Make sure the throw out bearing is fitted to the clutch fork and the bearing is the same length as the old one , move the fork by hand to make sure it engages with the clutch pressure plate , if the slave cylinder rod has a adjustment nut adjust the free play at the fork to 1/8 inch . provided the clutch driven plate an throw out bearing are fitted ok and the hydraulic system is ok , it should be ok
SOURCE: hydraulic clutch bleding 1999 dodge dakota
Please take a look at my suggestion here:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t709796-nissan_240sx_1997_se_model
SOURCE: Hydraulic clutch problems
i have a ktm 125 wich all ktms have hydraulic cluthcs and i have the same problem as all these fellas even when im riding it just sucks right down all the fluid reply to me on [email protected] ok thanks fellas
SOURCE: replaced slave cylinder 2004 ford ranger 4x4 still no pedal
I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.
SOURCE: 2002 Hyundai Accent won't go into gear.
Probably the arm that holds the rtelease bearing in the bell housing has slipped out of place. Get someone to depress the clutch while you check the arm is not loose. If the cylinders are working then its most likely the arm is disconected. If you are lucky you may get it put back in place by looking through the inspection hole but most likely you will have to seperate the engine and gearbox. Sorry I havent better news for you.
SOURCE: Clutch pedal does not disengage clutch
If the car hasn't been driven for a while it could be corrosion on the fork but I think that is unlikely. I think you are right about the release bearing being jammed in the spring. If the truck has quite high mileage, it probably means a clutch job.
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