Question about 1999 GMC Jimmy

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What and where is the servos - 1999 GMC Jimmy

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If you need professionally created servo motor, high quality & presize torque moment - rozum.com is the the company I can recommend, as have ordered from the several times.

Posted on Sep 06, 2018

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  • A servo is a mechanism, usually a motor of some sort, that drives another mechanism. On a passenger aeroplane, for example, the control surfaces are too difficult for the pilot to operate because there is so much wind pressure against them, so they use hydraulic servos to move the elevator, flaps etc.
  • On a car, the drive by wire throttle control is a servo, which is electronically controlled by the computer, depending on the throttle position under the driver's foot.
  • In effect, the power steering ram on a car is also a servo, which is powered by the p/s pump, and controlled by the valves in the steering column.
  • On a smaller scale, the air conditioner has servos that open and close the relevant air duct flaps when the dashboard controls are shifted to control the flow of air in the car. Please note that on older cars, and some new ones, these flaps are not controlled by servos but by cables.
  • The remote controlled central locking on a car has servos in the doors that open and close the door locks when the remote button is pressed. On some cars these door lock servos are small electric motors, on others they use vacuum operated pistons, also called servos.
  • Hope this answers your question!

Posted on Mar 02, 2015

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1 Answer

Break pedal goes hard sometimes and won't start


It sounds as if you may have a leak on the servo, this will make the brakes go hard as the air leaks out. This can also make it hard to start as the mixture is affected by the extra air getting in. Without servo assistance on brakes the pedal will be hard. To test start the engine if you can with your foot on the brake, if it starts and the pedal does not go down, the servo is not working. Obviously you need the engine running for this, but you can also check the airline going to the servo for holes, normally this goes from the inlet manifold to the servo. This image shows the servo with the hose leading out, you can follow it to the manifold, make sure the engine is not hot before touching anything. typical brake servo connection on car engine Google Search

Apr 16, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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I have 02 explorer canged od servo and intermed servo cap blew off ?


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https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=380199

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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer XLT. ... My plan was to replace both Overdrive and Intermediate servo's with a new pair that was ... Lifted truck off the ground. ... With both snap rings removed, I removed the servo caps. .... Elite Explorer members canchange the forum "styles" to eliminate most ads, including the ...Missing: intermed

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Jan 18, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2001 chrysler town and country. A\C heat Blowers will not work when controlled my front main pannel. It is a auto temp controlled system. The rear blower will work but no heat when controlled by the rear...


Hi,
This may be similar to what I just fixed on an '00 dodge:
http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=89711

Accessing the Integrated Diagnostic System:

Procedure for Automatic Temp Control (ATC) equipped vehicles:

With the engine ON and the vehicle stopped set the temp to 75*F. Next hold down the Floor, Mix and Defrost buttons until the ATC display begins to flash. While the display is flashing, the system will run it's tests and calibrations.

When the display stops flashing, the tests and calibrations are complete.

The ATC display can only display one error code at a time. Any stored codes can be scrolled through by pressing the Panel mode button once for each code. DO NOT press any other button or you will have to start the test over. Note the codes and refer to the list below to determine what system is malfunctioning.

List of Climate Control DTCs:
23: Blend door actuator feedback failure (bad servo)
24: Mode door actuator feedback failure (bad servo)
25: Ambient temp sensor failure
26: ATC In Car thermister failure (ATC only, bad ATC head or ATC head disconnected while battery is connected)
27: ATC in car sensor failure (ATC only)
31: Recirculation door actuator stalled (stuck door or bad servo)
32: Blend door actuator stall failure (stuck door or bad servo)
33: Mode door actuator stall failure (stuck door or bad servo)
34: Engine temperature message not received (ATC only, bad ATC head or bus failure)
35: Evaporator sensor failure
36: ATC control communication failure (bad ATC head or bus failure)
37: Blend door actuator output shorted to battery (bad servo or wiring fault)
38: Blend door actuator output shorted to ground (bad servo or wiring fault)
39: Mode door actuator output shorted to battery (bad servo or wiring fault)
40: Mode door actuator output shorted to ground (bad servo or wiring fault)
41: Recirculation door actuator output shorted to battery (bad servo or wiring fault)
42: Recirculation door actuator output shorted to ground (bad servo or wiring fault)
43: Common door shorted to battery (probable wiring fault, could be a servo that failed in an odd manner)
44: Common door shorted to ground (probable wiring fault, could be a servo that failed in an odd manner)
45: A/C control blend door input open or shorted with respect to ground (MTC only, wiring fault or bad servo)
46: A/C control blend door shorted to battery (MTC only, wiring fault or bad servo)
47: A/C switch failure (MTC only)
48: A/C control mode door input shorted to ground (MTC only, wiring fault or bad servo)
49: A/C control mode door input shorted to battery (MTC only, wiring fault or bad servo)
50: A/C control electric backlite (EBL) switch fails (MTC only)

51: System voltage too low for calibration!!! (check battery cables, battery and alternator!)

Dec 10, 2014 | 2001 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

Break pedal goes to floor but still has ablity to stop


Check that vacuum line to the servo or booster (as it is sometimes called) is attached with no holes in it if that looks good then its probably the servo. the servo is what your master cylinder bolts onto. this happened to mine, to replace simply unbolt master cyl. from serve the unbolt servo by reaching under dash just above brake pedal and pulling carpet down and remove the 2 or 3 nuts or bolts holding servo then pull servo from firewall and replace.

Feb 26, 2014 | 2005 Mercury Mariner Premier

1 Answer

I get a high pitched whine from the back of the brake servo when I release the foot brake, is it a vacuum/air leak and can it be fixed with the servo in place.


Hi
Sounds like the servo is shot !

Clamp off the vacuum pipe,to the servo with a brake hose clamp, and if noise disappears, you need a new servo unit.

A FixYa would be nice, Thank´s.....

Good Luck !

John.

Mar 07, 2009 | 2002 Volvo V70

1 Answer

Hard clutch pedal


You cannot bleed a servo. it runs using the vacuum from either inlet manifold, or a seperate vac pump.Ensure pump is working if fitted (end of camshaft) the pipes to the servo are not leaking by removing the pipe from servo and start veh. If there is good suction then its servo failure. hard pedals can also be caused by pressure plate fatigue in the clutch itself.

Dec 30, 2008 | 2002 Land Rover Freelander

1 Answer

1989 plymouth horizon check engine light on


Code 34 is set when the computer does not detect a voltage to and through the speed control servo. The cruise control computer is built into the PCM, which grounds two windings in the servo mechanism to regulate the vacuum applied to the servo diaphragm.
Note: All Chrysler corporation fuel-injected engines have the computer circuitry and software for the cruise control system installed, even if there is no cruise control installed on the vehicle. If there is no cruise control installed on the care or truck, the computer will interpret this as an open winding and set code 34.
First: turn the key ON, turn the cruise switch ON, and look for +12 Volts on the dark blue/red wire that connects to the servo mechanism. This circuit is fed:
  • from the ignition switch through to 10 (dark blue wire)
  • from fuse 10 to the steering column (white/red wire)
  • through the clock spring to the cruise control ON/OFF switch on the steering wheel (white/red wire)
  • back through the clockspring to joint connect "C" (yellow/red wire)
  • to the brake lamp switch under the dashboard (yellow/red wire)
  • through the firewall from the brake switch (dark blue/red wire)
  • to the servo (dark blue/red wire) A break anywhere in this path (broken wire, bad brake switch, loose connector, etc.) will interrupt the 12 volt supply to the servo and set a fault code. Work backwards until you locate the break.
Turn the key OFF. Unplug the the connector from the servo and measure the servo coil resistances.
  • measure the resistance between the servo pin that connects to the tan/red wire and the servo pin that connects to the dark blue/red wire.
  • measure the resistance between the servo pin that connects to the light green/red wire and the servo pin that connects to the dark blue/red wire. The resistance in both cases should be above 0 ohms and less than infinity.
Disconnect the battery(s). Unplug the 60 pin connector from the PCM and check for continuity between the pcm connector and the servo connector for the tan/red wire (cavity 33) and the light green/red wire (cavity 53).
If no wiring problems are found, check the PCM connectors for corrosion, and reconnect. Reconnect the battery and test the circuit again. If the problem still exists, the PCM is probably bad. NOTE: Personally, if the truck was out of warranty I would try to find for a used servo before buying a new PCM.

Oct 16, 2008 | 1990 Plymouth Horizon

1 Answer

Overdrive lockup


On the passenger side of the trans there are two servos.A servo is a steel piston with rubber lip seals bonded to the steel.The servo piston strokes in or out,applying or releasing a band.There are two servos,each hidden behind circular aluminum covers held into the case with snap rings.The rear servo actuates the 2nd gear band,and the front servo actuates the 4th gear,or O.D. band.The rubber lip seals on the servo pistons are soft and pliable when new,but with hot and cold cycles,and years of use,the rubber hardens and doesnt seal very well,causing loss of gears.It is very possible the servo has hardened,and that's why you are losing 4th.The other possible cause is electronic.This trans,the A4LD has 2 electrical solenoids inside the trans,4th gear solenoid and lockup solenoid.These are the ONLY electronics inside the trans,another possible problem area.I would remove the servos first for inspection,but before removal,take a scribe and scratch into the aluminum covers,"F" on the front one,and "R" on the rear one.These servos are different diameters,and MUST go back where they came out of.On the servo covers you will see cast into the covers 2 letters identifying the servo it requires....AB.....BB.....ZC...etc.These are examples,and yours will likely be AB and BB.If you DIY....use plenty of vaseline on the rubber lip seals,and the servo bores, to prevent cutting the new servo seals and O rings.Good luck.

Sep 09, 2008 | 1994 Ford Explorer Limited

1 Answer

AC temperature


Servo motor? I disagree. Actually, there are 3 servo motors in the vehicle; an air inlet servo, an air mix servo, and an air outlet servo. None of which control the temperature.
The AC temp is controlled by a thermister in the cooler box/eveporator unit under the dash.

Jul 10, 2008 | 2001 Toyota Tacoma

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