Check the timing, improper would cause loss of power and relate to heating. make sure you do not have a brake dragging. Coils (spark generator) often quit when they get hot if going bad. sometimes you can feel if it is heating up excessively by touching it after it is on for awhile. check coolant, oil, and compression for leakage or mixing= head gasket problem.
SOURCE: Torque setting on Opel kadett gsi back wheel bearings
Not even sure who makes those cars but this should hopefully help you
http://vsmus-origin.skf.com/Files/Brochures_in_PDF/457377.pdf
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SOURCE: Does a heat sheild of some type go on the starter
Sounds like the starter is going bad.1) You can fabricate a shield yourself out of tin or thin sheet metal. Make sure you do not come in contact with the positive wire going to the starter when installing. 2) you can replace the starter -recommended- then add a shield to prolong the life of your new starter.
SOURCE: 1998 opel kadett 20is, car dont want to start,
please specify the actual year of this vehicle as the opel kadett was stopped in about 93 and the astra introduced ,in europe anyway so please state the exact year and build country as this can vary as well ,been caught out on this before with ford escort ,and a californian model that bears no resembelence to a europeon model of the same year
SOURCE: 94 Opel kadett 1.6 single injector. Petrol does
Check the injector circuit. Here's how injectors usually work: when key is on, they have live power available to them. Key on, the circuit is turned on, so power passes through a fuse to the injector on the power wire. (Check the fuse- it's under the hood, most likely.)
To make the injector "pulse" or spray fuel out, the engine computer will internally ground the circuit for a split second. The injector has a power wire to it from that fuse. Then the ground wire at the injector goes into the computer.
If you have a test light, you can test the circuit. First, clip a test light ground lead to negative battery post. With key on, and the injector connector unplugged, check for battery voltage on the power wire. One of the wires should have voltage and will light up the test light. Now, move your test light lead to the battery POSITIVE post. Have a helper be cranking the engine over while you probe the ground wire-the one that did not light up the test light. If the injector circuit ground is good, the test light will now be blinking. (You are putting voltage into the ground wire to the computer, to check if it is properly grounding the circuit. Every time the light blinks, the computer has grounded the circuit.)
If the circuit passes both tests (key on, steady test light on power wire; engine cranking, blinking light on ground wire), then the injector circuit is good. The injector should be pulsing when it is connected and the engine is cranking. If no gas is coming out of the injector, could be that fuel is blocked somewhere (filter?) from reaching the injector, or it could be a shorted injector. Someone with a volt-ohm meter should check the resistance across the injector terminals and compare with manufacturers' specifications. This will determine if the injector is bad.
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