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There is a sweet spot to turning the wheel to try to turn the key while the wheel is locked. It is not just wiggling it back and forth. You need to make sure that it is in the small window of movement between points where it stops. Just between the stop points, not on either one. Go slow and have some patience with it, it can take a couple of tries.
As for the issues of crank no start, it can be for a couple reasons. No spark and/or no fuel. It sounds like you have changed the distributor so checking the spark plugs and wires would be next in that case. Checking the plugs to make sure they don't have a lot of deposits on them and are not wet. Plug wires should have good sheaths on them and no burnt parts/pieces on the wire. Make sure they are plugged in tightly. Since you replaced the distributor, check to make sure the plugs are in the right order for the vehicle.
For the fuel side of it, if you can hear the fuel pump working, (a slight whirring sound), when you turn the key without starting the vehicle, check the fuel filter. If you cannot hear the fuel pump working, it may need to be replaced. You can try a simple but very temporary test to see if it is the pump by having someone tap on the bottom of the tank near the center with a rubber mallet, while you try to start the vehicle. If the vehicle fires up, you will know that the fuel pump is the culprit. If it still doesn't fire then you will know after testing all other things that it will need to be replaced.
Sounds like you'll need to check to see if it is getting spark first. To do this, take one of the spark plugs out, and while it's OUT of the vehicle, connect it to the proper spark plug wire from the car. Get an insulated pair of pliers or gloves and hold the spark tip close to a piece of metal while someone else cranks the motor over. Watch for a spark, if there is no spark there, try replacing the spark plugs first. If there's still no spark after replacing the plugs, then move on to replacing the distributor cap OR the coil packs(it has one or the other).
Sounds like carbon fouling. Easy fix is run an aggressive fuel injector cleaner as recommended by your local parts store through the gas tank. Also ensure that spark plug wire is firmly attached. If you took the plug out-you know it is a pain to get to it! A easy way to see is to start motor and idle, pull #6 wire off at distributor when it should be attached to plug and see if the idle changes. If it doesn't, the wire is not plugged on the spark plug or the rotor/distributor may be faulty.
Another more difficult task may be the removal and replacement of the fuel injectors them selves (or cleaning by a specialty shop). Good Luck!
When was last tune up? A healthy one. Plugs, wires, all filters especially FUEL filter and a good fuel system cleaning. I'd start there to give you a good "ground zero" reliability point.
You got a timing chain
Injector cleaner,in my opinion is a waste of money
PO306 could be a missing coil on cyl #6,still should start
PO325 Knock Sensor-most likely okey
Plugs,cap and rotor,will not prevent it from starting,it used to run with old parts, before the current problem!
I suggest you make sure you got the plug wires on correctly and number them with a ball point pen,on both ends.
Make a diagram of the dist cap wire locations.
Check out the TPS Sensor and make sure you have all intake ducting in place. You need the MAF Sensor in the system to run have it run
Have you checked fuel pressure? The pump may be going bad
Have you changed all the plugs to platinum and wires? My xterra was doing that and I changed all of them and now it runs great. Also, I changed the distribitor cap and rotor button.
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