Car breaking down, sounds like it is in the wrong gear when driving eg in forth when you should be in second. Have to pull over and let it rest for a little while then it goes OK for a short time. Trouble with hills. Using way too much fuel. Changed O2 sensor, cam sensor, some other fuel sensor, coils, nothing seems to make it better.
Catalictic converter pluged ??? check in neutral if exaust properly when hot
Lost engine power, or transmission slips????
which is it?
the engine rpm tells you if the engine is weak or transmission slips.
2.0 liter , DOHC I4, J20 engine.
which transmission, my guess A/T box. (sounds like?) sure..
test one
1: in drive. pointed in safe direction, say a field or ?
2: parked, hand brake and foot brake held hard and fast.
3: race engine to wide open throttle for 1 to 3 seconds.
and lift right foot. after noting RPM. quckly.
4: rpm below 2200 rpm is a weak engine , if the engine spools
wildly up to 3500 rpm or more, the transmission is bad. (slips)
this is called the stall test. (in the FSM)
2,300 - 2,600 r/min. for H25/J20 engine
stall test passes. so does the transmission reach 4th gear.
1,2,3,4? yes/ .no.
yes, the its not the transmission.
if engine power lacks in any gear, that is the engine. weak.
this post is about the engine power, (my answer)
will you change 100 more parts guessing?
why do that?, any shop can diagnose it for a fraction of your guessing.
if the trans dont slip
both the engine and transmissions are complex
as is the vast number of tests to do. based on previous tests and logic.
do you want to test or gue$$?
Testimonial: "Not transmission. Have taken car in and no error codes come up so short of pulling motor to pieces and testing everything nothing they can do. No check engine light comes up either. Money is short so buying a part here or there is easier than spending several hundred/thousand dollars in one go just to find the problem. Not over heating. Fix something and car runs good for awhile except for fuel consumption and then it starts playing up again. Idles rough, sluggish up hills. Revs drop off when driving so need to pull over and let the car sit for about 10 minutes then it runs fine again for a short time. I was hoping that someone else may have experienced the same problem and might know what is wrong. But thanks for the info."
seems you need a real ASE shop to fix this, huh? my guess, is you took it to the shop , and its running good, they can't fix cars that run good. runs good for a short, that is this time, 1min, 1 day? sure weve had all those problems. the why to fix this is, only one way, we use phyiscs. the 3 classic test. in the propoer order, 1: lost compression hot. (a gauge check) 2: lost spark (the CMP loves to heat soak and spark dies) , 3: Lost fueling,(or flooding) simple test to find which it is. The key to finding this failure is at the 10 min failure point. ,seen many 2.0 up , fail or the cam shaft end CMP sensor. that like to fail hot , then work cold.
so went died, the mech, didnt check spark and the spark plug tips for dry or flooding,? really?
the scan tool works best , when the enigne fails to start, that is because all ECU/PCM clears spark errors (some) when it starts succesfully. case in point, the CMP or the CKP can clear as it cools, now makes spark and runs. fixing modern cars with no scan tool is near impossible.
read his post. see all the things your mech. failed to do? not even check for spark on a dead engine?
there are 2 sensors, for spark, the Cam and the crank the CMP and the CKP. both can and do fail.
this can go many ways, so here are some , engine dies, i crank it and CMP nor CKP throw errors, i check spark and its good, hummmmm , i pull she spark plugs, and all are soaking wet in fuel, i check fuel pressure its insane hiigh at 60psi, so i test the FPregulator, is bad, jammed inside. this is how do do #2 and #3 on ORDER list. or the sparks are dry, and the spark is ok, he then tries test fuel. it runs for 3seonds. and stop. sounds good too. but find fuel pressure , now at 0psi or 10.. he checks voltage at pump cranking its 6volts, oopss. but look here , this connect is all corrode.. this is called doing the basic tests, and letting the facts direct you to the cause, there are 100s of causes. guessing can work but, only if lucky. for sure,id have done 2 things at the stall, spark test. and spark tip , examinations! at the least. and scan tool connected cranking the dead engine.... the tool is only $9.
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Just to add. No check engine light comes on and there is no error codes either.
the CEL is only for smog, only a real scan tool can see live errors or pendingn erors. the CEL lamp is mostly a toy, (smog man deal) keep in mind we are just guessing here. if ia was next door,id find it, in 15mins. (as it died) for sure..
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/no-spa...
see this #1 top failure for you car, the CKP. that is a guess, , cardone sells rebuilds for $150
in a real shop,we up a COP coil extender on the cop boot to #1 spark plug and then connector our timing light. and check for correct timing, oops. its dead? oops it bounciing all over? , bad CKP. they do that. and are bad.
now with a scan tool step by step. 2 ways there are.
im driving and engine stalls the scan tool is there, i look over and see, bam P0340/355?, and it clear when i turn off the key..and back on.
now way 2: i connect the scan tool and keep it there until the engine fails, then I:
1:crank for 5 seconds, wow, P0340s , the ECU will show 340s if one pulse in 10 fails. the FSM explains those facts.
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