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Anonymous Posted on Aug 29, 2014

96 toyota 4runner rear door latch not working right

The key is fine the key way is fine. the problem is in the white box that the key rod effects

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 32 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 12, 2009

SOURCE: Power Window motor is bad in a 1991 4runner rear door

if its the back tailgate window you remove the cover that hides everything inside the door and use some tape to stick the window shut while removing the window mechanisim and then undo the motor its only held on with a few screew's and replace and put it back togeather and should be all good

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Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 07, 2009

SOURCE: 1987 toyota 4runner tailgate window stopped working

If you haven't already done so check fuses and all the obvious stuff first :P

The switch inside the truck and the key switch on the tailgate work from a ground source. That ground can be interrupted by 2 safety switches relating to the tailgate window operation. 1 safety switch is the top removal switch which is depressed when a specific bold that holds the fiberglass top is installed. It is located behind the drivers side trim panel in the cargo area about half way back from the rear seat. When you take that bolt out and take the top off you cant roll the window up. This is however most likely not the problem.

The second switch is actually inside the drivers side tailgate latch. This was the culprit when I had the same problem and seems to be a likely point of failure. First off, remove the switch for the window from the center consol and check the connector for ground on the common contact (usually center but check them all). If there is no continuity to ground then this is a sure sign that one of those safety switches is faulty (assuming no broken wires). You can check the first switch but is most likely a waste of time.

To remove the tailgate latch you first need to get the tailgate open and if your window doesn't work it needs to be rolled down first. Using any small gauge wire attach one end to a ground source and touch the other end to the connector contacts for the window switch you removed. One of the contacts to ground will roll the window down, the other up, and the third will do nothing that you will notice.

After the window is down, lower the tailgate and remove trim panel and everything else necessary to get to the drivers tailgate latch and remove it. It has a 2 wire connector attached to it. After it is removed place a jumper in the 2 wire connector and test your console switch for ground, if it has a ground then that was your problem.

I cant remember if the glass was in the way but if it is you can roll it up with the tailgate down with the jumper method above just have a friend lift the glass as it comes out so it doesn't damage or scratch it and have it braced with a table or something. Don't let the glass out with the tailgate down without helping it, it isn't designed to do so and could damage stuff.

When I pulled the latch and took it apart it was full of mud, I even removed the very tiny switch from it and took the switch apart to clean it. That part was very difficult because the parts were very small and not meant to be pulled apart very easily. The little contact was no larger in daimeter then a #2 pencil lead and only a 1/4" long and spring loaded when you open the switch. I cleaned everything, put it back together and it worked great.

That is until now, 2 years later it started doing the same thing again. I took great lengths in sealing everything to keep mud out and everthing and it only lasted 2 years, oh well. In short, it may be expensive but a new latch assembly might be a good idea. I have to do this job soon myself... again.

I would check for this problem before looking at the relay control because the relay control is a little more difficult to get to.

Anonymous

  • 13 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 12, 2009

SOURCE: 2003 toyota sequoia rear door latch broken

First, take off the license plate2_bing.gif.
Since the hatch wouldn't open, I started from the inside and took down the top trim piece. After that the two side pieces come down, then the main trim piece which covers the bulk of the door comes out. These are all popped in with the white tabs.
There are 3 access hole covers to pop out (don't forget to install them back in when done) and through the left hole you can see the mechanism to unlatch, press it down with a screwdriver and open the door. If anytime you close the door you will have to do this to unlatch, up until you disconnect the cable and pull out the handle, then you have to locate the cable and pull that directly.
Behind the large trim piece you will find a metal access cover, remove the 7 or 8 10mm bolts holding that on and pop the 3 white tabs and let it hang off to the side. Disconnect the cable from the handle assembly by reaching in from the right hand side and popping of the cable from the handle assembly.
From the left and right access holes, locate the two 10mm nuts which hold the license plate assembly to the door and remove them. Then there are 4 plastic tabs that come in from the outside that hold the license plate assembly on in each corner, try and locate those and using some pliers squeeze them together and push it through. Next locate the license plate lamps wire connector and release that from the left side, it’s the simple push in and pull out square white connector.
After these are out, put back in 1 or 2 bolts into the large metal access cover so the hatch can be lowered (don’t close it).
Here is where I had fun, begin to pop out the assembly that it was bolted to. I ended up breaking 3 of the 4 plastic tabs in each corner because I did not use pliers from the other side to pull them out, however it remained somewhat useable (hindsight 20/20).
Now the license plate assembly can be taken to a bench to replace the handle assembly (Toyota doesn't sell just the handle, it is a small assembly). Two screws out and the assembly is replaced.
Before pressing the license plate assembly back onto the truck, make certain all the plastic tabs are in the assembly and not in the truck. Reverse the process to re-install.

scotty560

  • 8 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 25, 2011

SOURCE: 2001 Toyota Sienna r.h. sliding door ''rear latch switch'' location

To start, the noun "''rear latch switch'' is incorrect. It's actually called "Slide Door Lock". It's located on page BO-20 of the Toyota Repair Manual for the 2001 Sienna. There are two door locks on one sliding door. One in the front and one in the rear. Obviously, you want the one in the rear. The location for the "Slide Door Lock" (which also contains an electric switch) is in the rear of the sliding door located mid way up door. You can see (sliding door opened from the back) it without dissembling the door. And, the lock is made up of plastic (dirty white in color).

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 13, 2012

SOURCE: How do i repair left rear door latch on a 2007 chevy express cargo van. when i pull on the handle, the door stays latched. I think the latch rods seperated from the handle

You will need to remove the door panel and inspect the latch rods, one may be off the latch.

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The 2003 Toyota 4Runner should have a small access cover in the lower center portion of the rear door trim panel. Removing this cover will give you access to the rear door lock/latch assembly. It could be that the actuator portion of the assembly has failed in the lock position. You'll need to manipulate the mechanism on the assembly in order to get the latch to release and the door to open. If you need more room to do so, the assist pull strap can be removed followed by the rear door trim panel; this will be difficult in the closed position but possible with minimal damage to the trim panel. I would plan on having a new rear door lock/latch assembly ready for installation as they are rarely fixed via lubrication. Rear gate lock/latch assembly replacement is very similar that of a trunk on a sedan which you can read about here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-replace-a-trunk-lock-actuator-by-michael-france
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I suspect the link came off the door latch. They are plastic and break. Rate as fixya if this helps.

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My problem was a small yellow plastic part that connects the outside and inside door handle rods was broken.

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I suspect that the back door ECU (the relay box that you speak of) is bad.
Unfortunatly common.
Here is how you check:
With the Key On, you should have 12 VDC in the Solid YELLOW wire going into the box.
Also, You should have power in the solid BLUE wire going into the box.
Operating the switches should transmit power to the BLUE with RED trace, and the VIOLEt with WHITE tracer.
If you have the right power as described abobe, the box is indeed bad. This is a dealer item only, cannot buy one at the local parts store. Sorry. Hope this helps.
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The fuse for the rear window is a 30amp fuse located under the drivers side of the dash. It should be the only 30 amp fuse in that fuse box. Also there is a relay that controls all the functions of the back door. It is located inside the rear door. Let me know if you need any further assistance.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jonathan_3a3c556b4b17d1d2

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