Not sure what you mean by tick over but pulse through pedal is usually from ABS / stability system. If you mean you feel this when first starting up vehicle it is probably system doing self test. They do self test at start but usually you don't feel it that much. May be nothing - especially if no light coming on. Only other pulse you may feel is if power brake booster is failing. If you are driving and brakes feel hard to push at times then I would suspect the brake booster for that.
SOURCE: Brake pedal pulsates when appling brakes
If the new rotors were not allow to seat after replacement they will warp extremely easily. Easy to check. Remove wheel and check for trueness of rotor, a dead give away is if you see a blueish tint on the rotor.
SOURCE: pulsation in brake pedal and rear end hops during braking
What happens is if you have a bad front wheel bearing when you brake that wheel will turn in or out,when this happens it throws the four wheel alignment out and since this is a solid rear axle,it's forcing it to flex on the suspension,wich could cause the rear tires to bite on the outside edge of one tire and the inside edge of the other,thats one possible the other would be that the rear brakes are are not slowing the wheels evenly causing the same issue.I saw this problem with a bad front wheel bearing on a Nissan Pathfinder but not as pronouced due to the independent rear suspension. Check the front wheel bearings,which of course will mean getting the calipers off the rotors,and then check for any movement in the rotor,if there is check the hub nut,if it's loose tighten it and check for play in the rotor if there is still play that's going to be caused by a bad bearing.You can check the braking in the rear with a simple spring scale(like the ones used for fishing),with the wheels removed have someone apply enough pedal pressure to just engage the brakes but still allow movement attach the scale hook to a wheel stud and pull until it starts to move and note how many pounds of pressure it takes to move the hub.If it's uneven chech your adjusters and even them if needed and then retest,if still uneven you'll need to bleed them again.As far as the dark black substance in the fluid I would say you may gotten a contaminent in the fluid.Brake fluid gets kind of a rusty reddish residue when it breaks down.If I missed anything or you need clarification don't hesitate to ask I'm home all day.Hope this helps solve your problem.
SOURCE: brake fade on a 1988 ford E350 motorhome
You might want to google recalls on the internet.
( http://www.recalls.gov/nhtsa.html )
I remember one such on that or the F-53 chassis.
SOURCE: my brakes are hard to push down and it sounds like
This one I can be fairly certain of. It sounds like a rip in the vacuum power brake booster diaphram. Usually you just replace the whole power brake chamber, which includes the diaphram. You have to first remove the 2 bolts holding the master cylinder to the larger booster chamber, but you don't normally have to open any brake lines.
When replacing, make sure the brake pedal rod goes down the center of the new booster, and that there is sufficient clearance or freeplay in the pedal rod when done. (like .1" is all you need)
Should not have to bleed after done.
SOURCE: I replaced both brake pads
The brake rotors need to be cut or replaced. There are high spots and low spots on the rotor, and due to this, the brake pedal will pulse when the brakes are applied. When ever brakes are replaced, the rotors should also be serviced.
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