How to connect leisure battery to main battery using a pc100 cbe and will it interfere with the Mercedes electronics

limited info generic answer check and test battery -- most likely the key fob itself is failing you can have some one test fob or get another fob[s] and have programmed

By power converter I assume you mean an inverter, a means of electronically/electrically generating mains level electricity from a low voltage source?

Siting, connecting and supplying an inverter depends a great deal on the capacity of the inverter, the expected load and the expected duration the device will need to supply current for the load.

The inverter instruction manual is the best guide.
Even though modern inverters are much more efficient, when working hard they still get hot and excessive temperatures and electronics don't mix so siting a unit so cool air can freely circulate around it is important and the greater the capacity of the unit and the greater the load it is required to supply the more important cooling becomes.

Providing the inverter with current is another difficulty due to the very high current consumption of them. When supplying a 1kw load the inverter could be consuming as much as 120 amps at 12 volts and that is enough to discharge a fairly large leisure battery in an hour.
It certainly is a bad idea to fully discharge leisure batteries or even traction batteries and it is best to ensure there is sufficient battery capacity to supply the demand without more than half discharging them. A constant high current drain will also cause the batteries to heat and while a warm battery tends to perform better it also shortens battery life.
Clearly in addition the electrical connections and the connecting cables need to be substantial and in this matter overkill is the best policy. Short connecting cables can be rated for the maximum current drawn but heavier cables are recommended for lengths of more than a few yards, especially if the cable is routed where air doesn't freely circulate. As a rule of thumb the cable diameter should ideally be doubled each 10 yards of length.

Understanding Caravan and Tow CarUnderstanding Caravan and Tow CarIn the beginning.... The first and oldest electrical system on caravans, that was installed way back when most caravan's were no more than small garden sheds on wheels were the rear lights that replicated the rear lights of the towing vehicle, usually no more than two side lights and two brake lights.
Illumination for inside the caravan was provided by gas lights fed from a small gas cylinder usually clamped to the "A" frame of the caravan. It wasn't long before the lighting system needed to be upgraded, as direction indicators became mandatory on cars, additional wiring was needed to replicate indicators on the rear of the caravan. Skip forward a few years and a rear fog light became mandatory, so a further upgrade was made to the lighting electrical system to allow the rear fog light to be installed. The wiring for these lights was connected through a 7 pin plug to the car that is commonly known as a "12N" connection.Sometime in between the indicators and rear fog light changes, people decided they wanted to replace the gas lights inside the caravan with 12 volt lights that could be run from the car battery. People often used old car spotlights or other 12 volt lights that were found in cars of the time as interior lights and these soon drained the car battery, so an "upgrade" was to install a second battery in the caravan that could be used to provide power for lighting. These were usually old car batteries. It would be another few years before the dedicated "leisure battery" came along. Originally, you would have to take this battery out of the caravan and charge it at home using a standard car battery charger. Again, in a continual developing process, someone came up with the idea of being able to charge the second battery in the caravan from the tow car while driving along the road, or when on site, being able to run the engine of the car and using a long lead be able to plug the caravan into the car to charge the battery for the next nights use of the lights, So a second "supplemental" electrical system was born and the "12S" (S for supplemental as to differentiate it from the 12N or Normal) connection came into being.he 12 Volt systems
The 12 volt systems are split into two. The first, and as we have seen, the oldest is the caravan road lights, that is to say the lights that are required by law to have on all trailers. These lights consist of "tail" or "rear" lights - rear side lights (red), brake lights (red), direction indicator lights (orange), reversing lights (white) and fog lights (red). Due to the size of a caravan front marker lights (white) are required and from 2013 side marker lights (orange) on longer caravans.
12N & 12S Vehicle Wiring
These lights are connected to the car via a 7 pin "12N" type plug or by a more modern "continental" style 13 pin plug. The road lights are usually a complete system with all the supply and earth connections being separate from any other electrical system on the caravan. One of the most common faults with road lights is problems associated with the earth lead, but more of that later.
The only road lights that are not connected via the 12N connection are the caravan's reversing lights. The original 7 pin socket when it was developed was thought to have enough connections for everything anyone could ever want. Unfortunately as the years progressed, the number of "spare" connection on this plug diminished, to the point where there was no spare connection for the reversing lights. However, with the advent of the 12S, this was taken care of.The second 12 volt system is the supplemental system. This is designed so that when towing, you can charge the caravan's leisure battery, power the fridge and in some cases power an electrical brake system. The design of the supplemental system has to take into account a number of things:-
• It must be able to charge the caravan's leisure battery only when the car battery is fully charged and the engine is running.
• It must be able to power the caravan's fridge - but not allow the fridge to flatten the car battery if the engine is not running.
• It must be able to power the internal 12 volt electrical system of the caravan, but turn everything off when the engine is running.
• It must not interfere with the correct operation of the road lights of the caravan or towing vehicle.
OK, so lets look at the first one -
"It must be able to charge the caravan's leisure battery only when the car battery is fully charged and the engine is running"roblems with this type of connection. If the car battery is flat and you try to start the car, a heavy current will be drawn from the caravan's leisure battery and would cause the caravan wiring to over heat and possibly cause a fire. It would also damage the plug and socket connecting the caravan's wiring to the car, as they are not designed to take the high currents involved in starting a car engine. So how can we do this safely?

did it flip a breaker in the motorhome where you plug in ?

Bad connection at battery post and or bad cable connection , look for main fuse blown or disable link blown

Maybe CAN-H line connected to the electronic control unit of the rear of poor contact may cause vibration when the vehicle line communication is interrupted or irregular pulse signal is generated. Interfere with the normal communication CAN data bus. You can use a professional diagnostic tool for Mercedes-Benz.

That class should have 2 batteries. If you have a jump pack, you can connect it to the battery in the front and start the car. That auxiliary battery is for starting the car . The large battery in the rear is mainly for the electronics in the vehicle.

More likely than not, you have the famous broken solder joint(s) at the coil inside the FOB...if that is fine and all solder joints look fine , then you had best get MB, or a good Mercedes Independant garage, to check the EIS and make sure it sees the key

Don't do that, if you don't know how the jump start Mercedes Benz be careful it's so dangerous, if you do one simple wrong thing when you jump start it can damage your all electronic management system if in case you did the wrong thing you may have to spend $ xxxxxxx, if you don't know how to do that get help from someone who know how to do it, keep in mind don't mix up negative and positive cable when you jump the battey at least jest for a 000.1 second, that's enough for get damage, battery jump start point in engine compartment have a good look, has covered by read cap, open cap and you can see copper point in it fix the read battery cable (+ positive cable) on it then connect other end of same cable to the + terminal of battery again I would like to remind don't mix up, after connect + terminal please double check did the right, then connect - cable on to the Body ground connection near by positive point you can see another probe for ground it's located near the shockabsober top mount, after that connect other end of negative cable to the negative terminal of battery before connect it once again check other 3 connection are in right order

+ battery......................................................... + car

- battery.......................................................... - car

__________________________________________________________

you can also jump the battery to battery

+ battery jumper................................+ battery in the car
- battery jumper................................- battery in the car,

is this information helped you?

Check for a loose battery connection or corrosion around the battery posts. Many times a weak connection will supply enough power for lights, radio etc but not enough for the starter to engage. Best of luck !