Question about Dodge Ram 1500

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Speedometer not working and abs and brake light stay on

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Problem: I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 L HEMI. My ABS and Parking Brake lights were illuminated, and my speedometer needle would "bounce". Also when sitting at a stop sign or just sitting idle, the engine would stall, and often times stop running.

Solution: After long research on this problem, I decided to dig in and try to find the problem myself. I replaced the Rear ABS Sensor
($35) that's located on top of the rear differential. Still no fix. I then unplugged the ABS Controller (or Module) that's located directly behind the battery (You should see the metal brake lines running into the top of it.) When I unplugged it, I noticed LOTS of moisture in the plug. Using an air hose, I blew out the water and let it dry good. When I plugged it back in, and hooked the negative battery terminal back up THE PROBLEM WAS SOLVED!! Simple fix. Hope this helps.
Comments: Mar 01, 2010- I forgot about the Cruise issue. My cruise also stopped working, and I noticed my brake lights would stay lit anywhere from 2 to 10 seconds after lifting my foot off the brakes.
I simply replaced the brake pedal switch located just above the brake pedal. ($10) Took about 2 minutes if that.

Please rate and respond to both of my posts if this helps anyone else. I would like to get this solution posted all over the internet so we will no longer get ripped off by Dealerships for a simple fix. Thanks

Posted on Mar 01, 2010

  • 3 more comments 
  • kiskall Feb 13, 2011

    i have all the same problems but this fix didn't work on my truck, any other thoughts

  • EEG Flatline Feb 22, 2011

    Any cause/effect results to report?

  • douggeary Aug 23, 2011

    Just put my 2003 Dodge 15 in the shop today for the same problem. They tell me $875.00 to fix and replace the ECM unit which is the problem. Simply amazing but what you going to do.

  • Larry Miller
    Larry Miller Sep 11, 2012

    i did this on my dodge and it worked great thank you for the info great knowing how fast im going

  • Howard Paul
    Howard Paul Oct 09, 2015

    Thanks so much identical probs did the rear sensor with no luck then like you found water in the abs module multi plug thanks again saved me thousands $$$$$

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My 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 has this issue. One day I went to the movies and everything was tip top. After I came out, all of my lights (engine, air bag, seatbelt, ABS, and Brake) came on and my speedometer didn't work. ALSO (and this is the weird part) my heating / cooling system went completely unresponsive. My truck is stuck on maximum heat and won't shut off. Here's what I've done so far...

1. I unhooked my battery for 10 minutes. This turned off my engine, seat belt and air bag light.

2. I checked all my fuses. Nothing wrong there.

3. I took it to a car wash and paid extra for the under body cleaning. I figured since I haven't washed my car in 6 months the ABS sensors may have some break dust build up. When I pulled out of the wash I stopped at Wendy's and grabbed a burger and before my last bite EVERYTHING WAS BACK TO NORMAL. The car wash appeared to have fixed my truck! All lights were off. Speedometer worked. Heating / Cooling back to normal.

4. Excited, I took it into an auto-repair (non-dealer) shop to get my oil changed the same day. Once they were finished, I started it up and everything was back to how it was (broken). The shop owner gave me a free scan with his scanner and told me it was my Rear Differential ABS Sensor. That was the only thing it reported.

5. I replaced my Rear Differential ABS Sensor which did absolutely nothing. The ABS and brake light remained on. The speedometer still showed nothing. Basically wasted $40 and two hours of my time.

6. I went to the dealer and they wanted $110 just to hook it up to the computer. What a scam! It makes me sick. I managed to talk to a mechanic who pitied me enough to tell me that it is probably my wiring that connects all my ABS sensors since replacing the sensor didn't work. I asked him, "what about my heating / cooling?". He told me that those two problems are in no way related. He said the only thing they have in common is that they both talk to the main computer and that it going out must have been some freak coincidence. I still find that hard to believe.

8. I am going to check my all my brakes and the other two ABS sensors before I take it into the dealer. I am assuming that this is NOT the problem concerning my ABS / Brake light and Speedo not working.

8. God knows wtf is wrong with my heating / cooling. The fan won't change settings. It is stuck on heat and it will only blow on the floor and body. You can't change the settings.

The weirdest part of this whole experience is the car wash. What could that have possibly done to fix every single problem? I am assuming that it may be some faulty wiring and the under blast may have jarred something back into place? I'm under the impression that the H/C and indicator lights ARE related because the car wash fixed the problem for 30 minutes and failed simultaneously again. =(

Posted on Oct 14, 2009

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  • mrblonde_314
    mrblonde_314 Sep 12, 2010

    UPDATE:

    Gosh, I posted this 11 months ago and still haven't taken it into the dealer lol. I've been using a GPS for my speedometer and just ride with the windows down on summer days. I guarantee you're right about the BCM being bad because I took it into a repair shop and they said "It's probably your main cluster / computer which is something we can't fix here". He said it would cost about $500 to fix, hence why I haven't got it done yet. (I'm a poor student :[ .) When I originally posted, I also left out some problems so here they all are.

    The complete list of problems:

    CHECK LIGHTS
    -Engine light
    -ABS light
    -Brakes light
    -Airbag light
    -Seat-belt light

    -Speedometer
    -Mileage meter doesn't increase
    -Reverse lights don't light when I put it in reverse
    -Top brake light (on top of cab) doesn't work
    -Air conditioning
    -Air location control and temperature control don't work but the fan speed adjuster does.

    Since then, the "Lamp Out" light came on but I DID actually have a light out... which means that indicator was working fine. There have also been 2 or 3 times where EVERYTHING kicks back on again while I'm driving (like it did at the car wash) within the last year. It would only last until I would shut off the truck though and then continue to not work. Everything you said really makes me 100% sure it is the BCM by what you (and that other guy) said.

  • douggeary Aug 19, 2011

    Did you ever figure out your problem. I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 that just developed the exact same problem. Already replaced the speed sensor on the rear end with no success. Got is scheduled next week for a $75.00 diagnostic check and then go from there unless you have any new ideas.

  • mrblonde_314
    mrblonde_314 Aug 19, 2011

    @douggeary

    Lol nope... another 11 months go by and still have yet to do anything. I had another guy take a look at it and he thinks that there is a short or a ground issue with the wiring somewhere. I'd be interested to hear what a dodge/chrysler dealer's diagnostic machine reports. I have one of those universal pocket diagnostic machines (the same kind mom and pop auto repair shops use) and that's what reported the rear speed sensor, hence why I replaced it the first time, which obviously both you and I know isn't the issue. Apparently chrysler made it so you HAVE do get it diagnosed by their machine in order to pull the right codes.

    If this wasn't just my lumber / camper hauler I'd probably have gotten it fixed by now, but I barely drive the thing anymore. Good news is it's not a crucial problem cause the truck still runs great almost two years later lol.

  • jacnboxil Aug 29, 2011

    i'm haveing the same problem with my 2002 ram,

  • J Suvari Aug 04, 2012

    Fix for me was auto shop replaced ignition switch,$280 out the door. You can get the igniton switch for under $40 and do it yourself.

  • Demetrios Z
    Demetrios Z Sep 27, 2018

    Well they charge 110 bucks not just to hook up the scanner but to diagnose the code and get it fixed right the first time. Parts stores offer free code scanning but dont know why the code was tripped and just sell you parts. Its cheaper to pay the 110 and have it diagnosed right the first time

  • Spencer Frasher Sep 28, 2018

    This sounds like total BS...but...I had a Chevy pickup that I had done some battery work on. I put the terminals back on, positive then negative, as I always did. The heater came on high and wouldn't change, as your first problem was. I also could not get the radio to work and various dash lights stayed on. After a lot of research, I found out that the computer needed to be reset by removing the positive battery terminal while leaving the negative attached, count to 10 and put it back on. I seriously doubted it, but I tried it. Miraculously that fixed all of the problems! It's an easy try.

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  • 4,669 Answers

Replace the speed sensor in the rear differential

Posted on Jul 04, 2009

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My company used to repair body computers (BCM) for Chrysler/Dodge vehicles which contol the warnings you are getting. The car wash could be a major clue. We have seen numerous false intermittent warnings created due to fluid intrusion, such as water, into the BCM assembly. If this is the case, your final solution is to replace it and stop the leak or it will continue. It will have to come through a dealer since it must be programmed to your vehicle options.

If that is not the problem, I would think that your problem still is a result of the BCM. Sometimes the internal memory of its microcomputer becomes corrupted due to electrical spikes, etc. This causes the BCM to mock the same problems as fluid intrusion. Again, your BCM should be replaced and must come from the dealer.

The BCM's are programmed by a small network of authorized Mopar servicers who are equipped with proprietary equipment that can read/write to the microprocessor. This includes your mileage and is one reason why the service must go through the dealer. If you purchase one from a junk yard or used parts dealer, your mileage will not be correct and some of your options will not work.

Posted on Jan 08, 2010

  • 4 more comments 
  • mrblonde_314
    mrblonde_314 Sep 12, 2010

    UPDATE: Gosh, I posted this 11 months ago and still haven't taken it into the dealer lol. I've been using a GPS for my speedometer and just ride with the windows down on summer days. I guarantee you're right about the BCM being bad because I took it into a repair shop and they said "It's probably your main cluster / computer which is something we can't fix here". He said it would cost about $500 to fix, hence why I haven't got it done yet. (I'm a poor student :[ .) When I originally posted, I also left out some problems so here they all are.

    The complete list of problems:
    CHECK LIGHTS
    -Engine light
    -ABS light
    -Brakes light
    -Airbag light
    -Seat-belt light

    -Speedometer
    -Mileage meter doesn't increase
    -Reverse lights don't light when I put it in reverse
    -Top brake light (on top of cab) doesn't work
    -Air conditioning
    -Air location control and temperature control don't work but the fan speed adjuster does.

    Since then, the "Lamp Out" light came on but I DID actually have a light out... which means that indicator was working fine. There have also been 2 or 3 times where EVERYTHING kicks back on again while I'm driving (like it did at the car wash) within the last year. It would only last until I would shut off the truck though and then continue to not work. Everything you said really makes me 100% sure it is the BCM by what you (and that other guy) said.

  • maxapollo Sep 15, 2010

    What is a BCM ?? never heard that term used on a dodge truck

  • gon_fishin May 27, 2011

    Hi,
    I have a 2002 Dodge ram 1500 with 160,000 miles.
    As of three weeks ago I am now having the exact same problems as you are going through.

    My ABS light, brake light, and Service Engine soon lights are on. I have no speed indication, and I have no heat/fan control.
    This sounds really weird when I call a dodge dealership and explain this to the mechanic. So Far I'm down $200- I had the Speed sensor replaced and wasted money , as well as a mechanic hook it to a scanner and tell me he's never heard of it before.

    I was told I could replace the on board computer but it wasn't guaranteed to solve the problem at a cost of $1000 plus change.
    It's very frustrating considering the truck still has alot of life left in it. I'd hate to get rid of it for a simple electrical problem.
    Let me know if you've made any headway/

  • jacnboxil Aug 29, 2011

    my truck is doing the same thing:(

  • J Suvari Aug 04, 2012

    Same issue with my 2004 Dodge Ram (ABS,PBrake lights on, no speedo, no ac but fan is on

  • J Suvari Aug 04, 2012

    Fix for me was auto shop replaced ignition switch,$280 out the door. You can get the igniton switch for under $40 and do it yourself.

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I have a 98 ram 2500 w the 360 v8, Guess what? the exact same problems, abs and brake lights on, no speedo, check engine light, stalls now at stop lights. This sounds like a recall to me. Dodge are you listening? They should be fixing this problem for free, fortunately my car is an import.

Posted on Nov 25, 2011

  • gerry Dec 04, 2011

    Ok, heres an update. I actually went out and bought a rear diff speed sensor thinking I might as well try with the cheapest things first. Guess what? it's as good as new. I honestly didn't think it would fix the problem, especialy since my truck was stalling at every stop. I plugged it in and voila it's all good. Part was 75$ at the dealer prob could have got it cheaper at lordco or something but whatever, problem is solved.

  • Spencer Frasher Sep 28, 2018

    I unplugged mine and plugged it back in. Voila! It worked great...for about 6 months! Now that doesn't work anymore! LOL

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Same problem facing in Chevrolet captiva, DTC U0073, U0121 and P0500 ,,,,suddenly odometer stops working ,all needles(Temperature,rpm, speed etc.) showing 0 reading , ac stops cooling while blower keep running,reverse gear light stop working

Can anybody suggest solution?

Posted on Apr 15, 2019

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Audi a4 2001 lights air bags abs plus brake light blinking made 3 beeps when i start the car

Posted on Nov 18, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

csmock132

Clint Smock

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SOURCE: abs brake lights come on and stay on

Replace the speed sensor in the rear end.

Posted on Apr 05, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: ABS,Brake light "on" and speedometer not working correctly

Rear Sensor replacement 44.95 retail
Shop Labor 60.00
This will fix the ABS and Brake lights, will fix the speedometer isue and smooth out the erratic shifting.

Posted on May 19, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Speedometer, RPM, ABS, and Brake light

Assalamualykum.

Bro I had the same problem and the car is under repair now.

Check three points. 1) FUSES 2) ABS MUDULATOR 3) SPEED SENSOR

In most case it is the ABS MODULATOR, due to heating.

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

Anonymous

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: ABS and brake lights came

speed sensor most likly

Posted on Aug 23, 2008

Anonymous

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: ABS LIGHT AND BRAKE LIGHT STAY ILLUMINATED

As far as the cruise control look under the battery, drivers side one if a diesel and there is a vacume line for the cruise. This vacume line always breaks right under the battery causing the cruise not to work.. Ive owned 2 2nd gen dodges with non working cruises and this was the problem on both.

Posted on Feb 18, 2010

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