Gauge Info. display reads service stability system.

Reasons the Temperature Gauge Reads High

If the temperature gauge reads high, it could mean your engine is overheating. Another reason your reading might be high is you could be losing coolant. A small leak or evaporation may cause your radiator to slowly lose coolant. A third reason your temperature gauge reads high could be because the thermostat is broken. If this is the case, you may need a coolant temperature switch replacement. The last reason the temperature gauge could read high is because of a water pump, or water pump gasket failure. If the water pump is malfunctioning, it may need to be replaced by a professional.

What to Do If Your Temperature Gauge is High

If your temperature gauge is reading high, it means your car is overheating. This is a very serious matter and you should never drive an overheating car. If your car starts to overheat, shut off the air conditioner and open the windows immediately. If this does not reduce the overheating, turn on the heater as high as it can go. If this still doesn't work, pull over on the side of the road, turn off the engine, open the hood carefully, and wait until the vehicle cools down. Never open the radiator cap while the engine is hot - coolant can spray and burn you. Once the vehicle has cooled, take the car to a mechanic right away so they can diagnose the problem. Cars are especially susceptible to overheating in hot climates, like what's common in cities like Los Angeles, Phoenix, Las Vegas, or Atlanta.
The temperature gauge is an important tool in your vehicle that shows the temperature of your engine's coolant. Contact YourMechanic and have your car inspected for overheating if it reads too high, as this can cause serious problems...

Reasons the Temperature Gauge Reads Cold

On most vehicles, the temperature gauge reads cold until the engine has run for a few minutes. If the temperature gauge still reads cold after the engine has warmed up, the gauge may simply be broken. Another reason the temperature gauge could read cold is if the thermostat in the vehicle stays open. With the thermostat stuck open, the engine can be overcooled, causing a low temperature reading. If this is the case, the thermostat may need to be replaced.

If he told you the fuel pump would correct the fuel guage, take the car back and make them fix it under warranty. I have been in the auto repair business for 21 years and if I mis-diagnose a car, I have to fix it for free to keep the customer happy.

Shocks/struts are key to keeping your ride in your vehicle as smooth as it can be with the bumps and dips in the road.

Is it plausible this is your problem? Yes.

Is this your problem? I don't know without looking at the vehicle itself.

But, if you notice your vehicle riding rough AND did not state this to the mechanic diagnosing your vehicle and they suggest replacement of the rear shocks, it doesn't seem someone is trying to pull the wool over your eyes in this situation.

The most common problem is the rear auto level shocks leaking and/or the pump is bad. What happens ids one or both of the shock leak air, and the pump runs overtime to keep the truck level, and burns up the pump. everything is expensive.

the check stabilization problem sounds like ur ride control meaning ur air shocks in rear leaking or faulty compressor. traction control is possiblt an erratic reading from one of ur 4 abs sensors/or rings,anyhow u need to get ur computer system scanned for a more accurate fault description and possibly fault codes which will b very important in solving ur issues. good luck

Your stability system works by a acuator on top of your shocks changing a valve inside your shocks,the connecter is on top of the shocks they can come loose our corrode from the salt in the snow,Clean or replace faulty one this will take care of your problem.

Your stability control uses the ABs wheel speed Sensors and the steering collumn sensor to know "when you need more stability". It sounds as if the front wheel speed sensor is sending bad info due to:
A) corrosion under the sensor causing erratic readings
B) front wheel bearing failing causing erratic readings
C) column sensor failing causing erratic readings

The GM dealer is the only place I know to have THOSE components tested. You can change any of these sensors yourself once you know which one it is. The "service stability" indicator is on because one of the sensors is not giving correct data, and the default mode is to disable the system. 

Good luck and hope this helps, 

Hello, The (service ps mesage) usually accurs w/ the power steering presure switch failes or wire chaffs against the rear manafold heat shield. the ps presure switch is located in the high side line and reacts w/ the ac system.(cuts compressor operation durring hard turns) its usuall in the rear twards the fire wall down by the rack and pinnion.the wires usually rub through on the rack heat shield and set the illuminated mesage.hope this helps. thanks

A ton of things could be wrong with your autoride system. If you have more than about 70k miles and haven't replaced the rear shocks ($500+ EACH!!! at the dealer), then they are probably leaking out. If they leak out, then the air compressor will always run. Eventually the air compressor/ride level sensor module (located on the driver side rear wheel on the inboard side of the frame, $300+ at the dealer) burns out because it's not designed to run at 100% duty cycles. After the air compressor burns out, the Electronic Stability Control module (in an XL, located inside the passenger side rear wheelwell trim, next to the third row seat, $300+ at the dealer) will probably short out. If your autoride isn't working and you don't get a "Service Stability" message, your ESC module is probably going bad.

It is possible to convert to regular shocks, but to keep the Stability Control (still has to control your brakes and front variable dampening shocks during "evasive" maneuvers), you have to insert some 1/4 watt resistors in to the ride height sensor connectors (can't remember what values, but I'm sure you can Google that) so that the Stability system doesn't throw a code. Not that it matters, but the message can get annoying if it's always there to nag...

My dealer quoted over $2500 to replace the entire system. I figure I can find the control modules from my local junkyard for $300, and the shocks from ebay for $350 for the pair. Be sure to match all of the GM part numbers, and keep an eye out for an upgraded Air Compressor module - GM released an update that is heavier duty and more water-resistant than the first design. I don't remember the part number, but my dealer included the upgrade with my quote.

Oh, and the only "easy" way to test the modules is with a Tech 2 tool. Otherwise it's lots of testing with a 12-volt source and a couple of multimeters and oscilliscopes...

Good luck!

I had the same problem...but I found out that the dealer had rotated incorrectly the tires.
Front and back are different sizes and if a rotation is performent front to rear, you may get a stability light warning.

I corrected my tires and the warning went a way.