Question about 2007 Chrysler 300c AWD Sedan New Cars

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Need a non OEM headlamp washer pump for a 300c Chrysler! Any help out there?

Just need an alternative part that will fit or that can be made to fit so that this vehicle can pass the MOT. Yes new law says that if the headlight washers dont work its a fail but you can buy a new car with no spare wheel and that will pass an MOT!!

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6 Suggested Answers


6ya staff

  • 2 Answers


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


Keye Hernandez

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: Removing the windshield washer reservoir in a 2002 Chrysler T&C


  1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
  2. Remove the engine fresh air housing inside the engine compartment.
  3. Disconnect the washer hose at the in-line connector forward of the cowl grille so that the in-line connector remains with the washer hose from the fresh air plenum.
  4. Disconnect the washer hose from the hose clip located on the front fender side shield.
  5. Remove the filler tube screw.
  6. Hoist and support vehicle on hoist or jack stands.
  7. Remove the right front wheel and tire assembly.
  8. Disconnect the left right front wheelhouse splash shield and move aside.
  9. Drain washer fluid from the reservoir and into a suitable clean container. This can be done by disconnecting the windshield washer hose from the front (outboard) washer pump and allowing the washer fluid to drain into a container through a temporary jumper hose connected to the front washer pump.
  10. Disconnect the electrical body harness connectors to the washer pump motors and the fluid level sensor. Slide the red lock on the connector to the release position, then, depress the black tab and pull the connector off the pump or sensor.
  11. Remove the two reservoir mounting screws.
  12. Disconnect the reservoir from the body mount by raising the reservoir upward slightly and then down so that the reservoir filler neck and front washer hose pull through the opening in the front fender side shield.

  1. Push filler neck and front washer hose through the opening in the front fender side shield. Connect the reservoir to the body mount by lowering the reservoir down.
  2. Install the two reservoir mounting screws. Torque screws to 8.5 - 11.3 Nm (75 - 100 in. lbs.) .
  3. Connect the electrical body harness connectors to the washer pump motors and the fluid level sensor. Slide the red lock on the connector to the closed or locked position.
  4. Assure that washer is properly routed to prevent pinching and possible inoperative washers.
  5. Connect the left right front wheelhouse splash shield and move aside.
  6. Install the right front wheel and tire assembly.
  7. lower vehicle from hoist or jack stands.
  8. Install the filler tube screw. Torque screw to 8.5 - 11.3 Nm (75 - 100 in. lbs.) .
  9. Connect the washer hose to the hose clip located on the front fender side shield.
  10. Connect the washer hose at the in-line connector forward of the cowl grille.
  11. Install the engine fresh air housing inside the engine compartment.
  12. Connect the battery negative cable.
  13. Verify system operation.

Posted on Apr 01, 2009



  • 1986 Answers

SOURCE: headlamp bulbs for exchange chrysler 300M -00

If you're just changing the bulbs, then all you need to do is reach behind the top cover and then remove the cover off the back of the headlamp assembly

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

Testimonial: "Now is the new bulbs in place. Thanks."



  • 677 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2006 Chrysler 300C with the p1004 DTC

Code p1004 is "short runner valve performance"
There are 2 things Chrysler says in their bulletin :
1) RE-flash computer with a special "patch" from the
scan tool, and 2) Replace the intake plenum ( very expensive !)
This is the info I have, check back with a factory authorized Chrysler service center, and Please let me know what you find out.

Posted on Feb 06, 2010


  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: headlight bulb replacement on chrysler 300m

Parts Required: Change all the lights at once, it is not worth the anguish of doing this over and over again
2 low-beam lights, 2 high-beam/running lights, 2 parking lights - part nos in the owners manual

A can of diet coke to clean the battery terminals is also recommended. *optional

Tools required

Ratchet set : 10mm, 7mm, 6mm sockets
Extension 12"
Large Flat screwdriver, small 4" flat screwdriver and a pair of pliers
12" Magnetic tip telescoping bit

Surgical gloves

Battery terminal cleaner * optional

Step 1:

First take off the plastic cover that cover that is across the front of the engine compartment. 6 push pins hold it in place, Use the long flat screw driver to pry them up and use the pliers to pull them off.

Gently take the plastic cover off and set it aside.

Step 2:

Next you will see 3 push pins that hold the front grill to the engine housing, using the long flat and a pair of pliers pull the 3 push pins out.

Step 3:
In the upper area of each wheel well, you will see a large 2.5" rubber grommet. Pull the rubber grommet out

Step 4:
Locate a 6mm bolt head that is driven vertically upwards. It is not visible looking at the wheel well. You have to lay down on the floor and you will find it about a foot below the grommet and at the edge of the fender. Use the the ratchet to remove this bolt headed screw. It is about a 1.5" long. Do this for both sides before going to the next step

Step 5:

Start with the passenger side as it is easier. Use the flash light and peer into the fender area from the engine compartment. You will see a nut on a bolt, and a plastic fastener.
Use the 10mm socket on the 12" extension. Insert it into the hole where the grommet was, and guide the socket on the nut head. It is about an 1" long. Be careful as you take it off, else you will be fishing for the bolt in the fender.

Step 6:
Pull on the plastic fender in the front till the bolt head and the fastener exit the fender. This has to be repeated for each side.

Step 7:
Locate 8mm bolt heads on top of the light assembly. Note it is not the Philips head - they are to level the lamps. Before undoing the bolts, check the spirit level on top of the lamp assembly and make a note of the bubbles position. You will need this when you put the assembly back. Undo both bolts, they have about an 1" of thread on the top and then you have to pull it up physically or with the use of the pliers

Step 8:
Pull the headlight assembly out - gently. Don't scratch the paint work and don't damage the rubber molding around the light assembly.

Step 8a*: If you see any salt build up on the battery terminals, pour diet coke or pepsi on the terminals, this neutralizes all the salt. Then pour some water to clean the gunk and then with a paper towel dry it. Be careful with the paper towel, as it contains sulfuric acid and is corrosive, put in in a garbage bag immediately. If you feel it has come into contact with your skin, was vigorously before continuing.

Step 9:
Note the position of the connector before you do anything. Turn the retaining rings holding each bulb counter clock wise. When you do this the bulb assembly and the connector will pull free. Two instances of this. Remove assembly, and place securely on a table

Step 10:
Locate the parking light below and turn the connector clockwise as you are looking over it. Pull out the old bulb and replace it. Do this for both sides. Turn on the parking lights to ensure they work, try the signals too. No sense it putting it all back together and nothing works. Replace the holder and bulb in reverse order. Note the unit should fit in nicely and rotate smoothly as you turn counter clockwise this time.

Step 11:
Using the 4" flat screwdriver, lift the locking pins gently and push the bulb out, Start with the low beams. Low beam has only 1 filament, high-beam/running light has 2 filaments. Put on the pair of surgical gloves, and open the pack of new bulbs, push the bulbs into the empty sockets, until the locking pins click into place. Change the low-and high beams.

Step 12:
Insert the bulb with the connector in the position you noted in step 9. Slide the mounting ring and then lock it into place by turning it clock-wise as you are looking at it from the rear of the assembly. Repeat this for both the high beam and low beam. Slide assembly back into cavity. Repeat this for the other side. Test the bulbs light correctly

Step 13:
Gently push back the front plastic so that the bolt and the plastic stud enter the fender. Pay attention to ensure that the fender lining sits correctly. Using the 12" ratchet extension and the 10mm socket mount the bolt back on and tighten. Do this for both sides

Step 14:
Using the ratchet mount the 6mm fastener on to the fender. Do this for both sides

Step 15:
Mount the jack screws on top of the headlight assembly. Tighten till the bubble in the spirit level returns to the original position. Don't push the bolt past its maximum. If it doesn't return to the original level, loosen and adjust the headlamp assembly and re-tighten. Do this for both headlamps.

Step 16:
Replace the 3 push pins that hold the front grill to the engine compartment. Replace the large plastic panel that was removed in step 1 and remount it using the 6 push pins.

Voila - you have changed all the bulbs on the front of the 1999 300M.

Estimated time:
Novice 2 hours
Advanced 1 hour
Expert 45 mins

If you found this helpful, a quick note to the author George and Anna at would be appreciated.

Posted on Apr 02, 2010

SOURCE: 2005 Chrysler Pacifica Washer Pump

The washer pump is located in the bottom of your windsheild washer reservoir. You will have to remove the wheel well cover to access it and check the plug in harness to make sure it is connected. Place a voltmeter on the to leads of the harness and have an assistant push the windshield washer button with ignition on. There you will see if your getting volts to the end of the harness. If you do, then the pump is bad. Replace it while you have access to it.

Posted on Jan 13, 2011

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