Ford Ranger clutch slips at 2.5 rpm but no slip when towing. Engine will stall when brakes on at 2000 rpm in first gear. Clutch pedal is normal.

SOURCE: 2001 ford ranger clutch

have you check the slave cylinder to see if its moving when someone puts there foot on the clutch.
And check the adjustment on the master cylinder.

SOURCE: clutch suddenly not engaging until pedal completely released

Two things, first does it slip at all? If you put it in high gear and hammer it, does the engine rev up? If so, you may have a spring problem causing the clutch to not fully contact the pressure plate and will result in this problem.

Is the fluids in the master cylinder full? Do you have a leak? Bad pressure? I'd check those before going on to more difficult remedies.

Personally, by the way you're describing it, I'd say it's a spring. Especially since it's engaging and disengaging correctly. Maybe an adjuster somewhere came loose? I'm not sure with the Explorer, but I know my friends `00 F-150 had an adjuster snap causing a very similar problem but the clutch just wouldn't grab at all due to his problem.

SOURCE: replaced slave cylinder 2004 ford ranger 4x4 still no pedal

I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.

SOURCE: 2002 Ford Ranger Clutch Problems

It's not the clutch, it is the clutch slave cylinder. Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder and you will see that it will be empty. The problem is the trans has to be removed to replace it.

SOURCE: i have A 1998 FORD RANGER EXT. CAB W/ 6 CYL.- 4.0

Take the top off the master cyl and slowly very slow push in on the clutch and watch for any bubbles comming up.Replace the top and pump pressure and bleed at the master direct by using the lines for bleeders.