Your problem is twofold:
There is about a zero percent chance that the bolt was replaced with a left-handed thread one, but there IS a chance you forgot one of the basic tenets of mechanix - mainly, "Righty-TIGHTY, Lefty-LOOSEY".
I think it is more likely you simply need the proper tools for the job, mainly a HIGH QUALITY (read "Profession Grade Lifetime Guarantee") 3/4" drive, the right-sized 6-POINT SOCKET, matched to a properly sized 3/4" extension bar (long enough to give you the whatever clearances you need to really lay the meat to twisting the bolt), and either a HIGH QUALITY solid 3/4" "Breaker Bar" or HIGH QUALITY 3/4" ratchet handle, either with at least a 16 inches or so of length, so you can truly "reef" on that puppy.
I do NOT mean any of the "Lifetime Guarantee" tools you can get at a big box store, I mean a true "Professional Quality" tools like Proto or Snap-On. Other makes like Craftsman and that ilk used to be good, but many years ago the manufacturers figured out they could make a LOT more money with really cheap tool steel and casting the words "Lifetime Guarantee" into the tools. I am sure you probably will not go too far out of your way to replace those tools that have already "melted" in your hands trying to do this "simple" job - and they count on that.
The proper 3/4 inch drive tools for that job - the socket, the extension and the long-handled ratchet or breaker-bar will likely cost more (x2) of what the new starter will cost. You will need to beg, borrow or steal them. I would not recommend attempting to steal them, as most mechanics who possess tools of that quality depend on them for their livelihood and safety, which is to say they love and trust them even more than their own spouse.
After you garner the right tools, you must figure out how to use them PROPERLY! Used improperly, you can turn trying to twist that one, single bolt off into an $800-plus major repair job in about 2 1/2 seconds, or even worse, you can easily EASILY knock every tooth out of the front of your face INSTANTLY, before you understand what hit you.
(Never EVER pull tools of that size and mass towards you, you always push them away from you while using!!!)
Pushing the handle away from you, you will also need to apply exactly the same amount of pressure in the opposite direction to the top of the handle or ratchet, all while pushing the whole assemble in towards the bolt, it at an additional equal or greater force.
In other words, you need to not simply turn the bolt off, you must work the forces in three separate directions, and all of them AWAY from you. That usually means you will be handling big, heavy tools in exactly the OPPOSITE direction as you did last time, using both hands to apply forces in x3 directions - and it will still be a "bear" to remove.
If you really choose to get the right tools and do this yourself, don't forget the additional items you will need:
1) Beer, all "Shade Tree Mechanics" work better with a few beers in them (it numbs the pain when the wrench slips),
2) BANDAGES and a Cell Phone; those little wrenches you initially used might cause a skinned knuckle or two, but the "Big Boys" will cause broken bones and major lacerations - the bandages help while waiting for the ambulance you might need the cell phone to call,
3) A helper - someone to hold your beer after you utter those famous last lines "Hold my beer, and watch this!", and who will call your mom later to tell you what hospital they took you to.
4) and last but not least, a brand-new, properly sized and length replacement bolt for the over-torqued one you are removing, and a properly pitched tap to chase the bunged up threads with.
There is a reason a good mechanic costs a few bucks: outside of the training, experience and $50,000.00 - plus worth the tools in that tool-box of his, he usually works in a pretty nice shop, not on his back under a truck in the Target parking lot, where some little old man in a three ton Cadillac, wearing a silly plaid hat and those goofy big "I've just been to the Optometrist and had my eyes dilated" sunglasses can run over his legs.
Good luck, Chad!
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Try heating up the block area where the bolts are with a torch a little bit you can also wrap on it with a hammer lightly will somebody tries turning it over at least get it out of there my fire up
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Did you try using a breaker bar such as a length of pipe to fit over the ratchet handle as this will give more leverage and power to your movement while pushing or pulling the ratchet towards you.
Hope this helps
Yes, that is a tough one. options are limited if your working in a remote place.
have you tried hitting the head to try jar the threads?
if you could heat it without starting your vehicle on fire, some times people put Loctite on the threads & heat will loosen them up.
a larger drive socket(if you can get it in there) will put more torque on the bolt.
the last resort would be to cut the head off of the bolt, then when starter is out remove the rest of the bolt.
Wow, that's a tough one. Whenever I or a friend encounter one like that we usually have to resort to using a torch. The danger is creating a fire so you must have a fire extinguisher handy. Get the whole area around that bolt hot to the point it is red. Then get your wrench on while hot and twist away. If you or someone you know has an impact wrench, those usually do better than just twisting. The hammering has a way of breaking things loose. Just make sure you are turning COUNTER clockwise. I caught myself turning the wrong way one time. Guess it was a brain hiccup or something. I got two of the three bolts out fine and for some reason the ratchet got switched so I was pulling tighter instead of loosening.
The hottest fuel I know of for simple hand held torches is called MAPP gas. The bottle is usually yellow.
Now would be a good time to have AAA towing to get your vehicle to your house. I have used AAA since 1969. Membership has saved me hundreds, maybe thousands of $$$ in those years. If you don't have AAA check with insurance, you might have towing on your regular policy.
BE CAREFUL.
If you decide to use the torch, Shield all wiring and hoses with insulation or wet towels.
Best of luck with that.
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SOURCE: The top bolt head was strip on the starter, what kind of tool can I use to get it off?
If metric, try using an American size on it even if you need to hammer it on (within reason) If American size go the other way with a metric socket.
SOURCE: How to get top bolt off of 1988 F250, 7.1 L diesel starter
You need a long extension and swivels for a rachet to get to the one bolt thats on top next to the block. Check for a way to get to it from the front.
SOURCE: I have a 2002 jetta. trouble removing oil pan
Get a flexible head ratchet or an adjustable "snake" attachment. The flexible head ratchet will move in several positions instead of just the 90 degree. That'll help in all those hard to reach places. You might be able to rent one at Autozone, but I would buy one because they really come in handy.
SOURCE: I have a 1998 Dodge Dakota 4x4, I notice a noise when turning.
You need to check your brakes ASAP. You may have metal on metal on your front pads. You may have a bearing problem if the brakes are in good shape. But check it out as soon as you can to prevent further damage.
SOURCE: Hi, husband is stuck in
Should be possible to physically open the passenger side door lock with the key alone. Also try this, press the key fob to your chin when activating it. Sounds crazy but sometimes using your body as an extension of the transmitter can assist the signal from the fob even if the battery is on its last legs. Don't knock it until you try it.
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