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If you mean the radiator fan, the relay should be in the relay box in the engine compartment.
Check your owners manual for details.
The relay is grounded by the engine computer when the fan is needed.
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Check and see if your fans are kicking on. and if they are, are they staying on till the temperature of the engine drops. if the motors are worn they may not be spinning fast enough to dissipate the heat from the coolant. If they are not running check the fan relays located in the power distribution box in the engine compartment. If the relays are good you need to check the fan control temperature switch.
Sounds like the secondary engine / A/C cooling fan is not running.... Fine on highway is due to more airflow across the condenser...
Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's. Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor. Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!
You didn't mention the year or model so this will be generic. The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. One hot terminal is battery power, and the other is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only one terminal has power, then I would replace the thermostat sensor if not both.
Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's. Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor. Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!
You didn't mention the year or model so this will be generic. The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. One hot terminal is battery power, and the other is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only one terminal has power, then I would replace the thermostat sensor if not both.
Hope this is clear as mud! and helps! Please let me know what you find
Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's. Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor. Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!
You didn't mention the year or model so this will be generic. The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. One hot terminal is battery power, and the other is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only one terminal has power, then I would replace the thermostat sensor if not both.
Hope this is clear as mud! and helps! Please let me know what you find.
Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's. Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor. Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!
You didn't mention the year or model so this will be generic. The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. One hot terminal is battery power, and the other is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only one terminal has power, then I would replace the thermostat sensor if not both.
Hope this is clear as mud! and helps! Please let me know what you find.
About the only thing that you didn't list is the cooling fan. Are you sure that it's working properly? Drive the car until the engine starts to get hot. After awhile you should hear the cooling fan come on. After you have driven the car for a while, park it and open up the hood. If the upper radiator hose is almost too hot to touch, then check to see if the coolant fan is running. If it isn't, then turn the AC switch to "AC MAX". If the fan still doesn't come on, then a malfunction is indicated. Try to locate the fan control relay and swap it with another relay that has the same part number. Use a relay that will allow the engine to run. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature and see if the fan comes on after switching the AC switch to "AC MAX". If the fan now operates, then replace the relay. I hope this is helpful to you. Thank you for trying Fixya.com. If this does not solve your problem, then post a comment and I will respond by getting into more advanced diagnostics.
The cooling fan relay is located in the engine compartment just behing the left headlamp...not under the dash. There are cooling fan test connectors built into the wiring harness near the left strut tower. The cooling fan relay is controlled by the cooling fan temperature switch located on the rear of the engine. There are 3 temperature sending units on your car if it is equipped with a temperature gauge. If not, there are 2 sending units, One is for the computer and the other is for the fan relay.
The one for the cooling fan will have 2 wires, one Tan and Orange and the other Brown and White.
The cooling fans and cooling fan relay get their power from fusible links built into the wiring harness near the starter relay.
Replace the Temperature control sensor. Located at the engine near the thermostat housing. you can trace the wiring back from the fan to the sensor. If the fan still does not start. Try spining it by hand with the switch off. If you hear any noise at all.it may be the fan clutch. While you're at it check that wires to the fan aren't boken or pinched .
The master computer controls one or more relays which control the fans. Usually the fans will come on sequentially as the engine temperature rises, first one fan, then both...and this is accomplished by up to three relays.
Usually, this problem is the result of a faulty temperature sender, or computer, but you do not state if the sensor was tested or replaced.
If you are SURE the temperature sensor (it's not a switch) is good, and the computer is good, you probably have a faulty relay.
Check your manual for the location of these relays and tap on them vigorously with a screwdriver handle...you may get lucky and find the offender. Otherwise, get another relay and replace them one at a time till you find the bad one.
If none of this works, you will need a REAL automotive electrician to diagnose the problem. Incidentally, I would not pay for new master computer if it didn't fix the problem !
The Normal Temperature Range to the Fan Start is: A/C ON 181 F.
A/C OFF 199 F. When the Engine Reach this Temperature the Fan should start.
OK. Do this simple test.
1---- Start the engine, Desconnect the ECT Switch located on the Radiator,
See if the Fan come ON. If yes, if not go to step #2
Connect the ECT SWITCH and leave the car Running and with a Temperature gage.
See the temperature, if the Temperature go more than 199 F.
Turn the Engine OFF.
Disconnect the ECT sensor and check for Ground at the WHITE/BLACK wire.
If ground exist, Replace the ECT switch.
But if not. Check the wire for any damaged, and the ground at the Front Left Fender.
Repair as need.
2---- check the Fuse link RDI FAN . 30 amp.
Check the Fuse link CDS FAN 30 amp.
Replace if need.
And Return to step # 1.
Check the Radiator fan Relay, Rad fan relay 2 and 3. Replace if need.
Ok. I hope this help on your question.
I can give to you the WIRING DIAGRAM of the Fans, But I need a E-MAIL adress to do that.
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