Question about 2007 Chrysler 300c AWD Sedan New Cars
Just need an alternative part that will fit or that can be made to fit so that this vehicle can pass the MOT. Yes new law says that if the headlight washers dont work its a fail but you can buy a new car with no spare wheel and that will pass an MOT!!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
If you're just changing the bulbs, then all you need to do is reach behind the top cover and then remove the cover off the back of the headlamp assembly
Posted on Sep 08, 2009
Testimonial: "Now is the new bulbs in place. Thanks."
Code p1004 is "short runner valve performance"
There are 2 things Chrysler says in their bulletin :
1) RE-flash computer with a special "patch" from the
scan tool, and 2) Replace the intake plenum ( very expensive !)
This is the info I have, check back with a factory authorized Chrysler service center, and Please let me know what you find out.
Posted on Feb 06, 2010
Parts Required: Change all the lights at once, it is not worth the
anguish of doing this over and over again
2 low-beam lights, 2 high-beam/running lights, 2 parking lights - part nos in the owners manual
A can of diet coke to clean the battery terminals is also recommended. *optional
Ratchet set : 10mm, 7mm, 6mm sockets
Large Flat screwdriver, small 4" flat screwdriver and a pair of pliers
12" Magnetic tip telescoping bit
Battery terminal cleaner * optional
First take off the plastic cover that cover that is across the front of the engine compartment. 6 push pins hold it in place, Use the long flat screw driver to pry them up and use the pliers to pull them off.
Gently take the plastic cover off and set it aside.
Next you will see 3 push pins that hold the front grill to the engine housing, using the long flat and a pair of pliers pull the 3 push pins out.
In the upper area of each wheel well, you will see a large 2.5" rubber grommet. Pull the rubber grommet out
Locate a 6mm bolt head that is driven vertically upwards. It is not visible looking at the wheel well. You have to lay down on the floor and you will find it about a foot below the grommet and at the edge of the fender. Use the the ratchet to remove this bolt headed screw. It is about a 1.5" long. Do this for both sides before going to the next step
Start with the passenger side as it is easier. Use the flash light and peer into the fender area from the engine compartment. You will see a nut on a bolt, and a plastic fastener.
Use the 10mm socket on the 12" extension. Insert it into the hole where the grommet was, and guide the socket on the nut head. It is about an 1" long. Be careful as you take it off, else you will be fishing for the bolt in the fender.
Pull on the plastic fender in the front till the bolt head and the fastener exit the fender. This has to be repeated for each side.
Locate 8mm bolt heads on top of the light assembly. Note it is not the Philips head - they are to level the lamps. Before undoing the bolts, check the spirit level on top of the lamp assembly and make a note of the bubbles position. You will need this when you put the assembly back. Undo both bolts, they have about an 1" of thread on the top and then you have to pull it up physically or with the use of the pliers
Pull the headlight assembly out - gently. Don't scratch the paint work and don't damage the rubber molding around the light assembly.
Step 8a*: If you see any salt build up on the battery terminals, pour diet coke or pepsi on the terminals, this neutralizes all the salt. Then pour some water to clean the gunk and then with a paper towel dry it. Be careful with the paper towel, as it contains sulfuric acid and is corrosive, put in in a garbage bag immediately. If you feel it has come into contact with your skin, was vigorously before continuing.
Note the position of the connector before you do anything. Turn the retaining rings holding each bulb counter clock wise. When you do this the bulb assembly and the connector will pull free. Two instances of this. Remove assembly, and place securely on a table
Locate the parking light below and turn the connector clockwise as you are looking over it. Pull out the old bulb and replace it. Do this for both sides. Turn on the parking lights to ensure they work, try the signals too. No sense it putting it all back together and nothing works. Replace the holder and bulb in reverse order. Note the unit should fit in nicely and rotate smoothly as you turn counter clockwise this time.
Using the 4" flat screwdriver, lift the locking pins gently and push the bulb out, Start with the low beams. Low beam has only 1 filament, high-beam/running light has 2 filaments. Put on the pair of surgical gloves, and open the pack of new bulbs, push the bulbs into the empty sockets, until the locking pins click into place. Change the low-and high beams.
Insert the bulb with the connector in the position you noted in step 9. Slide the mounting ring and then lock it into place by turning it clock-wise as you are looking at it from the rear of the assembly. Repeat this for both the high beam and low beam. Slide assembly back into cavity. Repeat this for the other side. Test the bulbs light correctly
Gently push back the front plastic so that the bolt and the plastic stud enter the fender. Pay attention to ensure that the fender lining sits correctly. Using the 12" ratchet extension and the 10mm socket mount the bolt back on and tighten. Do this for both sides
Using the ratchet mount the 6mm fastener on to the fender. Do this for both sides
Mount the jack screws on top of the headlight assembly. Tighten till the bubble in the spirit level returns to the original position. Don't push the bolt past its maximum. If it doesn't return to the original level, loosen and adjust the headlamp assembly and re-tighten. Do this for both headlamps.
Replace the 3 push pins that hold the front grill to the engine compartment. Replace the large plastic panel that was removed in step 1 and remount it using the 6 push pins.
Voila - you have changed all the bulbs on the front of the 1999 300M.
Novice 2 hours
Advanced 1 hour
Expert 45 mins
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Posted on Apr 02, 2010
The washer pump is located in the bottom of your windsheild washer reservoir. You will have to remove the wheel well cover to access it and check the plug in harness to make sure it is connected. Place a voltmeter on the to leads of the harness and have an assistant push the windshield washer button with ignition on. There you will see if your getting volts to the end of the harness. If you do, then the pump is bad. Replace it while you have access to it.
Posted on Jan 13, 2011
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