I need a video on how to change a water pump on a 2006 ford freestar van

Well, you are in for it........

Here is the procedure(and it ain't exactly fun).

First, remove the nuts holding the water pump pulley in place. It's easier to do this first with the Serpentine Belt on. Then remove then remove the serpentine belt. Would be nice if the pump pulley had the clearance to be removed, but sadly that isn't the case.

Second, you may need to remove the deck/cowel. Even if you don't it will make things easier because you will have more space. It's not a big job either way.

Third remove at least one of the cross bolts of the upper engine mount/roll restricter. This is the mount near the oil dipstick.

Fourth, lift the vehicle and safely support. I like to place jack stands under the cradle/frame. You will need some elevation as you will need to get under neath.

Fifth, have a good bucket, very large drip pan or such and place it under the drain **** of the radiator. Lower corner driver side. Uses a large allen type wrench(I forget size sorry).
Sixth, drain at least a gallon or fluid. But, since you are changing the pump you might as well try to get as much fluid and water out as possible.

Seventh (and know comes the fun), you will need to remove the bolts holding the engine mounts to the frame. Back one isn't too bad, but you may need a 2nd person to hold the nut/bolt in place on top(rear).
You may also need to loosen the side bolts holding the A/C in place.
Slide it (the A/C) forward. This should allow you to remove the bolts for the front engine mount.

Eight you will need to raise the engine up.
Two methods include placing a jack underneath engine and trans axle(make sure to put a thick piece of plywood in between the jack and drive train so you decrease the chance of damage)

Or, use an engine hoist and attach it to the towards the front of engine on the #1 and #4 exhaust ports of the exhaust manifold.

Ninth, make sure you closed the drain **** on the radiator,
Raise the engine, you only need to raise it just enough that you can remove the water pump pulley.

Tenth, place a large drip pan under the front of the engine to catch fluid that WILL SPILL when you remove the water pump.

Eleventh, for basic safety sake it's not a bad idea to lower the engine back to it's normal position while you change the pump.
You will however need to raise it up again when you are ready to re install the water pump pulley.

Twelfth, installing the pump is pretty straight forward.
Remove the pump, clean gasket sealer and sealant of the timing cover etc. New gasket, sealant, torque all the bolts and nuts down in sequence to the correct speck etc etc.


Thirteenth, since you opened up the system and it's largely empty at this point it isn't a bad idea to completely purge it(the system).
Mostly it means unhooking the hoses for the heater cores and draining them, there are methods out there for this largely using garden hoses and air compressors. Many failures of radiators, water pumps and heater cores stem from bad coolant.

Fourteenth, it is a very good idea to pressure test the system prior to
startup and final completion. These are essentially small pumps which attach to the cooling system and will stress test for leaks.
They attach to the overflow reservoir. If I remember correctly the operating pressure of the Monterey/Freestar is 18 or 19 PSI. So that's where you want to test at. Different people have different thresholds for how long to test for. But an hour or two should be enough to make sure there are no leaks anywhere.

Fifteenth, Refill fluid to correct level in the overflow tank. Although you can refill prior to pressure testing, it can be a waste if there is a leak and you have to drain everything again as you have to remove the pump a 2nd time time.

Sixteenth, tighten everything down to spec.
Engine mounts, A/C mounting/side bolts.
Etc etc etc, basically anything you removed or loosened.
It is a good idea to learn the torque specs of each bolt/nut
Especially the engine mounts

Seventeenth, reinstall the serpentine belt. and burp the system.

Eighteenth burping the system. After you have refilled everything you will need to get the air out. No real trick here. Remove the over flow canister cap, start the vehicle let it run until it reaches at least 180-190(enough for the thermostat to open) observe that the fluid level has gone down air is coming out(burping) and add fluid as needed.

Nineteenth, if you did remove the cowel/deck make sure to reinstall it.

Notes... special tools needed....

Decent jack stands at a absolute bare minimum 1.5 ton(but preferably at least two ton) Not only will the larger stands give you a better safety margin, they will also provide a greater lift.

Floor jack, at least a 1.5 ton but preferably 2 ton or greater as this will give you a much better safety margin and higher lift.

Torque wrench. I forget but you may actually need two
One a lighter duty/smaller one as I think the torque settings for the water pump might be in inch pounds vs foot pounds.
The other a medium or heavier duty for the engine mounts.

Impact sockets. You probably can get away with a basic chrome/metal type for the engine mounts it is a good idea to have something strong enough and make sure.

Wrenches, I think the pump pulley bolts are 10MM but could be as big as 12 MM or small as 8MM. You may also need a basic metric set to hold the nut or bolt on the engine mounts and or loosen the side bolts of the A/C.

It's not a bad idea to number each bolt/nut. Both on the timing cover and the individual nut/bolt. Not in the order you removed them but the torquing sequence. As there are different lengths this can make things much much easier when you put everything back together.

For what it's worth the main reason the engine must be raised is to remove the pump pulley. Once that is out it's a pretty straight forward job.

Got to autozone.com look up water pump thean hit video it well show you