I removed my instrument cluster from my 1997 ford Taurus and now it won't shift out of first gear

SOURCE: how do i remove the instrument cluster on my 2000

Ok here is how you do it.

Tools Required:
Flashlight
Ratchet or spinner handle
7mm socket
8mm socket
Ford DIN radio removal keys
ZipLoc bags, cups or some other way to store bolts
T15 torx bit (column shift only)
Automotive trim removal tools (helpful but not necessary).

(optional for odometer adjustment)
T15 torx bit
very flat straight edge

ICP=integrated control panel, the radio and HVAC controls.

Obviously it's up to you, but taking your ratchet and a 7mm bit to the negative terminal on the battery may be a good idea considering you will be working with electronics. Make sure you have turned off all lights; keys are out of the ignition, before you disconnect the terminal.

First, take the 8mm socket and attack the two screws up under the steering column. They are gold/copper color and near the OBD-II port. You'll feel them if you don't want to bend down at see them. Once you remove them, give the kick panel a few tugs and it should give way. There are some clips holding it on as well. If you are stuck halfway, you might it useful to use the flashlight to look around to see what's holding it on.

Next, removing the radio involves using the two Ford DIN radio removal keys. Insert both of them into the slot and push them in until they are sticking out about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Then take your thumbs and push the inside side of each key outwards and start pulling...the ICP should pop right out. Keep pressure on pushing the keys in as well, so the radio doesn't get stuck. Column shifter people will find it ideal to fold out the console to rest the ICP surround and the ICP. You can also disconnect the cabling entirely if you'd rather. Floor shift models will find it ideal to put their keys in, turn the key to "RUN" and place the shifter in "1". Floor shift models can also go ahead and tilt the wheel all the way down as well.

Now you should see 5 screws holding on your ICP bezel. Take the 7mm socket and remove each of those 5 bolts. There are also two bolts of the same size behind the ashtray. Pull the ashtray out, push down on the tounge, and pull the ashtray out. Remove those 2 screws as well. I used a cup to dump all the screws into. A ZipLoc bag is a good idea as well. Grab around the ICP opening and give a good tug. Plastic clips embedded in the ICP surround and those screws are holding it in place. There is a clip holding the ICP surround next to the kick panel you previously removed, that can be difficult as well. *NOTE* You can also leave the screws in the ashtray attached and fold the ICP surround down, but it's best not to do this multiple times, you can only flex the metal tabs so much.

Next, remove the two 7mm bolts in the top of the instrument cluster surround. Now, column shift models (floor shift models have already done this), go ahead and put your key in the ignition, turn it to the "RUN" position and shift down into "1". Also tilt the wheel all the way down. There is one 7MM screw holding that bezel on to the top-left of the ICP surround area . It's right below the row of warning lamps on the far right of the instrument cluster. It holds the upper instrument cluster surround to the dashboard.

Now it's time to start pulling off the upper instrument cluster surround (the one with the vents, light switch, etc). A metal trim remover is not as ideal as it can put blemishes in your dash. Harbor Freight sells a kit of 6 plastic trim removal tools for about $5. They won't scratch and harm the soft upper dash as much. Don't be afraid to try griping at different angles, just requires a little pulling. Use the tool accordingly. Once you have it loosened out of the dash, you have one more step before you fully remove it.

Unfortunately, the G4 headlight switch knob does not pop off as easily as the G3. You can either stick a small, flathead screwdriver (wrapped in a cloth) in the slot between the dash and the bottom of the light switch. Then start prying away at it. OR (the easier method) Once you have popped out the upper dash trim, you should be able to push the headlight switch out through the opening. Disconnect the cables and set the headlight switch aside.

Now you can fully remove the upper dash trim. Start by pulling on the upper part that goes around the instrument cluster. Be warned there is a plastic wedge shapped clip in the middle. It will require bending of the plastic to make it pop out correctly. If you have a leather wrapped wheel, be careful not to scratch or cut the leather. The upper dash trim requires manipulating the shifter position (column shift models) and swiveling the trim around the steering column and pulling up on it towards the roof of the car. Eventually it will pop out.

Now you should have a good view of your instrument cluster. There are 4 7mm screws holding it in place. The cluster rests on two small knobs on the bottom as well. Go ahead and remove those bolts. There are two, 2" long connectors that go into the back of the cluster. They are at opposite ends near the top of the cluster. They have clips on the top of the connectors. Push down on it and uninstall them (not an easy task, but doable. If you are a floor shift model, continue on. Otherwise...if you are a column shift model, this is an ideal time to remove the PRNDD1 indicator. This requires the T15 torx bit. There are two small T15 on opposite ends of the bottom of the PRNDD1 indicator. Be careful and don't let the cable drop behind the dashboard.

Go ahead and remove the cluster. If you need to take your keys with you, regardless of shifter position, you can put the car in park and take your keys out.

----------Instrument cluster disassembly and odometer correction-----------
This would be a good time to check all the lightbulbs, make sure they are not blown. Flip the cluster over. Take some needle nose pliers, grasp one of the lighted areas (they are marked and color coded). The big black ones are the background lighting, the smaller ones are for the indicator/warning lamps. Twist the holder counter clockwise, then pull up. You should have a view of the light bulb.

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--------END Cluster/Odometer----------
Next, reattach the upper trim panel, inserting the clip in first. As with last time, play around with the shifter in various positions(column shift) and make sure you get that 2" trim piece BEHIND the shifter. Once you have it set in place, go ahead and insert the two screws holding the panel into the upper dash. Reconnect the headlight switch and push it back into the dash. Insert the screw below the instrument cluster. Next reattach the ICP trim surround. Insert those 5 screws. Reinsert the kick panel below and insert the two 8mm screws. Pop back in the the ICP (with the radio DIN tools removed). Congrats, should be all back in place AOK.

SOURCE: ford taurus will not shift from low gear

I have a 2001 ford taurus and i have transmission fluid leaking on ground when it runs. i was driving it today and it would not shift gears. Then when i got home i saw transmission fuild in the ground.

Ronny Bennett Sr.

• 6988 Answers
• Posted on Jan 26, 2010

SOURCE: 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE instrument cluster

It sounds like the connection to the cluster is not making good contact.

SOURCE: 1997 cadillac eldorado instrument cluster removal

remove ac vents with flat head screwdriver . thair should be a 7mm bolt in each vent holding tha dash pad on remove them. remove the trim going to head liner from the dash pad. use a 7mm to remove the bolts holding the cluser in place should be one each side and 3 across the back . disconnect the wiring harness and your done. also disconnect the negative batery cable when doing this

SOURCE: Ford Taurus Transmission Removal step by step

its quite a job, but hopefully this helps you, i have already replaced my gfs transmission on her 2000 taurus once and i need to do it again, ford really sucked on these transmissions. if you jack up the car high enough to give you about 21/2 feet of pllay under the car it would be good, take the tires off, take the calipers off, disc brakes, nut on axles, rack and pinion to the spindle, shocks, everything that will get in the way when you bring down the bottom frame. under the hood, i take out the intake air box and battery with battery plate so it gives you room to disconnect the shift cable and all connections that need to be disconnected. now remember when you bring down this frame its going to come down with motor and tranny, so you gotta either get an engine hoist or put some blocks under the mottor,take the starter off, take the torque converter cover off from the bottom its right in the middle of the motor and tranny 2 screws, there are 4 nuts honding the torque converter in there so you will probably need the help of someone to turn the main pulley as you look for those 4 nuts, take all bolts holding the transmission in place, take axles off, 2 big nuts for the rack and pinion, 2 nuts for motor mounts (if you are under the car they are holding onto the squared frame, use a engine hoist to hold on to the motor and use a jack under to hold the tranny, now this is the tricky part, you might want to use a second jack to hold the frame, as you take off the 4 main bolts for the bottom frame leave one so it dosent come crashing down, if you have everything secure, take the last bolt off as you have the jack holding it in the front in place, when you take it off then bring the jack down slowly making sure you got all bolts and connections, once that is down make sure all bolts and connections are disconnected from transmission, there are 2 metal hoses that go into the front of the transmission that are a pain to get out, squeeze the 2 little plastic ears that it has as you try to pull the tip out, play with it cause sometimes they are a pain, once you have that, double check everything and you can wiggle the tranny to make sure its loose off the motor if it is, take precaution and bring the jack down slow to bring your transmition down. hope it helps if you know some basics of mechanical.