How can I replace a c v joint that is broken inside transaxle?

The passenger side axle shaft is the longer of the two. It is more prone to this problem since it is more unwieldy to handle. Chances are you did not get the axle shaft seated completely when you installed it. There is a snap ring on the spline that inserts into the transaxle and this ring must lock into its seat or the inner joint will vibrate loose and come out. It is fairly easy to seat it when installing, but care must be taken to avoid damage to the axle shaft. Once you insert the spline into the transaxle, press it firmly inward until you feel resistance. Then pull back on the axle shaft about 2 inches, but no more than that. You don't want to separate the inner boot or unseat the inner tri-pot bearings. Then, push the axle shaft forward quickly and firmly, much like a slide hammer. This will snap the shaft into the seat. You will feel it when it seats in. If once doesn't do it, repeat as necessary.

You will need a large socket to fit the nut on the end of the CV axle shaft. You will also need a breaker bar to remove this nut. You will need a torque wrench capable of achieving the correct torque when replacing the nut on the replacement shaft. You will need a relatively heavy (3-pound) hammer and a pry bar to remove the axle shaft from the transmission housing. You should break the axle nut loose prior to raising the vehicle off the ground as it is very tight and may not come loose easily once raised. If you use an impact wrench then the need to do this before raising the vehicle is not as great. You need to raise the vehicle on jack stand(s). Remove the wheel from the side you are replacing. Remove the brake caliper and rotor assembly as well. Remove the axle nut. The axle must be pulled free of the hub spline by pushing it out backwards. This is not usually possible without either (1) separating the lower ball joint from the lower control arm, or (2) unbolting the lower control arm assembly from the subframe and pulling it outward and to the side.
Be careful when pushing and pulling on the axle shaft. The outer CV joint is fixed, but the inner joint can be pulled out too far and become separated. This will make removal much more difficult. Once you have freed the outer CV joint from the hub, then you need to use the prybar and hammer to tap the inner joint out of the transaxle. It snaps in place and will take a few attempts to achieve. Be careful if trying to pry on the transaxle housing as it is cast metal and can break easily. Once you have the inner joint free you can remove the shaft. There may be some transmission fluid leak from the seal when you remove the shaft. Insert the new shaft into the transaxle. Push it in to snap it into place. You can pull back about an inch or two to help get the force necessary to pop it in, but again be careful not to overextend the inner joint. Once the inner joint is in place, slide the outer joint back through the hub splines. Reconnect the ball joint/lower control arm. Replace the axle nut (use the one supplied with the new shaft. Torque to proper specifications. Replace the rotor/caliper/wheel.

You'll need to extract the end the axle shaft from the hub bearing. There is not enough play in the axle shaft to allow this without at least partially removing the front strut assembly. Sometimes just separating the lower ball joint will allow the strut/spring to move enough to work the spline out the bearing. Once you've done that, then you must "pop" the inner CV joint out of the transaxle. It is installed with a snap ring to hold it in place. This process can be tricky and you can damage the CV joint or the transaxle case if you don't exercise caution while doing this. Be careful not to pull outward on the axle shaft...this will not release the inner joint and will most likely cause the inner joint to separate, making removal more difficult.

Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.

FRONT DRIVESHAFTS

REMOVAL

1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
2. Remove the cotter pin and nut lock Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut from the end of the stub axle.
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
4. Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
   
5. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
6. Remove the two front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts
7. Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
8. Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake Caliper Do not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
9. Remove the brake rotor from the hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
10. Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
11. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle Arm
12. Remove the steering knuckle to ball joint stud, clamping nut and bolt Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment from the steering knuckle.
13. Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering Knuckle Note: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut. NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
    
14. Pull steering knuckle assembly out and away from the outer C/V joint of the driveshaft assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
15. Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
16. Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.

INSTALLATION

1. Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
2. Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
3. Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
4. Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
5. Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
6. Slide drive shaft back into front hub and bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the stud of the ball joint assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
7. Install a new steering knuckle to ball joint clamping bolt and nut Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment Tighten the clamping bolt and nut to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
8. Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
9. Install braking disc on hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
10. Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
11. Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
12. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
13. Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
14. Lower vehicle.
15. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) Torquing Front Stub Axle To Hub Nut
16. Install the spring wave washer on the end of the stub axle.
17. Install the hub nut lock, and a new cotter pin Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock as shown in Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut
18. Check for correct fluid level in transaxle assembly. Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for the correct fluid level checking procedure for the type of transaxle being checked.
19. Set front toe on vehicle to required specification.

If you clean away the grease inside the boot and look where the axle goes into the joint there is a snap ring there. Spread the snap ring and pull the joint off the axle.

Clean the grease out of the joint and you will see a snap ring in a groove of the axle splined section, spread the snap ring and pull straight out to remove the joint.

moonpieeyes, You don't mention here what end you are having trouble with but I am going to assume that it is the end that goes into the transaxle. If you take a look at this end you will see a snap ring just before the end of the shaft. This ring keeps the axle from coming out too far as to cause a leak from the seal. You have to get this ring past the splined gear in the transaxle. Place the axle into the transaxle as far as it will go, make sure the splines are engaged, and then use a little force (push the axle straight in) to compress the snap ring and into its proper place. You will know when this is in place because the tulip portion of the axle will be very close to the transaxle and you will feel it "hit bottom". Continue with the rest of the reassembly. Good luck with this.

no you dont have to worrie about a gear or anything falling out there is a clip in the tranny that holds the shaft into the tranny so you might have to use a pry bar just dont pry on any kind of seal and the clip will not fall out either have a pan or something ready to catch any oil that may come out when you pull them.

CV-Joints
Overhaul
These vehicles use several different types of joints. Engine size, transaxle
type, whether the joint is an inboard or outboard joint, even which side of the
vehicle is being serviced could make a difference in joint type. Be sure to
properly identify the joint before attempting joint or boot replacement. Look
for identification numbers at the large end of the boots and/or on the end of
the metal retainer bands.

The 3 types of joints used are the Birfield Joint, (B.J.), the Tripod Joint
(T.J.) and the Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.).

NOTE: Do not disassemble a Birfield joint. Service with a new joint or
clean and repack using a new boot kit.

The distance between the large and small boot bands is important and should
be checked prior to and after boot service. This is so the boot will not be
installed either too loose or too tight, which could cause early wear and
cracking, allowing the grease to get out and water and dirt in, leading to early
joint failure.

NOTE: The driveshaft joints use special grease; do not add any grease
other than that supplied with the kit.

Double Offset Joint
To Remove:

NOTE: The Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.) is bigger than other joints
and, in these applications, is normally used as an inboard joint.

1. Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
   
2. Side cutter pliers can be used to cut the metal retaining bands. Remove the
   boot from the joint outer race.
   
3. Locate and remove the large circlip at the base of the joint. Remove the
   outer race (the body of the joint).
   
4. Remove the small snap ring and take off the inner race, cage and balls as an
   assembly. Clean the inner race, cage and balls without disassembling.
   
5. If the boot is to be reused, wipe the grease from the splines and wrap the
   splines in vinyl tape before sliding the boot from the shaft.
   
6. Remove the inner (D.O.J.) boot from the shaft. If the outer (B.J.) boot is
   to be replaced, remove the boot retainer rings and slide the boot down and off
   of the shaft at this time.

To Install:

NOTE: Be sure to tape the shaft splines before installing the boots.
Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease supplied
in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half being
used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot.

1. Install the cage onto the halfshaft so the small diameter side of the cage
   is installed first. With a brass drift pin, tap lightly and evenly around the
   inner race to install the race until it comes into contact with the rib of the
   shaft. Apply the specified grease to the inner race and cage and fit them
   together. Insert the balls into the cage.
   
2. Install the outer race (the body of the joint) after filling with the
   specified grease. The outer race should be filled with this grease.
   
3. Tighten the boot bands securely. Make sure the distance between the boot
   bands is correct.
   
4. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle.

Except Double Offset Joint
To Remove:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the halfshaft.
   
2. Use side cutter pliers to remove the metal retaining bands from the boot(s)
   that will be removed. Slide the boot from the T.J. case.
   
3. Remove the snap ring and the tripod joint spider assembly from the
   halfshaft. Do not disassemble the spider and use care in handling.
   
4. If the boot is be reused, wrap vinyl tape around the spline part of the
   shaft so the boot(s) will not be damaged when removed. Remove the dynamic
   damper, if used, and the boots from the shaft.

To Install:

1. Double check that the correct replacement parts are being installed. Wrap
   vinyl tape around the splines to protect the boot and install the boots and
   damper, if used, in the correct order.
   
2. Install the joint spider assembly to the shaft and install the snap ring.
   
3. Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease
   supplied in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half
   being used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot. Keep
   grease off the rubber part of the dynamic damper (if used).
   
4. Secure the boot bands with the halfshaft in a horizontal position. Make sure
   distance between boot bands is correct.
   
5. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle and reconnect the negative battery
   cable.

Check the CV-boot for wear









Removing the outer band from the CV-boot









Removing the inner band from the CV-boot









Removing the CV-boot from the joint housing









Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing boot









Removing the CV-joint housing assembly









Removing the CV-joint









Inspecting the CV-joint housing









Removing the CV-joint outer snap ring









Checking the CV-joint snap ring for wear









CV-joint snap ring (typical)









Removing the CV-joint assembly









Removing the CV-joint inner snap ring









Installing the CV-joint assembly (typical)

that is a common problem on the escort,it got so bad at our shop we took an old cv shaft that we took out of a escort we used a metal grinder and cut the center of the splined end of the shaft so it would fit around the keeper pin inside the tranny and it allows you to hit the end of the shaft and forcing it out but ofcourse you have to have atleast one axle out to knock out the side your having trouble with other than that a 5 pound hammer may help