i have a 14 millimeter wrench that i cuit in half to make removal easier) and you should be all-set
SOURCE: radio code ( 98 Volvo S70)
Look in the manual for the code - usually someone has written it in there. If not, call the nearest Volvo dealership and give them the VIN - they can tell you what your code is. Then, with the engine off, turn the key to the "I" position (Roman numeral one) and leave it for at least 4 hours. The radio should then read "Code. and you can enter the 4 digit number! Good Luck!
SOURCE: volvo s70 heater core
FIRST OF ALL YOU NEED A HAYNES OR CHILTON REPAIR MANUAL.IT WILL TELL YOU HOW TO GET TO HEATER CORE.AND YOU NEED TOOL NO.155 8957 DISCONNECT THE HEATER HOSES FROM HEATER CORE.AND YOU NEED A TORX 20 SCREW DRIVER TO REMOVE SOUND PROOFING PANEL TO DASHBOARD SCREWS.
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