I own a Suzuki Swift 1.3 DLX, 2010 model. I mostly run it on CNG, and occasionally on petrol. It has been running fine on CNG until a couple of weeks ago a strange problem has started. When the car is idle and AC on, the RPM drops drastically (around 600-700) and the car starts shaking. I have to push the accelerator harder to move it and to avoid the engine stopping. However, everything runs fine on petrol. Moreover, another problem has accompanied the above mentioned. When I (cold) start the car, the pick-up is almost zero and I have to pressed the full accelerator just to get 20km/hr. However, it becomes better after running for around 10 minutes. Any help will be appreciated.
No idea here i would suggest a visit to the garage that installed the gas conversion ,if i had my head inside the engine i might be able to work out whats wrong but from afar ? i stand no chance
SOURCE: Rough idle, Car shakes, sputters and misfires upon acceleration
It sounds like you may have a problem feeding the fuel to your engine, I had the same problem with my 89 RS. All the 1989 model's fuel systems were recalled. I think you may need a new fuel pump. The fuel pump is located inside the gas tank in the rear of the car right under the rear axle. The fuel pump itself isn't too expensive, but with other small parts such as the electrical harness upgrade and fuel filter and the labor you should be looking somewhere in the $500 range. I hope this helps.
SOURCE: Engine knock when going uphill +...
Oil pressure might actually be a bit high for idle. High or low oil pressure in an older engine tends to be indicative of some serious issues. Oil pressure that is too high tends to be a clue that you have serious carbon build up. That aside, have you tried running a higher octane fuel, or perhaps adding an octane booster to your normal grade? Pinging can become knocking in a badly worn engine. One recommendation: At your next oil change try substituting a quart of marvel mystery oil or lucas engine oil treatment in place of one quart of your normal oil. Both have some pretty good track records for helping to free up sticking valves and break up carbon in older engines. I'm an old timer myself, and I personally swear by Marvel for older engines. There is no "rebuild in a can" but Marvel comes close. Give those a shot, let me know what happens.
SOURCE: engine quits and won't restart
Sounds like a bad cell(s) in your battery. They will not hold a charge very well if they have been damaged or sometimes at all. Your charging system is probably running the engine most of the time which gives little room for charging the battery, and when it sits the little bit of charge is now just enough or not enough to get you going. If you can, try having the battery load tested (usually free) and also have a mechanic take a look at your alternator while your there. I think your alternator could be dying which is how you got a weak start from the battery if it turns out that the battery is ok.
SOURCE: 1998 Ford Taurus won't stay idled.
Check your oil stick and make sure the oil is at the right level.
SOURCE: For 2003 Mazda Protege ES model 2.0L 4cyl engine;
Check the air inlet boot going from the air filter to the intake for rips or holes. If rips exist, this would allow air to bypass the filter and mass air flow sensor and will lead to a check engine light appearing. The code would read "too lean, bank 1." If this problem is allowed to continue for long periods of time, the EGR ports will have to be cleaned out and maybe even the intake.
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