SOURCE: 2003 V6 Jeep Liberty Limited how do I remove front brake rotor
Hole with notches is likely a torks screw Looks like an allan key hole with extra splines? they make a bit that fits in there. It's on the flat surface where the wheel mounts right?
pan bolt torque is in inch pounds (not a lot, around 10-15) generally
it's not necessary for exact because pans are a bit warped many times
and exact dosen't work anyhow. Tighten snugly without leaning into the
wrench, then check running and tighten anywhere that is seeping.
if it's dry after a week of running it's fine.It's important not to
crush the gasket. If you have one with a two piece dipstick tube
sometimes if the vent is a bit blocked the fluid can get out at the
connection between the two halves. I don't know if anything is
available to join them together better but I use a piece of hose over
them to keep water out off-road. Make sure the vent is clear. If it's
leaking, the only way to find the leak is to look carefully at
everything, clean off areas where there is too much gunk to see well.
pretty much the only place at the front that there is a seal is in the
pump and around the pump. it would leak down inside the bellhousing and
drip out onto the front of the pan rail after being blown back while
driving. Both seals are not accessible unless the unit is removed.
SOURCE: Torque setting for brake caliper mounting bracket
according to manual,
front caliper mounting bolts are 11 ft lbs
rear caliper mounting bolts are 220 inch lbs.
SOURCE: what is the torque on the brake caliper bolts for
Front 11 ft. lbs.
Rear 18 ft. lbs.
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SOURCE: Calipers do not fully release
The real problem may actually lie with the Brake Line Hoses. These are the Rubber Hoses that go from the metal brake line to the Calipers. Because of the changes in pressure, over time they will "fray" on the inside walls. These frays are gate like. Fluid will go out to the Calipers, but cannot return back up the line towards the Master Cylinder.
One easy way to check this, to find out where the problem is:
With the Hoses still attached, take the Calipers off, and remove the brake pads. Pump the brake several times to full expose the rubber dust boot around the Caliper Piston. DO NOT PUSH the Caliper all the way out! Using a block of wood and a 6-inch or larger C-clamp, place the block of wood over the Caliper Piston, place the C-clamp over the back side of the Caliper (do not put the C-clamp on the Hose connection). Screw the C-clamp in onto the wood onto the center most point of the Caliper Piston. The Caliper Piston should push straight back into the Caliper Bore with relative ease. However, if you encounter resistance- stop. Make sure the C-clamp is centered and pushing the Piston straight back evenly. If it is straight but still hard to push in, stop and remove the C-clamp and wood. Push on the Brake Pedal again to fully expose the Dust Boot around the Caliper Piston.Again do not push the Caliper Piston out of the Caliper!
Now remove the Brake Hose. To save on Brake Fluid loss, make sure you keep the Master Cylinder full, and the caps on tight.
After disconnection of the hose, raise the end of the hoses up and place in the Strut Coils.
Again using the C-clamp and wood, try pushing in the Caliper Piston back into the Caliper Bore (hole). If it now goes in without much resistance, the Calipers are fine and the Brake Hoses need to be replaced.
The Master Cylinder rarely fail but it is a possibility.
The other possibility is the Caliper Bolts and Guide Pins. These heat-up and warp, alowing the Caliper to work (brake) but then the Caliper will not release because these guides are warped.
I took the liberty to look-up the Parts and Prices:
(I don't work for them_
Autozone Part #70978 (driver-front) Hose for around $13.
Autozone Part #70979 (pass-front) Hose for around $13.
Autozone Part #H15911 (Caliper Guide Pin/Bolts) for around $5.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!
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